Banjarmasin

Banjarmasin is the largest city in South Kalimantan and the historic capital of the Banjar Sultanate. With a population of over 700,000, it is a city defined by its rivers — the Martapura River and the Barito River weave through the urban fabric, supporting floating markets, stilt villages, and a waterborne way of life that has persisted for centuries. Nicknamed the "City of a Thousand Rivers," Banjarmasin is the cultural and economic heart of South Kalimantan.

The city's history stretches back to 1526, when Pangeran Samudera, the rightful heir of the Negara Daha kingdom, established his new capital here after converting to Islam and founding the Sultanate of Banjar. The sultanate controlled much of what is now Kalimantan during its golden age. After the fierce Banjar War against the Dutch, the palace was destroyed and the last princess captured, but the city's riverine character and Banjarese identity endured. Banjarmasin served as the capital of Dutch Borneo and later of South Kalimantan until the capital moved to Banjarbaru in 2022.

The climate is tropical with average temperatures of 24–34°C. The wet season runs November–April (heaviest December–February), while June–September is drier. The city is hot and humid year-round.

By Plane

Syamsudin Noor International Airport (BDJ) is 26 km from the city centre (about 30 minutes drive). It serves flights from Jakarta, Surabaya, Yogyakarta, Denpasar, Balikpapan, Pontianak, Makassar, and other Indonesian cities. Taxis from the airport to the city centre have a fixed rate of approximately Rp 120,000. Alternatively, walk 2 minutes to the main road outside the airport to catch a shared minibus to the Kilometre 6 terminal for Rp 15,000.

By Car / Road

The Trans-Kalimantan highway connects Banjarmasin with Palangka Raya (Central Kalimantan, 6 hours) and Balikpapan (East Kalimantan, 10–12 hours). Road conditions vary, with some sections in poor repair. Buses and shared minibuses operate from Banjarmasin's main terminals.

Angkot (minibuses) and "bamikro" (microbuses) criss-cross the city with fares from Rp 5,000. Metered taxis charge approximately Rp 50,000 for minimum fares. Becak (tricycle rickshaws) and ojek (motorbike taxis) are everywhere — negotiate before riding. Gojek and Grab ride-hailing apps are widely available and often cheaper than taxis. For the floating markets and canal trips, hire a klotok or jukung (motorised canoe) from the Siring riverfront.

• Floating Markets: The city's iconic attraction — Pasar Terapung Siring Banjarmasin operates from dawn until around 09:00. Farmers and traders in traditional boats sell fresh produce, creating a colourful spectacle. Take a klotok from the Siring Martapura River Park.

• Masjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin: Jl. Jendral Sudirman No.1 — the second-largest mosque in Indonesia, completed in 1981. Its name comes from a classical Islamic jurisprudence text by Syeikh Muhammad Arsyad Al-Banjary.

• Masjid Sultan Suriansyah: Kuin Utara — the oldest mosque in South Kalimantan (over 300 years old), built during the reign of Sultan Suriansyah (Pangeran Samudera). Contains the royal burial site.

• Museum Waja Sampai Ka Puting: Jl. Kampung Kenanga — a genuine Banjarese traditional house in Bubungan Tinggi style, preserved as a museum of local culture.

• Menara Pandang Banjarmasin (Observation Tower): Jl. Kapten Pierre Tendean — a four-storey tower with views over the Martapura River.

• Kampung Kraton: The historic palace district along Jl. Pangeran Samudera — remnants of the Banjar Sultanate.

• Pulau Kembang (Flower Island): 20 minutes by boat — a Chinese temple inhabited by long-tailed macaques (entrance Rp 150,000).

• Pulau Kaget: A sanctuary for proboscis monkeys (bekantan), the mascot fauna of South Kalimantan.

• Siring Martapura River Park: The promenade along the Martapura River with the Bekantan Statue — the departure point for floating market tours.

• Floating Market Tour: Rise early (05:00–06:00) for the best experience — hire a boat at Siring and cruise among the traders.

• Canal Trips: Explore Banjarmasin's canal network along the Kelayan River or Kuin River by traditional boat.

• Pasar Ahad (Sunday Market): Join locals walking or cycling to Pal Tujuh suburb on Sunday mornings for traditional breakfast foods like ketupat kandangan and apam.

• Proboscis Monkey Watching: Boat trips to Pulau Bakut and Pulau Kaget (around Rp 600,000 for a chartered boat — negotiable).

• Fishing: The Martapura River is popular for freshwater fishing — haruan, papuyu, and patin are common catches.

• Waterboom Alfin: Large outdoor swimming pool with slides in Kelayan Selatan.

• Ketupat Kandangan: Rice cakes served with spiced coconut milk gravy — a Banjarese classic.
• Soto Banjar: Fragrant chicken soup with vermicelli, egg, and lime — Banjarmasin's signature dish.
• Ikan Patin Kuning: Catfish in a tangy yellow turmeric soup — a local favourite.
• Apam: Traditional steamed cakes, popular at the Sunday market.
• Warung Lontong Orari: Known for banana leaf-wrapped rice dishes.
• RM Apung: A floating restaurant on the Martapura River — seafood and Banjarese cuisine with river views.
• Street Food: Jl. Semarang and the Siring area come alive at night with food stalls.

Tap water is not drinkable — bottled water is essential. Es teh manis (sweet iced tea) and es jeruk (iced orange juice) are the standard beverages. Air kelapa (coconut water) is sold fresh at the floating market. Alcohol is not widely available in this conservative Muslim-majority city.

• Budget: Hotel Bernam (Jl. Veteran, from Rp 150,000/night) or basic losmen near the main terminal.
• Mid-range: SAS Hotel Banjarmasin (Rp 300,000–500,000/night), Hotel G'Sign Banjarmasin (Rp 350,000–600,000/night).
• Upscale: Rattan Inn Banjarmasin (Rp 500,000–900,000/night) — the city's premier hotel with river views and pool.
• Boutique: Neo Hotel Banjarmasin (Rp 400,000–700,000/night) — modern and central.

• Floating Market: Fresh tropical fruit, traditional cakes, and local snacks directly from farmers' boats.
• Pasar Baru: Traditional market for Banjarese handicrafts, sasirangan fabrics, and dried fish.
• Sasirangan Textiles: South Kalimantan's traditional tie-dye fabric — available at shops along Jl. Ahmad Yani and at the floating market.
• Martapura Gemstones: Many jewellery shops in the city sell diamonds and gemstones from the Martapura mines.
• Pusat Oleh-Oleh: Souvenir centres stocking Banjarese specialities including amparan tatak (banana cake), wajik, and madu sariang (forest honey).

• Martapura: 40 km east — the diamond polishing and gemstone centre of Kalimantan.
• Banjarbaru: 35 km southeast — the new provincial capital with the Lambung Mangkurat Museum.
• Loksado: 150 km northeast — Dayak highlands with bamboo rafting, waterfalls, and traditional longhouses.
• Riam Kanan Dam: 60 km east — a reservoir popular for watersports and lakeside retreats.
• Nagara: 80 km east — traditional diamond polishing village.
• Amuntai: 120 km northeast — water buffalo races and the Candi Agung temple site.