Symi

Symi (Greek: Σύμη, also frequently spelled Simi) is a small island of roughly 83 km² in the Dodecanese chain, lying about 41 km north of Rhodes and just off the southwestern coast of Turkey. Its permanent population hovers around 2,500, swelling tenfold in summer. The island's fortune was built on sponge diving and boat-building in the 18th and 19th centuries — Symiote crews sailed as far as North Africa and the Levant — and the wealth from that trade produced one of the most photogenic harbour towns in the Aegean: tiered rows of pastel-painted Neo-classical mansions climbing the hillside above Yialos (the harbour). The old town was designated a protected heritage site in 1971.

The island has no airport, no natural springs, and very little flat land. Its appeal is architectural, maritime, and restorative rather than beach-and-party. Symi attracts walkers, divers, yacht sailors, and travellers looking for a quieter, more characterful alternative to Rhodes. The landscape is dry and rugged — limestone hills, terraced olive groves, abandoned monasteries — and the sea is crystalline. Spring wildflowers (March–May) soften the terrain; by August the hillsides are parched and golden.

The island's two main settlements are Yialos (the lower harbour town, where ferries dock) and Chorio (the upper town, once the medieval kastro, now a maze of narrow lanes and stone houses). They are connected by the Kali Strata — a monumental staircase of roughly 500 steps. Smaller coastal hamlets include Pedi (a quiet beach cove south-east of Yialos), Nimborio (a cluster of pebble coves north of the harbour), and Panormitis (site of the island's great monastery at the southern tip).

By Plane

Symi has no airport. The nearest is Diagoras Airport (RHO) on Rhodes, 70 km south. Diagoras receives year-round domestic flights from Athens (ATH, ~1 hour, multiple daily on Aegean Airlines, Olympic Air, Sky Express) and seasonal international charters from across Europe (May–October). From Diagoras, take a taxi or the airport bus (KTEL, ~€5) to Rhodes town harbour (Mandraki or the new commercial port), then continue to Symi by ferry (see below). The total airport-to-Yialos journey takes roughly 2–3 hours depending on connections.

By Car / Road

The primary gateway is Rhodes town harbour. Dodekanisos Seaways runs fast catamarans (high-speed ferries) to Symi roughly 3–5 times daily in summer, taking about 45–55 minutes; Blue Star Ferries operates a conventional ferry (car-capable) once or twice daily, taking about 1.5–2 hours. One-way passenger fares are approximately €10–12 on the catamaran and €8–10 on the conventional ferry (as of 2025; check dodekanisos-seaways.gr or bluestarferries.com). In peak season, early-morning catamarans fill with day-trippers from Rhodes. There are also less frequent services linking Symi to Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Lipsi, Patmos, and other Dodecanese islands. In summer, excursion boats also run from Marmaris (Turkey) — a passport is required.

Symi is small enough that most visitors walk. Yialos and Chorio are entirely walkable (though the Kali Strata steps are steep and numerous). The island has a single public bus (a minibuses run by KTEL) that loops between Yialos, Chorio, and Pedi roughly once per hour during daytime and into the evening — tickets cost about €2. Three daily buses continue south to Panormitis monastery (check the schedule posted at the bus stop on the south side of the harbour, as times vary by season).

Taxis are scarce — typically one or two on the whole island. Agree on a fare before setting off; a ride from Yialos to Pedi runs about €8–10. Water taxis are a practical way to reach remote beaches: small boats depart from Yialos harbour throughout the morning for beaches such as Nos, Agios Georgios, Nanou, and Marathounda (return fares €5–10 depending on distance). Some beaches are accessible only by boat or on foot via rough dirt tracks.

Hiring a small motorboat (no licence needed for engines up to 30 HP) is a popular way to explore the coastline independently; daily rental runs €60–90 in season, available from operators along the harbour. There is no car rental office on Symi in the usual sense, though a handful of local operators rent small vehicles — most visitors have no need for one.

• Yialos Harbour — The island's showpiece. A horseshoe-shaped bay lined with three-storey Neo-classical mansions in ochre, terracotta, blue, and cream. Best appreciated from the water or from the Kali Strata steps looking down. Free, always accessible.

