Punakha

Punakha is, for many travellers, the most beautiful district in Bhutan. Lying east of Thimphu beyond the Dochula Pass, it occupies a warm, low-lying valley where two rivers — the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) — meet, and at their confluence stands Punakha Dzong, widely regarded as the most magnificent fortress-monastery in the kingdom.

Punakha was the historic capital of Bhutan until the 1950s, and its dzong remains the winter residence of the central monk body and the site of great ceremonial occasions, including royal coronations and weddings. The valley's lower elevation gives it a gentle, almost balmy climate, with terraced rice fields, jacaranda blossom in spring, and a string of memorable sights: the long suspension bridge over the Pho Chhu, the fertility temple of Chimi Lhakhang, and the hilltop Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.

Punakha suits every visitor to Bhutan — it is a highlight of the western circuit, rich in beauty and history, and an easy, rewarding stop.

Punakha's relatively low elevation makes it pleasant for much of the year, and it is an especially good winter destination when the higher valleys are cold — December to February here is mild and sunny. Spring (March–April) is lovely, with jacaranda and rice-planting greenery, and autumn (October–November) brings clear skies and settled weather.

Late spring and summer (May–August) become warm to hot by Bhutanese standards, and the monsoon brings rain and the swelling of the rivers — Punakha has a history of glacial-lake flooding on the Pho Chhu, and the valley's flood defences reflect that. The cultural highlight is the Punakha Tshechu and the dramatic Punakha Drubchen, held together in late winter (around February–March): the Drubchen famously re-enacts a 17th-century battle, with men in historic dress, and the festival fills the dzong's courtyards.

Punakha is reached by road from Thimphu, a journey of a few hours that crosses the scenic Dochula Pass — at around 3,100 metres, crowned with 108 chortens and, on clear days, command of a long line of Himalayan peaks — before descending into the warm Punakha valley. The district sits on the lateral highway and is the natural next stop east of the capital.

Travel within the district is by vehicle, with most visitors moving by their tour operator's driver and guide. The valley's sights are spread along the rivers and reached by short drives and walks: Punakha Dzong stands at the river confluence; the suspension bridge is a short stroll; Chimi Lhakhang involves a pleasant walk through rice fields from the road; and the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten requires an uphill hike. The neighbouring district of Wangdue Phodrang is immediately adjacent and usually combined with Punakha.

• Punakha Dzong — the kingdom's most beautiful fortress-monastery, at the meeting of the Pho and Mo rivers.
• Punakha Suspension Bridge — a long, prayer-flag-draped footbridge over the Pho Chhu.
• Chimi Lhakhang — the famed "fertility temple", reached by a walk through rice fields.
• Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten — an elaborate hilltop stupa with sweeping valley views.
• Dochula Pass — the 108-chorten pass on the road from Thimphu, with Himalayan panoramas.
• Punakha valley — warm, terraced rice country, beautiful in spring and autumn.

Punakha shares Bhutan's national cuisine, and the warm valley's terraces are an important rice-growing area — the nutty Bhutanese red rice that accompanies meals across the kingdom is very much at home here. The national dishes are all present: ema datshi (chillies cooked with cheese), kewa datshi (potato and cheese), shamu datshi (mushroom and cheese), and phaksha paa, pork with dried chillies and radish.

The valley's lower, warmer climate also supports a good range of vegetables and fruit. River fish from the Pho and Mo Chhu feature in local cooking. Visitor dining is in hotels, lodges and farmhouses along the valley, where Bhutanese set meals are served alongside Indian and continental options; as elsewhere, the chilli-forward local food can be ordered milder. Suja (butter tea) and ara (a home-distilled spirit) are the traditional drinks.

Punakha holds a special place in Bhutanese history and religion. As the former capital and the winter seat of the Je Khenpo and the central monk body, it remains central to the kingdom's spiritual life, and Punakha Dzong is the setting for the most important ceremonial occasions of the nation, including royal coronations and the wedding of the king.

The district's great festivals are the Punakha Drubchen and Punakha Tshechu, held in late winter. The Drubchen is unique: it re-enacts the 17th-century defence of Bhutan against a Tibetan invasion, with local men dressed as the warriors (pazaps) of that era, and is followed by the masked-dance Tshechu, culminating in the unfurling of a great thongdrel scroll. The legend of the "Divine Madman" Drukpa Kunley is woven into the valley's culture through the much-visited Chimi Lhakhang, and traditional rice-farming life continues around the dzong.

• Visit Punakha Dzong — Bhutan's most beautiful fortress, at the confluence of two rivers.
• Cross the Punakha suspension bridge — a long, swaying, prayer-flag-laden span over the Pho Chhu.
• Walk to Chimi Lhakhang — the fertility temple, reached through terraced rice fields.
• Hike to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten — an ornate hilltop stupa with valley views.
• Stop at Dochula Pass — 108 chortens and, on a clear day, a wall of Himalayan peaks.