Penama

Pénama is one of the six provinces of Vanuatu, located in the northern-central part of the archipelago. The province comprises three main islands — Pentecost (Pentecôte), Ambae (also known as Aoba) and Maewo — along with several smaller islands. These islands are volcanic in origin, rising steeply from the Pacific Ocean, and are covered in dense tropical rainforest that descends to black sand beaches, coral reefs and sheltered harbours. Pénama is one of the least-visited provinces in Vanuatu, offering travellers an exceptionally authentic and unspoiled Melanesian experience.

Pentecost is the most famous of the three islands, renowned worldwide as the birthplace of land diving (naghol or n'gol) — the ancient ritual in which men jump from tall wooden towers with only vines tied to their ankles. This ceremony, performed during the yam harvest season from April to June, inspired the modern sport of bungee jumping and is one of the most extraordinary cultural spectacles in the Pacific. The island's interior is rugged and mountainous, with deep valleys and waterfalls.

Ambae is a volcanic island dominated by its active volcano, Mt. Lombenben (also known as Aoba), which last erupted in 2017 and again in 2018, forcing the temporary evacuation of the entire island. The island is ringed by coral reefs and has a fertile interior where kava, yam and copra are cultivated. Maewo, the least visited of the three, is known for its waterfalls, hot springs and a tradition of elaborate custom dances. Together, these islands offer a glimpse of Vanuatu's deep cultural traditions and dramatic volcanic landscapes.

The best time to visit Pénama is during the dry season, from April to October, when the southeast trade winds bring cooler, drier weather with temperatures averaging 24–28 °C. This period coincides with the yam harvest season on Pentecost (April to June), when the famous land diving ceremonies take place — the single most compelling reason to visit the province.

The wet season (November to March) brings heavier rainfall, higher humidity and the risk of cyclones, particularly from January to March. Roads and tracks become muddy and difficult, and inter-island boat services may be cancelled. However, the wet season also brings lush vegetation and waterfalls at their most impressive.

Cultural events and ceremonies are organised according to local calendars rather than fixed dates. The land diving season on Pentecost typically runs from late April to mid-June, with the most spectacular performances occurring in May. If you wish to attend, check with local contacts or tour operators in Port Vila for the current year's schedule. Kava harvesting and associated ceremonies occur throughout the dry season on all three islands.

Air Vanuatu operates domestic flights from Port Vila to Pentecost (Saratamata airport, also known as Lonorore) and to Ambae (Longana and Sara airports). Flights are infrequent — typically two to three times per week — and should be booked well in advance, especially during the land diving season. There are no scheduled flights to Maewo; access is by boat from Ambae or Pentecost.

Inter-island travel is by boat. Small cargo ships and passenger vessels connect the three islands, though schedules are irregular and journeys can be rough in poor weather. Charter boats can be arranged through guesthouses and tour operators in Port Vila or through village contacts. On Pentecost, boats connect the main villages along the east and west coasts.

Within each island, transport is extremely limited. There are no paved roads on any of the three islands. On Pentecost, a single rough track runs along parts of the west coast, but most villages are accessible only by foot or boat. On Ambae, a rough road connects some coastal villages, but the interior is accessible only on foot. On Maewo, the main village of Asanvari is reached by boat, and the island can be explored on foot. Walking is the primary mode of transport; bring sturdy footwear and be prepared for steep, muddy trails.

• Pentecost — birthplace of land diving, the ancient ceremony that inspired bungee jumping, and a centre of traditional kastom culture
• Ambae — volcanic island dominated by Mt. Lombenben, with coral reefs, waterfalls and a rich agricultural tradition
• Maewo — remote island with waterfalls, hot springs, elaborate custom dances and some of the most pristine rainforest in Vanuatu
• Saratamata — main village on Pentecost's east coast, with an airstrip and access to land diving sites
• Longana — village on Ambae's east coast, with an airstrip and a mission school
• Lolowai — village on Ambae's north coast, with a natural harbour and a history of mission activity
• Loltong — village on Pentecost's north coast, with a cultural centre and traditional crafts
• Sara — village on Ambae's west coast, with an airstrip and access to the volcano

The cuisine of Pénama is rooted in the Melanesian staple diet of root vegetables, coconut, tropical fruit and seafood. The foundation of most meals is laplap — a pudding made from grated yam, taro or manioc mixed with coconut cream, wrapped in banana leaves and baked in an earth oven. Laplap is often topped with chicken, pork or tinned fish.

Other staples include breadfruit (ulu), yam, sweet potato, taro, manioc and plantain. Yam is particularly significant on Pentecost, where it is central to the land diving ceremony and is grown with great pride. Coconut is used in virtually everything — grated, as cream, or as oil. Fresh fish, crayfish and coconut crab are caught locally and prepared simply, often grilled or in coconut cream.

