Samaipata

Samaipata is a small, laid-back town perched at roughly 1,600 m in the eastern foothills of the Andes, about 120 km west of the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. It draws travellers for its mild, temperate climate — a welcome break from the heat and humidity of the Santa Cruz lowlands — and for its setting among green hills, valleys, and cloud forest. The pretty houses, gentle pace, and small-town atmosphere have made it a favourite stop for backpackers and a magnet for a small community of European expatriates, which shows up in the town's surprisingly cosmopolitan mix of restaurants and guesthouses.

The town's headline attraction is El Fuerte de Samaipata, a UNESCO World Heritage site just outside town: a pre-Inca and Inca ceremonial centre built around a single enormous carved rock, later occupied by the Spanish before the modern town was founded nearby. Beyond the ruins, Samaipata works best as a base for getting outdoors — cloud-forest hikes in Amboró National Park, waterfalls, canyons, and condor-watching are all within reach, though almost all of these trips require a guide or an organised tour.

Layout is simple: life centres on the main plaza, with restaurants, bars, the market, and most lodging within a few blocks. The whole pueblo is easily walkable. The climate is pleasant year-round but the rainy season runs roughly December–February, when canyoning and self-guided hikes become risky and roads are prone to landslides; the drier months either side are the most comfortable for hiking and excursions.

By Car / Road

From Santa Cruz the trip takes about 2.5–3 hours along a scenic mountain highway, though landslides or road works can stretch it to 4 hours. Options:

• Shared taxis — about Bs. 30 per person; chartering the whole car runs Bs. 120–130 with pickup. A private car is recommended, as shared taxis pack in as many passengers as possible.
• Expresso Samaipata — Av. Omar Chávez Ortiz 1147 esq. Soliz de Olguín, tel. 333-5067. Departs once at least 4 passengers are aboard. From the Santa Cruz terminal, take bus no. 8 (Bs. 1.5) or a taxi (~Bs. 10) to reach the office.
• Cooperativa de Transporte "El Fuerte" — 2do Anillo, Av. Grigotá esq. Aruma, tel. 359-8958. Minibuses for Bs. 30 per passenger.

Note there is no bus terminal in Samaipata — onward bus tickets are sold informally (see Go Next).

The pueblo itself is small and the easiest way around is on foot. For excursions you'll usually need a taxi: agree the fare before setting off. A local ride costs about Bs. 10; a return trip to Las Cuevas with two waits runs around Bs. 80.

Motorbike rental is another option — a Dutch resident named Martin rents bikes (he lives toward the zoo; ask around in town for his contact). Bikes are easy to handle and fun for a day trip out to Las Cuevas or El Fuerte. As always with informal arrangements, confirm the price and condition before you set off.

• El Fuerte de Samaipata — the town's UNESCO World Heritage centrepiece, a pre-Inca and Inca ceremonial site dominated by a massive carved ceremonial rock, with ruins spanning Inca, pre-Inca, and Spanish-era occupation. There's little in the way of standing buildings, but reading the signs or hiring a guide brings the ancient cultures to life. On foot it's a full day; by car/taxi a half-day. To walk there: head east along the highway (direction Santa Cruz) for 3 km to where a signed road climbs to the right, then follow that quiet road ~6 km uphill to the entrance. Admission Bs. 50. (updated Oct 2018)

• Animal Refugio — a small wildlife refuge ~2 km from town, signposted from near the Mercado Municipal. Birds, monkeys, and other animals, some of them friendly. Admission Bs. 20. (updated Oct 2018)

• Museo Arqueológico de Samaipata — Calle Bolívar, near Caffè Art. A small archaeological museum, admission Bs. 5.

• Amboró National Park — cloud-forest hiking on the park's edge. Hire a guide from one of the agencies downtown, or hike marked trails yourself. Guided rates run about Bs. 210 pp for a group of 4 and Bs. 320 pp for a group of 2; entrance ~Bs. 15, and ~Bs. 30 by mototaxi.

• Las Cuevas — an easy-to-reach set of waterfalls with a pretty surrounding area you can explore on your own.

• Condor Mountain — best on clear days; a long day out with around 4 hours' driving and 4–6 hours of hiking. Billed as an alternative to Peru's Colca Canyon, though condor sightings are less reliable — they tend to appear around midday, but you may see only distant specks.

• La Pajcha waterfall — near Condor Mountain and great for camping; often combined with the condor hike in a single day.

• Canyoning — some excellent, simple canyoning through spectacular canyons. Doable self-guided if you genuinely know the terrain, but not in the rainy season (December–February).

For such a small town, Samaipata punches above its weight, thanks in part to its international expat community — expect everything from Bolivian home cooking to Dutch-pub fare and a genuinely good French bakery. Portions tend to be generous and prices low.

