Puerto Suarez

Puerto Suárez is a hot, low-lying border town in the far east of Bolivia's Santa Cruz department, sitting on the edge of the Bolivian Pantanal beside Laguna Cáceres. It is above all a gateway: just across the frontier (reached via the twin town of Puerto Quijarro and the Arroyo Concepción crossing) lies the Brazilian city of Corumbá in Mato Grosso do Sul, and the town funnels a steady stream of travellers, traders and truckers between the two countries. For most visitors it is a transit point on the long overland route between Santa Cruz de la Sierra and Brazil rather than a destination in its own right.

What gives the area its appeal is the surrounding nature. Although only about 10% of the vast Pantanal wetland lies in Bolivia, the wildlife, lagoons, swimming holes and waterfalls around Puerto Suárez are genuine attractions, and the region is also a centre for the semi-precious gem bolivianite. The climate is tropical and humid: expect heat and high humidity most of the year, a wetter and greener spell roughly from November to March, and a drier, slightly more comfortable season from about May to September.

The town is small and easily walkable, strung loosely around Avenida Bolívar, which serves as its main commercial spine. Note that the border post can keep limited hours and may close early on Sundays, so plan crossings accordingly.

By Plane

Puerto Suárez is served by Puerto Suárez International Airport (IATA: PSZ), a short ride from the town centre, with Boliviana de Aviación (BoA) operating flights to and from Santa Cruz de la Sierra. This is the fastest way in or out and avoids the very long overland journey. Take a taxi for the short hop between the airport and town.

By Train

Puerto Suárez lies on the eastern railway (the "Tren de la Muerte" / Death Train line) operated by Ferroviaria Oriental running to Santa Cruz. Historically there were four service classes — the overnight Ferrobus with Cama (around Bs 250) and Semi-Cama (around Bs 222) departing 18:30 on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday; the Expreso Oriental (around Bs 127) at 16:00 Monday, Wednesday and Friday; a slower daily "Regional"; and the cheap Mixto (around Bs 47) on Thursdays. The station is well south of the town centre, and the station at neighbouring Puerto Quijarro is closer to the Brazilian border.

By Car / Road

Long-distance buses run between Puerto Suárez and Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and there are even through services as far as Rio de Janeiro in Brazil (around 28 hours). Crossing into the Brazilian tourist town of Corumbá is straightforward: take a taxi to the border, then continue by local transport on the Brazilian side. Watch border opening hours, which can be reduced on Sundays.

The town itself is small and walkable, with most services along and around Avenida Bolívar. Taxis handle longer hops — to the airport, to the train station south of town, and especially to the Brazilian border, from where a bus carries you to the bus station in Corumbá. Agree fares before setting off, and do not be talked into paying a long taxi fare all the way out to the abandoned Mutún mine site.

• The Bolivian Pantanal — the edge of the world's largest freshwater wetland, reachable without crossing into Brazil. Bolivian operators such as Ruta Verde can arrange trips in advance to see the abundant birdlife and wildlife, though many tours actually depart from nearby Corumbá.
• Laguna Cáceres — the lagoon beside the town, part of the Pantanal system and a scenic spot on the wetland's edge.
• Caves at Motacusito — about 7 km west of town, with stalactite formations.

Cooling off in the area's freshwater swimming holes (balnearios) and waterfalls is the main local pastime. El Salao and Vertiente, both east of town, are well developed and draw crowds; La Represa, towards the Mutún mine, is reportedly the best though it lies about 25 km away. Wildlife-watching excursions into the Bolivian Pantanal are the other signature activity, best arranged in advance with a reputable operator.

There are several restaurants along Avenida Bolívar, the town's main street, serving standard Bolivian and eastern-lowland fare. As a border town you will also find simple eateries near the market and the crossing catering to traders and travellers. Expect inexpensive set lunches and grilled meats rather than fine dining.

Puerto Suárez is not a tourist nightlife hub the way Corumbá or larger Bolivian cities are, and after-dark options are limited by the town's small size. Avenida Bolívar is the centre of what social life there is, with simple bars and shops. Given the heat, cold soft drinks and bottled water are essential; stick to bottled or treated water rather than tap.

• Budget: Hotel Beby (Avenida Bolívar 111, tel. +591 3 976-2700) with rooms around Bs 50 with fan and Bs 80 with air conditioning; Hotel Roboré (Avenida 6 de Agosto, tel. +591 3 976-2190); Hotel Frontera Verde (Vanguardia 24, tel. +591 3 976-2470).
• Mid-range: Hotel Ejecutivo (Avenida Bolívar, tel. +591 3 976-2267); Casa Real (Calle Vanguardia 39, one block from the central square, tel. +591 3 976-3335) with Wi-Fi and a swimming pool.
• Upscale / heritage: Resort El Pantanal (Arroyo Concepción, outside the city, tel. +591 3 978-2020; for transport to the resort call +591 77-036351).

Puerto Suárez is the best place in Bolivia to buy bolivianite, a local semi-precious gem, especially in uncut form. A substantial local industry has grown up around cutting, selling and exporting the stone, so this is the regional speciality to look for.

• Corumbá, Brazil (across the border via Puerto Quijarro/Arroyo Concepción) — the main Brazilian gateway to the Pantanal, with many wetland tours.
• Puerto Quijarro (just east) — the actual border town and closer railhead for crossing to Brazil.
• The Bolivian Pantanal (around town) — wildlife and lagoons on the Bolivian side without leaving the country.
• Santa Cruz de la Sierra (far west, via the eastern railway/road) — Bolivia's largest city and the regional hub.
• Roboré / Santiago de Chiquitos (west along the line) — cooler hill country and hiking around the Serranía de Santiago.