Bikaner

Bikaner (Hindi: बीकानेर) is a desert city in northern Rajasthan, founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a Rathore prince and son of Rao Jodha of Jodhpur. Set on the old caravan routes across the Thar, it grew rich on trade and is today known for its formidable Junagarh Fort, its ornately carved sandstone havelis, its camel-breeding heritage and its namesake snack, Bikaneri bhujia.

The city retains a strong old-town character, with a walled core of narrow lanes, Jain temples and merchant mansions. Outside town are the National Research Centre on Camel, the temple of Karni Mata at Deshnoke (famous for its sacred rats), and, in winter, the colourful Bikaner Camel Festival.

The best time to visit is October to March, when the desert climate is comfortable. Summers (April–June) are very hot, frequently above 42°C, and the monsoon brings only light, sporadic rain.

By Plane

Nal Airport (BKB), about 13 km west of the city, is a small civil enclave with limited flights — typically to Delhi on select carriers; schedules change, so confirm before relying on it. Many travellers arrive instead by rail or road. Taxis reach town in 20–25 minutes.

By Train

Bikaner Junction (BKN) connects daily to Jaipur, Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and beyond. Overnight trains link Bikaner with Delhi and Jaipur. Book ahead via IRCTC in peak season; the station is centrally located.

By Car / Road

Bikaner sits on a network of national highways. From Jaipur it is about 335 km (6 hours); from Jodhpur about 250 km (4.5 hours); from Jaisalmer about 330 km (5.5 hours); from Delhi about 450 km (8 hours). RSRTC and private buses, including AC and sleeper services, connect Bikaner with Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Delhi.

Autorickshaws are the main way to get around town and out to nearby sights; agree fares before riding. Taxis can be hired by the day for excursions to Deshnoke and the camel farm. The old city and its bazaars are best explored on foot. App cabs are limited compared with Rajasthan's larger cities.

• Junagarh Fort — a magnificent, largely intact 16th-century fort (never conquered) with richly decorated palaces including Anup Mahal and Phool Mahal, and a museum; ticket around ₹50 (Indians) / ₹300 (foreigners).

• Karni Mata Temple, Deshnoke — about 30 km south, the famous "rat temple" where thousands of sacred rats (kabas) are revered.

• National Research Centre on Camel — a government camel-breeding and research farm 8 km out, with camel rides and a museum; best visited in the late afternoon.

• Lalgarh Palace — a red-sandstone Indo-Saracenic palace built around 1900, part museum and part heritage hotel.

• Jain Temples (Bhandasar & Sandeshwar) — finely decorated temples in the old town, Bhandasar known for its frescoes and gold-leaf work.

• Old City havelis — the Rampuria havelis are among the finest carved sandstone mansions in Rajasthan.

• Tour Junagarh Fort with a guide to appreciate its painted and gilded interiors.

• Visit the camel research centre for a camel ride and camel-milk products.

• Make the pilgrimage to the Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke.

• Attend the Bikaner Camel Festival (winter) for camel parades, races and folk performances.

• Wander the old city to see the Rampuria havelis and Jain temples.

Bikaner's cuisine is rich in snacks and sweets. Try Bikaneri bhujia, kachori, rasgulla and Rajasthani staples like dal-baati-churma and gatte ki sabzi. Recommendations:

• Chhotu Motu Joshi — a long-established eatery for thalis and Rajasthani fare (budget).
• Bhikharam Chandmal — a celebrated shop for bhujia, kachori and sweets (budget).
• Gallops near Junagarh Fort — Indian and continental dishes (mid-range).
• Laxmi Niwas Palace / Lalgarh Palace dining — heritage-hotel restaurants (upscale). Vegetarian and Jain food is plentiful.

Try masala chai, lassi and fresh juices, and look out for camel-milk products sold at the research centre. Cafés are fewer than in larger cities, but hotel restaurants serve coffee and cold drinks. Rajasthan allows alcohol, and heritage hotels and some restaurants serve beer, wine and spirits. Use bottled or filtered water in this desert region.

• Budget: Vinayak Guest House and several family-run guesthouses offer rooms from roughly ₹600–1,500.
• Mid-range: Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, a converted Rampuria haveli in the old city, and Hotel Harasar Haveli — roughly ₹2,500–6,000.
• Upscale / heritage: Laxmi Niwas Palace and Lallgarh Palace, the grand early-20th-century royal residences turned hotels — typically ₹8,000 to ₹20,000 and up.

Bikaner is famous above all for its namkeen and sweets — Bikaneri bhujia, rasgulla and other snacks make popular edible souvenirs. Also look for Usta gold-leaf and miniature work, camel-leather goods, woollen and tie-dye textiles and handicrafts. The bazaars of the old city, especially around Kote Gate and Station Road, are the main shopping areas. Bargaining is the norm in the markets.

• Deshnoke (~30 km, ~45 min) — the Karni Mata "rat temple."
• Jaisalmer (~330 km, ~5.5 hr) — the Golden City and the Thar Desert.
• Jodhpur (~250 km, ~4.5 hr) — the Blue City and Mehrangarh Fort.
• Jaipur (~335 km, ~6 hr) — the Pink City and the road back to the Golden Triangle.
• Gajner (~32 km, ~45 min) — a former royal hunting lodge and lake palace.
• Shekhawati (toward Nawalgarh/Mandawa, ~3–4 hr) — the painted-haveli region.