Upala

Upala is a small, remote town in the far northern reaches of Alajuela Province, close to the Nicaraguan border. Located at about 50 metres elevation in the tropical lowlands, Upala has a hot, humid climate (28–35 °C) and receives heavy rainfall, especially from May to November. The town serves as the administrative centre for the Upala canton and is a gateway to the Río Celeste, Tenorio Volcano, and the wetlands of Caño Negro.

The economy is based on agriculture — pineapple, palmito (heart of palm), rice, and cattle ranching. Upala has an authentic, frontier-town feel, far from the tourist trail. The town centre is small, with a central park, a church, and basic commercial services. Despite its remoteness, Upala has become increasingly popular as a base for visiting the stunning turquoise Río Celeste.

By Plane

Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO IATA) is approximately 200 km south (3.5–4 hours by car). There is no commercial airstrip near Upala.

By Car / Road

From San José, the most common route is via Route 1 north to Route 4 through Ciudad Quesada, then Route 6 to Upala — approximately 200 km, 3.5–4 hours. The roads are paved but can be affected by flooding during heavy rains. Buses from San José (Transportes Upala company) run several times daily (₡3,500, 4–5 hours).

Upala's town centre is walkable. For reaching Río Celeste, Caño Negro, and surrounding areas, a 4x4 vehicle is recommended, especially during the rainy season when roads can deteriorate. Local buses and colectivos (shared taxis) serve surrounding communities.

• Central Park — The modest town plaza with its church and surrounding shops.

• Río Celeste (45 min northwest) — A stunning turquoise river inside Tenorio Volcano National Park, famous for its colour caused by volcanic minerals. One of Costa Rica's most photographed natural wonders.

• Tenorio Volcano National Park — Home to the Río Celeste waterfall, the "Teñidero" (where two rivers merge to create the blue colour), and hot springs. Entry: US$12 foreigners.

• Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge (1 hour east) — A vast wetland area teeming with wildlife including caimans, monkeys, and hundreds of bird species.

• Hike to Río Celeste — A 3-km trail through tropical forest to the turquoise waterfall and the Teñidero. Allow 3–4 hours round trip. Best visited early morning.

• Caño Negro boat tour — Guided boat tours through the wetlands to spot wildlife. From US$35–50.

• Hot springs near Tenorio — Several natural hot springs in the volcanic area, less crowded and more affordable than Arenal's.

• Birdwatching — The lowland forests and wetlands host an extraordinary diversity of bird species.

• Soda Upala — Traditional casados and Tico food at ₡2,000–3,000.
• Soda Río Celeste — Simple restaurant near the park entrance serving casados and refreshments.
• Roadside sodas — Several family-run restaurants along the main roads serve fresh, affordable meals.

Cold beers (Imperial, Pilsen) are welcome in the tropical heat. Fresh tropical juices are widely available. Tap water is generally safe in Upala town.

Budget:

• Hotel Upala — Basic rooms in the town centre. From US$20–25.
• Cabinas near Río Celeste — Simple cabins and guesthouses near the park entrance. From US$25–35.

Mid-range:

• Celeste Mountain Lodge — Comfortable eco-lodge near Tenorio with river views and guided tours. From US$80.
• Catarata Río Celeste Lodge — Mid-range property close to the waterfall trailhead. From US$60.

Basic supplies are available in town. There are no significant souvenir shops — Río Celeste area has a few small vendors selling drinks and snacks.

• Tenorio Volcano National Park / Río Celeste (45 min northwest) — The turquoise river is the region's star attraction.
• Caño Negro (1 hour east) — Wetland wildlife refuge best visited by boat.
• Ciudad Quesada / San Carlos (2 hours south) — The regional hub with more services and access to Arenal.
• Arenal / La Fortuna (2.5 hours southeast) — Volcano, hot springs, and adventure activities.
• Los Chiles (1 hour northeast) — Border town on the San Juan River with boat trips to Nicaragua.