Kununurra

Kununurra is a small town of around 4,500 people in the eastern Kimberley region of Western Australia, just 45 km from the Northern Territory border. The town was created in 1958 when the Ord Irrigation Scheme dammed the Ord River, establishing a fertile agricultural area in one of Australia's most remote landscapes. The Miriwoong people, whose ancestors settled the Kimberley perhaps 65,000 years ago, call the area Goonoonooram, meaning "river."

The region's modern history begins with explorer Alexander Forrest in 1879, who named the river after WA Governor Sir Harry St George Ord. In 1882, Patrick Durack drove over 7,000 cattle from Queensland to establish pastoral stations. The Ord River Dam (completed 1971) created Lake Argyle, Australia's second-largest artificial lake, with an initial capacity of 5,641 gigalitres — later doubled by raising the dam wall in the 1990s. A hydroelectric power station was also installed. The region was also notable for diamond mining, particularly rare pink diamonds, though the Argyle mine closed in 2020.

Kununurra has a tropical monsoon climate with two distinct seasons. The dry season (May–September) brings hot but manageable days around 30°C with blue skies — this is the main tourist period. The wet season (October–April) delivers heavy rain, sweltering humidity with apparent temperatures reaching 40–49°C, and spectacular electric storms. Many facilities close during the wet, but the landscape transforms with waterfalls and green growth. The sun rises very early — from 4:45AM in summer to 5:45AM in winter.

Agricultural inspections: Western Australia enforces strict rules on food and plant material entering the state, particularly from the Northern Territory. Fines apply for failing to declare produce. Eat any fresh fruit before crossing the border.

By Plane

Kununurra Airport (KNX), officially the East Kimberley Regional Airport, is located 4 km west of town. Airnorth flies daily from Broome (90 minutes) and continues to Darwin (another hour, plus a one-hour time zone change). Virgin operates direct flights from Perth three days a week (3 hours). Once a week Airnorth flies direct from Perth. Qantas no longer serves Kununurra directly — connect via Broome. The airport is small but modern with a scenic approach. Car hire companies are based at the airport — book well in advance as fleets are small.

Taxis meet incoming flights and cost around $12 to town. Several hotels offer free airport transfers. There is no bus service.

By Car / Road

Kununurra is extremely remote. Be sure this is your plan:

• From Perth — First reach Broome (2,360 km via the North West Coastal Highway through Carnarvon, or 2,050 km via the Great Northern Highway inland through Newman). From Broome, continue 1,044 km via the Great Northern Highway through Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek — allow two days.
• Gibb River Road — A 650 km scenic shortcut through the northern Kimberley, 4WD only, dirt track, impassable in the wet season. Allow most of a week. Spectacular scenery but rough going.
• From Darwin — Take the Stuart Highway 324 km south to Katherine, then the Victoria Highway 524 km west to Kununurra.

Long straight highways encourage speeding but fatigue is dangerous. Watch for road trains that can push you off the road with their draft, and kangaroos at sunset.

Greyhound runs from Broome five days a week (6AM departure, 14 hours via Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek) and continues to Darwin. From Darwin, the westbound Greyhound departs around 3PM, reaching Kununurra around 1AM. Remember the one-hour time zone change at the WA/NT border. The bus halt is at the Ord River Roadhouse, just off Victoria Highway on Messmate Way.

The town centre is walkable but distances beyond it are too far and too hot for walking. Driving is relaxed — few cars, no traffic lights, free parking. Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Kununurra, and Thrifty at the airport, though you may negotiate a downtown pickup. Hertz no longer operates here.

Sunset and sunrise are the best times to view natural features — cooler temperatures, luminous orange light on the rocks, and more wildlife. Plan your return before darkness falls on unfamiliar terrain.

• Mirima National Park (Hidden Valley) — Hidden Valley Road, 24 hours, $17 per vehicle. Striking sandstone formations often described as a "miniature Bungle Bungles." Walking trails range from 0.5 to 4 km. The rest of the park is open bushland with unmarked trails among rocks and boab trees.

