Horsley Hills

Horsley Hills is a small, low-key hill station in the Rayalaseema region of Andhra Pradesh, perched in the Eastern Ghats near the town of Madanapalle. It is one of very few hill resorts in the state, and its appeal is exactly its quietness — beautiful mountain views, wooded slopes, cool air and not much to do but relax. The summit area is essentially a cluster of AP Tourism property, a small old zoo, gardens and viewpoints, surrounded by forested hills rich in plants and animals.

This is a place for slow days rather than packed itineraries. Visitors come to walk, take in the long views over the plains — almost like flying, as locals put it — and escape the heat of the surrounding low country. The hill stays pleasantly cool for much of the year, and the best time to visit is the cooler, drier months from roughly October to February; the monsoon brings mist and rain. One practical warning: couples and those seeking quiet should avoid the New Year period, when the hill fills with rowdy holiday crowds.

The nearest town of any size is Madanapalle, about half an hour downhill, a modest place with supermarkets, internet cafés and shops selling Indian garments — handy for stocking up and a pleasant stroll in itself.

By Train

For travellers coming from beyond Bangalore, rail is an option. The nearest railhead is Madanapalle Road, about 27 km away, served by the Dharmavaram–Tirupati passenger train and the biweekly 12732 Secunderabad–Tirupati Express. The hill is also reachable via the well-connected junctions of Tirupati and Dharmavaram (on the Bangalore–Guntakal route), with onward road travel via Madanapalle.

By Car / Road

Horsley Hills is about 165 km from Bangalore and 274 km from Chennai, and driving is the usual way in. From Chennai, take NH4 via Wallajah and Chittoor, continue to Palamaner, turn onto NH219 to Madanapalle, then NH205 — Horsley Hills lies about 16 km on. From Bangalore, several routes exist; the shortest and best runs via Hoskote, Chintamani, Gownipally and B. Kothakota. A scenic alternative on good roads goes via Hoskote, Kolar, Mulbagal, Palamaner, Punganur and Madanapalle (around 195 km). Avoid the route Google Maps suggests through Chikkaballapur — it uses narrow village lanes unsuitable for cars. Buses run to Madanapalle, from where autorickshaws climb the hill.

Horsley Hills is tiny and the preferred way to get around the hilltop is simply to walk — between the resort, the gardens, the viewpoints and the old zoo, everything is within an easy stroll, and short hikes up nearby hills are part of the appeal. There is no local bus or taxi network on the hill itself. To reach Madanapalle, about half an hour downhill, take an autorickshaw or a bus. Bring what you need with you, as services on the summit are minimal.

• Fused twin trees — a rare sight of two separate trees whose trunks have grown fused together, in the park opposite the Punnami / Haritha resort.
• Giant old Eucalyptus tree — in the same garden, an unusually massive old eucalyptus with a huge trunk.
• Viewpoints over the plains — several lookout points, including one behind the Governor's Bungalow, give long sweeping views over the lowlands; especially fine in the soft light of morning and evening.
• Old zoo — a small, dated zoo next to the resort, home to assorted animals; visitors are challenged to spot the crocodile.
• Forested surroundings — the hills around the summit are full of plants and wildlife, pleasant to wander through.

There is deliberately little to "do" at Horsley Hills beyond relaxing — that is the point of the place.

• Walk and gentle hike — stroll the hilltop and take short climbs up the surrounding hills for views.
• Sit at the viewpoints — spend time at the lookouts over the plains, the hill's signature experience.
• Use the resort facilities — the AP Tourism resort has a swimming pool and gymnasium, somewhat oversized for so small a place.
• Visit the old zoo and gardens for an easy hour with the family.
• Day-trip to Madanapalle — shop, walk the small-town streets and have a meal.

Dining options on Horsley Hills are very limited. The main place to eat is the AP Tourism resort restaurant, where the food is unremarkable, though the idlis at breakfast are decent. The memorable alternative is to buy your own ingredients down in Madanapalle and ask for Devdas at the small Hotel Horsley, the little place next to the resort, to cook them for you — it costs little and, by all accounts, tastes wonderful; he is an excellent cook. Beyond these, eateries are in Madanapalle. With so few options, plan meals ahead.

The AP Tourism resort has a bar where chilled beer is available, along with brandy and whiskey — the main place for a drink on the hill. There is no café culture here; tea and soft drinks come from the resort. As elsewhere in India, drink bottled or filtered water rather than tap water, and carry a bottle with you on walks.

Accommodation on Horsley Hills is essentially all government-run, and it is wise to book ahead, especially on long weekends and holidays.

• Budget: AP Forest Guest Houses — contact the forest ranger office at Madanapalle before heading up; cheaper and, by local accounts, better value than the tourism resort.
• Mid-range: Haritha Resort, Horsley Hills Road (phone +91 99516 11040), owned by AP Tourism — the main resort, with rooms also available at the Governor's Bungalow, plus a swimming pool, a gymnasium and a fine viewpoint behind the bungalow. You can chance a walk-in outside peak periods, but it is not recommended on holidays.

There is essentially no shopping on the hill itself. The place to buy anything is Madanapalle, about half an hour downhill — a modest town with supermarkets, internet cafés and many small shops, good for picking up a salwar kameez or sari, Indian garments and everyday supplies. Travellers also buy fresh ingredients in Madanapalle to be cooked for them back at the hill. Bargaining is normal in the town's smaller shops; fixed prices apply at supermarkets.

• Madanapalle (about 30 min / ~16 km) — the nearest town, good for shopping, supermarkets and a meal.
• Tirupati (reachable by bus from Madanapalle) — India's great pilgrimage city and the Venkateswara temple; the route passes Arogyavaram, a village with a historic tuberculosis sanatorium.
• Bangalore (about 165 km, under 3 hr) — the big city for shopping, dining and nightlife, and a rail hub for the rest of southern India.
• Chennai (about 274 km) — Tamil Nadu's coastal capital, for those continuing east.
• Dharmavaram — a railway junction on the Bangalore–Guntakal route, also known for silk saris.