Qirmizi Qasaba

Qirmizi Qəsəbə (also known as Krasnaya Sloboda in Russian, meaning "Red Settlement") is a Jewish quarter on the eastern bank of the Qudailchay River, directly across the bridge from Quba's city center. It is believed to be the world's only all-Jewish town outside Israel, home to approximately 3,500 Mountain Jews (Juhuro), an ancient Jewish community that has lived in the Caucasus for centuries. The settlement takes its name from the distinctive red roofs visible from the nearby hilltop, a striking contrast to the smaller, earth-toned houses of Azerbaijani Quba on the opposite bank.

The community traces its origins to the late 18th century, when the Jewish population was relocated to the eastern bank by the local ruler. Despite periods of hardship under Soviet rule, including forced atheization, the community has maintained its distinct language (a Judeo-Tat dialect), religious traditions, and cultural identity. Today, Qirmizi Qəsəbə functions as a separate municipality within the Quba Rayon, with its own synagogues, schools, and community institutions. The settlement is quieter and more residential than Quba proper, with tree-lined streets, modest homes, and a palpable sense of communal life.

The best time to visit is late May through September, when the mountain climate is pleasant and the streets are green. The settlement is small enough to explore on foot in a few hours, making it an easy half-day excursion from Quba or a side trip from Bakı.

By Plane

The nearest airport is Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD) in Bakı, approximately 180 km south. From Bakı, take a bus or minibus to Quba (5.9 AZN, ~3 hours), then walk across the bridge from Quba's central square to Qirmizi Qəsəbə (15 minutes on foot).

By Train

The nearest railway station is Khachmaz, about 20 km east of Quba. However, buses and minibuses from Bakı to Quba are more convenient and direct.

By Car / Road

From Bakı, take the M1 highway north for approximately 2–2.5 hours to Quba. The bridge from Quba's central square leads directly into Qirmizi Qəsəbə. Parking is available on the Quba side of the bridge; the settlement's streets are narrow and not designed for visitor traffic.

Qirmizi Qəsəbə is entirely walkable. The settlement is compact, with the main synagogue, community buildings, and residential streets all within a 15-minute walk. The bridge connecting to Quba's city center is the only road access, and crossing it on foot takes about 15 minutes. There is no public transit within the settlement itself.

• Mountain Jewish Synagogue — The main synagogue of the community, a modest but well-maintained building at the heart of the settlement. Visitors are generally welcome outside of prayer hours; ask at the door for permission to look around.

• Red Roofs Viewpoint — The best view of Qirmizi Qəsəbə's distinctive red-roofed houses is from the hilltop on the Quba side of the river, near the Jewish cemeteries. The panorama of the settlement against the green hillside is iconic.

• Jewish Cemeteries — Three cemeteries on the northern bank of the Qudailchay, along the road to Qusar, offer a beautiful overview of both Quba and Qirmizi Qəsəbə. The oldest graves date back centuries and reflect the community's long history.

• Community Museum — A small museum documenting the history and culture of the Mountain Jews, with exhibits on traditional dress, religious artifacts, and the community's migration to the Caucasus.

• Walk across the bridge from Quba to Qirmizi Qəsəbə, observing the architectural contrast between the two settlements — the red-roofed Jewish quarter versus the earth-toned Azerbaijani town.

• Visit the synagogue and speak with community members about Mountain Jewish traditions, if they are receptive. The community is generally welcoming to respectful visitors.

• Climb to the viewpoint on the hill near the Jewish cemeteries for a panoramic view of both settlements and the Qudailchay River valley.

• Day trip to Khinalig — SUV drivers near the Quba bazaar can take you to the ancient mountain village (40–60 AZN round trip, ~1.5 hours each way).

Qirmizi Qəsəbə has limited dining options; most visitors eat in Quba. Within the settlement, a few small family-run restaurants and teahouses serve simple meals — grilled meats, qutab, and tea. For a more substantial meal, cross the bridge to Quba's bazaar area, where Kafe Dalğa and Ruslan Restoranı offer affordable Azerbaijani cuisine. The settlement observes kosher dietary laws more strictly than Quba's Muslim restaurants, though formal kosher certification is rare. Vegetarian options are available at most teahouses.

Azerbaijani black tea, served from a samovar in the armudu glass, is the standard drink at every teahouse. Bottled water is recommended over tap water. Soft drinks and fruit juices are available at small shops. Alcoholic beverages are less commonly offered in the settlement than in Quba, though some restaurants serve wine and beer.

• Budget: There are no formal hotels in Qirmizi Qəsəbə. Visitors can stay in Quba at Hotel Xınalıq (at the bazaar), ~30–50 AZN/night, a 15-minute walk across the bridge.
• Mid-range: Olympic Center (at the entrance of Quba) offers more modern rooms for ~80–120 AZN/night, about 10 minutes by taxi from the settlement.

• Local honey and dried fruits — Small shops in the settlement sell produce from the surrounding orchards, including Quba's famous apples (in season).
• Religious artifacts — The synagogue area occasionally has small shops selling Jewish ritual items and books, though selection is limited.
• Hand-knotted carpets — For a wider selection, visit the carpet factory or bazaar in Quba proper, just across the bridge.

• Quba (1 km west, walkable) — The rayon capital with historic mosques, a bazaar, carpet factory, and mountain scenery.
• Khinalig (30 km south, ~1.5 hours by 4WD) — A remote, ancient mountain village at 2,350 meters with stunning Caucasian scenery.
• Qusar (40 km north, ~30 min by car) — A mountain town at the foot of the Greater Caucasus, gateway to Shahdag National Park.
• Khachmaz (20 km east, ~20 min by car) — A coastal town with warm summer climate and Caspian beaches.
• Bakı (180 km south, ~2.5 hours by car) — Azerbaijan's vibrant capital with UNESCO-listed Old City and Flame Towers.