• The Kali Strata — A grand stone staircase of roughly 500 steps connecting Yialos to Chorio, built in the mid-19th century. Lined with carved doorways, iron balconies, and potted bougainvillea. The climb rewards with panoramic harbour views. Free, best early morning or late afternoon.

• Chorio (Upper Town) — The medieval settlement above the harbour. Narrow stepped alleyways, crumbling kastro walls, the ruins of a Knights of St John castle, and the Archaeological and Folklore Museum (small but worthwhile; check locally for seasonal opening hours, admission ~€3).

• Panormitis Monastery (Monastery of Taxiarchis Michael) — A large 18th-century monastery on the island's southern shore, the most important religious site in the Dodecanese after Patmos. Its baroque bell tower, silver icon of the Archangel Michael, and ornate frescoes draw pilgrims year-round. There is a small bakery selling loukoumades (honey dumplings) and the monastery guesthouse offers basic rooms for a donation. Reachable by bus (3 times daily), car, or boat excursion from Yialos. Free entry; modest dress required.

• Nimborio Beach and Byzantine ruins — A cluster of pebble coves just north of Yialos, with the remains of early Christian basilicas and a partially submerged Roman mosaic nearby. A pleasant 15-minute walk from the harbour.

• The War Memorial and Windmills — Hilltop windmills above Chorio (some restored, some ruined) and a memorial to the island's fallen, with sweeping views over the harbour toward Rhodes on clear days.

• Toli Bay and Agios Vasilios — On the west coast, accessible by boat or a long hike. Crystal-clear water, sea caves, and near-total solitude.

• Walk the island trails — Symi has a network of old mule paths, cobbled kalderimia, and marked trails connecting villages, monasteries, and beaches. The Panormitis-to-Yialos coastal walk (about 3 hours) and the hike to the ruined monastery of Agia Marina (1.5 hours from Chorio) are highlights. Spring and autumn are best; summer heat makes midday hiking inadvisable. Bring water — there are no sources on the trails.

• Snorkelling and diving — The waters around Symi are exceptionally clear (visibility often 30 m+), with rocky reefs, underwater caves, and abundant marine life. A dive centre in Yialos offers PADI courses and guided dives (from around €60 for a single fun dive). Snorkelling is rewarding off any rocky headland — Nos and Agios Georgios beaches are good starting points.

• Boat excursions — Half-day and full-day boat trips circle the island, stopping at remote beaches and sea caves. Some operators offer trips to the uninhabited islet of Sesklia or across to the Turkish coast. Full-day excursions with lunch cost roughly €30–45 per person.

• Explore abandoned monasteries — The island's interior hides dozens of ruined or semi-abandoned monasteries and chapels, accessible on foot. The Monastery of the Saviour (Metamorphosis tou Sotiros) near the island's centre is one of the most atmospheric.

• The Symi Festival — Running through July and August (and sometimes into September), this annual arts festival stages free concerts, theatre performances, art exhibitions, and film screenings in the harbour and other open-air venues. The programme is usually published locally in late June.

• Day trip to Rhodes — The fast catamaran makes Rhodes Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) an easy day trip — 45 minutes each way. Go early to avoid the midday crush.

Symi's food culture is anchored in the sea. The island is famous for Symiote shrimp (garides Symiaka) — tiny pink fried shrimp, eaten whole, shell and all, crisp and sweet — served in virtually every taverna. Grilled octopus, stuffed vine leaves (dolmadakia), and fresh fish by the kilo are staples. The cuisine leans on the Dodecanese tradition: sun-dried tomatoes, capers, cumin-spiced sausages, and goat stew. Vegetarian options are solid — Greek salad, fava (split-pea purée), melitzanosalata (aubergine dip), and local cheeses appear everywhere — though strictly vegan or halal options are limited.

Budget: Manos Fish Taverna on the harbour does a filling plate of Symiote shrimp and salad for around €8–12. Taverna Tholos in Chorio serves simple home-cooked Greek dishes at similar prices.

