Shekhawati

Shekhawati (Hindi: शेखावाटी) is a semi-arid historical region in northeastern Rajasthan, spread mainly across the Jhunjhunu, Sikar and Churu districts, named after the 15th-century Rajput chieftain Rao Shekha. It is celebrated above all as the "open-air art gallery of Rajasthan" — its towns are filled with hundreds of magnificently painted merchant mansions, or havelis, whose walls are covered inside and out with vivid frescoes.

These havelis were built between the 18th and early 20th centuries by the Marwari trading community, who grew immensely wealthy on the caravan routes between the ports of Gujarat and the interior. When the merchants migrated to the new commercial cities (Bombay, Calcutta), they left behind a region densely packed with frescoed mansions, painted in scenes ranging from Hindu mythology to trains, cars and European figures the artists had heard of but never seen. The main haveli towns include Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, Mahansar, Ramgarh, Dundlod and Jhunjhunu.

The best time to visit is October to March, with pleasant days and cool nights. Summers (April–June) are very hot; the monsoon (July–September) brings limited rain to this dry region.

By Plane

Shekhawati has no airport. The nearest is Jaipur International Airport (JAI), about 170 km from the central haveli towns (roughly 3.5 hours), with Delhi (DEL), about 240 km away, offering broader connections.

By Train

The region is served by several small stations on metre- and broad-gauge lines, including Jhunjhunu, Nawalgarh, Sikar and Churu, with connections to Jaipur, Delhi and Bikaner. Trains are slow but scenic; many travellers instead come by road. Book ahead via IRCTC in peak season.

By Car / Road

Shekhawati is reached by road from Jaipur and Delhi. From Jaipur the haveli towns are about 150–180 km (3–4 hours); from Delhi about 240 km (5 hours); from Bikaner about 170 km (3–3.5 hours). RSRTC and private buses connect the main towns (Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Jhunjhunu, Sikar, Fatehpur) with Jaipur, Bikaner and Delhi. A hired car is the best way to tour several towns.

The haveli towns are small and walkable, best explored on foot to see the painted mansions up close. To move between towns (Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, etc.), use shared jeeps, local buses or a hired car. Many heritage hotels arrange guided haveli walks with a local who can unlock and explain the frescoes. Autorickshaws handle short hops within larger towns; agree fares first.

• Mandawa — perhaps the most famous haveli town, with a fort-hotel and a dense cluster of frescoed mansions and painted gateways.

• Nawalgarh — known for some of the finest havelis, including the Poddar (Anandilal Poddar) Haveli Museum and Morarka Haveli.

• Fatehpur — home to the beautifully restored Nadine Le Prince Haveli, run as a cultural centre.

• Mahansar — famous for the gold-leaf frescoes of the Sone Chandi ki Haveli.

• Ramgarh, Dundlod and Jhunjhunu — further towns rich in painted havelis, chhatris and stepwells.

• Khetri and Lohargal — outlying sites with palaces and a pilgrimage tank.

• Take a guided haveli walk in Mandawa, Nawalgarh or Fatehpur to understand the frescoes.

• Visit the Poddar Haveli Museum in Nawalgarh.

• See the gold-leaf frescoes of the Sone Chandi ki Haveli in Mahansar.

• Take a camel-cart or jeep tour of the rural countryside and outlying towns.

• Photograph the painted gateways, chhatris and stepwells scattered through the region.

Food across Shekhawati is classic Rajasthani and largely vegetarian, served at heritage hotels and simple town eateries. Specialities include dal-baati-churma, gatte ki sabzi, ker sangri and local sweets. Recommendations:

• Heritage-hotel dining at Mandawa Castle, Roop Niwas Kothi (Nawalgarh) and similar for Rajasthani thalis (mid-range to upscale).
• Town dhabas and thali eateries in Nawalgarh, Mandawa and Jhunjhunu (budget).
• Local sweet shops for Rajasthani mithai. Vegetarian and Jain food is the norm.

Try masala chai, lassi and fresh juices at the town stalls and heritage hotels. Cafés are few, but hotel restaurants serve coffee and cold drinks. Rajasthan allows alcohol, and heritage hotels serve beer, wine and spirits where licensed; Mahansar is locally noted for a traditional herbal liquor (royal heritage brand). Use bottled or filtered water and avoid uncovered street ice.

• Budget: guesthouses and budget hotels in Nawalgarh, Mandawa and Fatehpur, from roughly ₹800–2,000.
• Mid-range: heritage havelis and small hotels such as Roop Niwas Kothi (Nawalgarh) and Hotel Shekhawati — roughly ₹2,500–6,000.
• Upscale / heritage: Castle Mandawa and Mandawa Haveli, and Vivaana Culture Hotel (restored havelis at Churi Ajitgarh) — typically ₹6,000 and up.

Shekhawati is known for tie-dye (bandhej) and block-printed textiles, brassware, leather mojari, and locally made handicrafts; some shops sell antique and reproduction items connected to the haveli trade. The bazaars of Nawalgarh, Mandawa and Fatehpur offer everyday goods at non-touristy prices. Bargaining is normal. The region's frescoes themselves are protected and not for sale, but painted souvenirs and crafts are widely available.

• Jaipur (~170 km, ~3.5 hr) — the Pink City.
• Bikaner (~170 km, ~3.5 hr) — Junagarh Fort and the Karni Mata temple.
• Mandawa (within the region) — the famous haveli town.
• Nagaur (~150 km, ~3 hr) — a historic fort town and cattle fair.
• Delhi (~240 km, ~5 hr) — the national capital.
• Khatu Shyam Ji (~80 km, ~1.5 hr) — a major pilgrimage temple in Sikar district.