• Kelly's Knob — 191 m, accessed via Kelly Road off Speargrass Road. The highest point for miles with panoramic views. A well-worn trail leads from the car park to the TV tower at the peak.

• Celebrity Tree Park — Between Victoria Highway, Lily Creek Lagoon, and Kimberland on Old Darwin Road. Free, 24 hours. Created in 1984, the park gained fame when the 2008 film Australia brought celebrities to town, each planting a tree. Some trees have since died and plaques have fallen off others.

• Lily Creek Lagoon — The small lake just south of the highway, a side-arm of Lake Kununurra.

• Kununurra Museum — 72 Coolibah Drive, Monday–Friday 12:30–5:30PM, donation. A local history museum with an enthusiastic curator.

• Lake Kununurra — The 55 km-long lake created in 1963 by the Diversion Dam, popular for boating and fishing.

• Lake Argyle — Australia's second-largest artificial lake, located south of Kununurra. The massive dam and surrounding landscape are spectacular, especially during sunset.

• Ord River cruise — Scenic cruises along the Ord River, showcasing the gorge, wildlife, and the dam infrastructure.

• Fishing — Lake Kununurra and the Ord River system offer excellent barramundi fishing.

• Scenic flights — Flights over the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu), Lake Argyle, and the Mitchell Falls provide unforgettable aerial views of the Kimberley landscape.

• Swimming — Lake Argyle and various swimming holes around the region, though crocodile awareness is essential.

• Art galleries — Several local galleries showcase Indigenous art and works by local artists (see the Buy section). Browsing is welcome.

Dining options are limited but decent for a remote outback town. Most restaurants serve hearty portions suited to the tropical climate.

• The PumpHouse — A popular restaurant on the banks of the Ord River, known for its relaxed atmosphere and locally sourced menu.
• Wild Mango — A café offering fresh juices, smoothies, and light meals with tropical flavours.
• Kelly's Bar & Grill — At the Kununurra Country Club. Solid pub-style meals and a good spot for a cold drink after a day of exploring.

• The Hoochery — Australia's oldest legal still, producing rum and other spirits from local sugarcane. Tastings and tours available.
• Kelly's Bar — A popular local watering hole at the Kununurra Country Club.
• Ord River Hotel — The main pub in town, with a lively atmosphere during the tourist season.

Tap water in Kununurra is safe to drink.

Budget:

• Kununurra Backpackers — Basic dormitory accommodation. Rates from around $35 per night.

Mid-range:

• Discovery Parks Kununurra — Cabin and caravan park accommodation. Rates from around $120 per night for cabins.
• Ivanhoe Village — Self-contained cabins with kitchen facilities. Rates from around $130 per night.

Upscale:

• The Kimberley Grande — Resort-style accommodation with pool and restaurant. Rates from around $250 per night.
• El Questro Homestead — A luxury wilderness lodge set on a million-acre cattle station, approximately 100 km from Kununurra. Rates from $1,200+ per night, all-inclusive.

• Indigenous art galleries — Kununurra has several galleries featuring works by local Miriwoong and other Kimberley artists. These are well worth browsing even if you're not purchasing.
• Local produce — Mangoes, melons, and other tropical fruits grown in the Ord Irrigation Scheme area.
• Argyle pink diamonds — Though the mine has closed, existing stones are available through select jewellers.

• Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles) (300 km, 3–4 hours) — Iconic beehive-shaped sandstone domes, one of Australia's most remarkable natural formations.
• Lake Argyle (70 km, 45 minutes) — Australia's second-largest artificial lake with cruises, swimming, and spectacular sunsets.
• El Questro Wilderness Park (100 km, 1.5 hours) — A million-acre station offering gorges, hot springs, and guided tours.
• Wyndham (100 km, 1 hour) — The northernmost town in Western Australia, at the head of the Cambridge Gulf, with the famous Five Rivers Lookout.
• Katherine, NT (524 km, 5.5 hours) — Gateway to Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park), accessible via the Victoria Highway.