• Tierra Libre (by the main square) — delicious, original Bolivian dishes with a twist, massive portions, a friendly owner, and a beer garden. ~Bs. 40.
• La Oveja Negra (two blocks from the main square; from 18:00) — Dutch-owned gringo favourite serving hearty chicken/veg curry, chilli con carne, and goulash, plus apple crumble. Board games and darts. ~Bs. 30.
• Ranita (one block from the main square, on the corner; daily 08:00–12:00, 16:00–18:00) — a French bakery with outstanding bread and pastries (stick to the baked goods — the coffee disappoints). A must.
• Descanso en las Alturas (Calle Bolívar Final, tel. +591 944-6072) — pizzeria.
• Mercado Municipal Lanza — cheap lunches on the 1st floor, including a vegetarian stand with a full lunch for Bs. 22 (not daily, as of Sept 2022) — a good bet for vegetarian travellers.
• 1900 (Main Square) — a café with WiFi (via 3G), nice pastries, and hot chocolate for an after-dinner retreat.

The town is sleepy after dark, but a few spots keep things lively:

• La Boheme (Central Plaza) — on the corner of the central plaza, this is the town's main proper bar.
• La Oveja Negra — Dutch-owned with a relaxed pub feel, run by a friendly young crew.
• Che Wilson — weekend-only, popular with local teens, and one of the few real nightlife options in the village.

For non-alcoholic options, the cafés around the plaza (notably 1900) do hot chocolate and pastries, and Doña Sarita at Vivero Sarita serves coffee made from beans grown in her own garden. As elsewhere in Bolivia, treat tap water with caution — stick to bottled or treated water.

Budget

• Andoriña Hostal, Art & Culture — Calle Campero, 2½ blocks before the main square; tel. +591 3 944 6333, [email protected]. Balcony and room views, fresh breakfast included, and owners focused on sustainable tourism with plenty of hiking tips. Bs. 40 inc. breakfast.
• El Jardin — Calle Arenales final s/n (2 blocks from the market); tel. +591 73119461, [email protected]. Garden with oven and barbecue, shared kitchen, café and library, and even clay igloos. Rooms Bs. 30 pp, igloos Bs. 35 pp, camping Bs. 15; you can sleep free in exchange for garden work.
• Residencial Vargas — simple rooms from Bs. 20, with lovely owners.

Mid-range

• Vivero Sarita — 2 blocks from the Village Plaza; tel. +591 7-368-4035. Doña Sarita's rustic, peaceful guesthouse sits amid a lush garden of 400+ plant species, with fresh garden-grown coffee, home-cooked meals, hot showers, and dorm or private rooms with breakfast included. Check-in 11:00, check-out noon.
• La Posada del Sol — three blocks from the main plaza on a hill with spectacular views; great breakfast and a made-to-order menu available all day.

Upscale / splurge

• Quinta Piray — Road to Valle Abajo (taxi Bs. 10–15, or a 1 km / 10-min walk from the central square); tel./WhatsApp +591 721 91292. Over 20 cabins set among gardens and green spaces. US$40–90. Check-out 12:00. (updated Jun 2018)
• El Pueblito Resort Hotel and Restaurant — tel. +591-7-214-7994, [email protected].

Money note: There's a Banco Unión with an ATM on Calle Campero. Cooperativa La Merced gives Visa/Mastercard cash advances during working hours, as does nearby Mairana.

Samaipata is a place for provisioning rather than serious shopping. The Mercado Municipal Lanza is the spot for fresh produce, cheap eats, and everyday supplies. A handful of small shops and the town's expat-run cafés and bakeries round out the options. There's no established crafts-bargaining scene here — market prices for food are generally fixed and modest.

• Vallegrande / Pucará / La Higuera (~3–4 hr) — the trail of Che Guevara's last days; La Higuera is where he was killed.
• Las Cuevas (short trip from town) — easy waterfalls and swimming spots if you haven't already been.
• Laguna Quirusillas — a scenic lake outing in the surrounding region.
• Santa Cruz de la Sierra (~2.5–3 hr east) — Bolivia's largest city and the regional transport hub, on a notably scenic highway.
• Sucre (most of a day by bus, Bs. 70–120) — Bolivia's white colonial capital; a shaky but scenic ride with overnight buses available. Tickets are sold at a laundry shop on Calle Campero (across from Hostel Andoriña).
• Cochabamba (via Mairana) — take a taxi/trufi to Mairana (Bs. 7), then the 08:00 bus to Cochabamba (Bs. 40, arriving ~18:30); expect a bumpy ride on mostly unpaved road.