Mid-range: Odyssia (harbour front) offers well-prepared seafood and meze with harbour views; mains €12–18. Taverna Neon on Pedi beach is relaxed and family-run, with grilled fish and local wine; mains €10–16.

Upscale: The Secret Garden (Chorio) sets tables in a candlelit courtyard with a seasonal menu emphasising local ingredients; mains €18–28. For a splurge, some of the restored mansion hotels (such as the Old Markets) offer set dinner menus paired with Greek wines.

A standard dinner for two with wine at a mid-range taverna runs about €40–60.

Symi's nightlife is low-key. The harbour has a string of relaxed bars — Harbour Bar, The Ship Inn (a favourite with visiting yacht crews), and Bar 1890 — where cocktails, cold Mythos and Fix beers (€3–5), and local wines flow until midnight or later. Chorio has a handful of more atmospheric spots tucked into alleyways, sometimes with live acoustic music. Greek coffee (elliniko kafes) and freddo cappuccino are available in every harbour café (€2–3.50). Local wine is drinkable but rarely exceptional; most tavernas also stock bottled wines from Rhodes and the Peloponnese. Tap water on Symi is desalinated or tankered — it is safe but tastes flat; bottled water (€0.50–1 per 500 ml) is the norm.

Budget: Pantelis Hotel (Yialos, near the harbour) offers simple, clean rooms from around €50–70 in shoulder season. Iapetos Village (Chorio) is a cluster of stone studios with shared terraces, from roughly €45–65.

Mid-range: The Captain's House (Yialos) is a restored Neo-classical mansion with harbour-view balconies, rooms from €80–130 depending on season. Aliki Hotel (Yialos waterfront) has well-appointed rooms with sea views; €90–150.

Upscale / heritage: The Old Markets (Chorio) is a boutique hotel converted from the 19th-century market hall, with individually designed suites, a pool, and fine dining; from roughly €200–350. Niriides Hotel & Apartments (Pedi, right on the beach) offers polished self-catering suites with sea access; €150–280.

Budget €30–40 for a basic guesthouse in the off-season, or €120–250 for a mid-range harbour room in July–August. Booking well ahead is essential for peak season and Greek holiday weekends. Kalodoukas Holidays (a long-established local agency, tel +30 22460 71077, [email protected]) can assist with accommodation bookings, boat rentals, and excursions.

Symi's shops cluster around the harbour front and the Kali Strata. The island's signature souvenir is the natural sponge — once the basis of the local economy — sold in every gift shop (authentic Mediterranean sponges cost €5–25 depending on size and quality; cheap cellulose imitations are common, so buy from a reputable shop). Other local products include Symiote honey (thyme-infused, available at small groceries), hand-embroidered linens, locally produced olive oil, and artisanal soaps. There is no large market or shopping district; the harbourfront shops and a few mini-markets in Chorio cover daily essentials. Prices are generally higher than on the Greek mainland due to transport costs — budget accordingly.

• Rhodes — The Dodecanese capital, 45 min by fast catamaran. A UNESCO World Heritage medieval Old Town, the Palace of the Grand Master, Lindos Acropolis, and excellent nightlife. Ferries run multiple times daily.
• Tilos — A quiet, mountainous island 1.5 hours south by ferry. Hiking, abandoned villages, and a nature reserve with rare birdlife. Half the size of Symi and even less touristed.
• Halki (Chalki) — A tiny, tranquil island 40 min by boat from Symi. One village (Emboreio), colourful harbourfront houses, and uncrowded beaches. A favourite day trip.
• Nisyros — A volcanic island 2 hours south by ferry, with an accessible active caldera (steam vents and sulphur deposits) and a charming hilltop village (Mandraki).
• Kos — A larger Dodecanese island 3 hours south by ferry, with ancient ruins (Asklepion), lively nightlife, and bike-friendly flat terrain.
• Marmaris (Turkey) — 30 km across the strait; summer excursion boats make the crossing in under an hour. Passport required. A larger resort town with a bazaar, castle, and marina.