There are no restaurants in Pénama in the conventional sense. Most visitors eat at their guesthouses or in village homestays, where meals are prepared by the hosts using local ingredients. Expect simple but filling meals: rice or laplap with fish or chicken, tropical fruit (papaya, pineapple, banana, coconut) and strong local coffee or tea. On all three islands, food and water can be scarce during the wet season; it is polite and practical to bring extra supplies for yourself and your guide.

Kava — a mildly sedative drink made from the root of the pepper plant — is consumed throughout Pénama and is a central part of community life. Kava bars (nakamals) are found in most villages. Tusker and Vanuatu Bitter are the local beers, available in some guesthouses.

Dietary considerations: vegetarians will find the diet naturally suited, as root vegetables and coconut form the base of most meals. Vegan options are similarly plentiful. There are no supermarkets or specialist food shops; bring any specific dietary requirements with you from Port Vila.

Pénama is one of the most culturally traditional provinces in Vanuatu. The islands are home to a rich tapestry of customs and beliefs, collectively known as kastom, which govern social life, agriculture and ceremony. The most famous cultural event is the land diving ceremony (naghol or n'gol) on Pentecost, performed during the yam harvest season from April to June. Men jump from towers up to 30 metres high, with only vines tied to their ankles, in a ritual that celebrates the yam harvest, tests courage and marks the transition from boyhood to manhood. The ceremony is a profound expression of Pentecost's kastom and is not performed as a tourist show — visitors who attend are privileged witnesses.

On Ambae, kastom traditions include elaborate grade-taking ceremonies, which involve feasting, dancing and the exchange of pigs. The island's communities maintain strong ties to their land and sea, and traditional agriculture — particularly kava, yam and copra cultivation — remains central to daily life. Maewo is known for its custom dances, which are performed during ceremonies and celebrations, and for its tradition of elaborate body decoration.

Traditional arts and crafts are widely practised. On Pentecost, the production of woven baskets, mats and the carved wooden figures associated with the land diving ceremony are important crafts. On Ambae, women produce finely woven mats and baskets. On Maewo, traditional carvings and woven goods are produced for local use and, increasingly, for sale.

There are no formal festival calendars in Pénama. Cultural events are organised by communities according to their own schedules and are communicated locally. The annual Vanuatu Independence Day celebrations (30 July) are marked with events across the province. Music in Pénama is primarily traditional: drumming on slit gongs (tam-tams), chanting and singing. String band music — a blend of traditional melodies with guitar and ukulele — is popular and can be heard in villages on Saturday evenings and during celebrations.

1. Witness a Land Diving Ceremony on Pentecost — The naghol (land dive) is one of the most extraordinary cultural ceremonies in the Pacific. During the yam harvest season (April to June), men and boys climb wooden towers up to 30 metres high and dive headfirst, with only vines tied to their ankles, in a ritual that has been performed for centuries. The ceremony is accompanied by chanting, dancing and the beating of slit gongs. Land diving is not performed as a tourist attraction — it is a sacred cultural event. Visitors who attend are guests of the community and should approach with respect. Tours from Port Vila are the most reliable way to attend.

2. Trek to the Summit of Mt. Lombenben on Ambae — The active volcano at the centre of Ambae (Aoba) is a challenging but rewarding trek. The mountain rises steeply from the coast to over 1,400 metres, passing through dense tropical rainforest, cloud forest and finally barren volcanic terrain. The crater lake at the summit is one of the largest in Vanuatu. The volcano last erupted in 2017 and 2018, and conditions should be checked before attempting the trek. A local guide is essential.

3. Explore the Waterfalls and Hot Springs of Maewo — Maewo is the wettest island in Vanuatu and is home to numerous waterfalls, some of which plunge directly into the sea. The island also has natural hot springs, which are used by local communities for cooking and bathing. The village of Asanvari, on the south coast, is the main settlement and a base for exploring the island. Maewo receives very few visitors, and a stay here offers a uniquely peaceful and authentic Melanesian experience.

4. Attend a Kava Ceremony in a Village Nakamal — Throughout Pénama, kava is consumed in nakamals (kava bars) as a central part of community life. The drink, made from the root of the pepper plant, has a mildly sedative effect and is consumed in a ritualised manner. Visitors are often invited to join a kava session, which is a wonderful way to meet local people and learn about kastom. Approach with respect and follow the guidance of your hosts.

5. Snorkel the Coral Reefs of Ambae's Coast — Ambae is surrounded by coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, sea turtles and rays. The clear, warm waters offer excellent snorkelling, particularly on the north and east coasts. Access is by boat from the coastal villages. The reefs are largely unspoiled and receive very few visitors, offering a pristine underwater experience.