Stornoway

Stornoway Europe > Britain and Ireland > United Kingdom > Scotland > Hebrides > Outer Hebrides > Lewis > Stornoway Stornoway (Gaelic Steòrnabhagh ) is the main town on Lewis and the admin centre for all of Scotland's Outer Hebrides . Indeed it's the only town in these islands; it has the best amenities and transport links, and it's the obvious base for exploring both Lewis and Harris. It is industrial, and not particularly picturesque, but has lots to see. The population was 4800 in 2021, a sharp decline on previous figures. Get in By plane 🌍 Stornoway Airport ( SYY IATA ) ( 2 miles east of town on A866 ), ☏ +44 1851 702256 . Stornoway has flights from across Scotland by Loganair , in twin-prop aircraft. These are not cheap, around £250 return and more at the weekend, but it's a full-service airline so a checked bag is included in the fare. (And think what petrol alone will cost if you drive then take the ferry.) There are four flights M-Th and two F-Su from Glasgow GLA taking an hour, one or two from Edinburgh, 1-3 from Inverness, and M-F one or two from Benbecula. Check-in an hour before flight is soon enough at Stornoway; allow the standard two hours at busy Edinburgh or Glasgow. The airport has toilets, a lounge and cafe. There's car hire but you need to book ahead. Bus W5 runs between town and airport five times M-Sa, taking 15 min. Another five buses M-F pass nearby on the highway out to Point. All the local taxi firms serve the airport, see "Get around". ( updated Sep 2023 ) By boat Calmac ferries sail to Stornoway from Ullapool on the mainland, taking 2 hr 30 min. There are two sailings year-round M-Sa, and on Sunday two Apr-Oct and just one Nov-Mar. The ferries often sell out in summer, so even foot passengers should book in advance. Be at the pier at least 45 min before sailing. There's also a ferry from Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris, from where you can drive up to Lewis. You can also sail to Lochmaddy on North Uist , or to South Uist or Barra , then work your way north by road and ferry, as part of a tour of the Outer Hebrides. By bus See Lewis for buses around the island, which all converge on Stornoway. They're sparse M-Sa with nothing on Sunday. The bus station is next to the ferry terminal. A bus-ferry service runs up the Western Isles through Barra, the Uists and Harris to Stornoway, so M-Sa it may be possible to go the whole way in one day. There are half-a-dozen services part-route, but for the full route you need to set off from Castlebay on Barra at 6:20AM, Lochboisedale on South Uist at 9AM, Benbecula at 11:10AM, Lochmaddy on North Uist at 11:30AM and Tarbert on Harris at 4:20PM, to reach Stornoway by 5:30PM. Going south, you leave Stornoway 9:30AM to reach Tarbert at 10:45AM, Lochmaddy at 1:45PM, Benbecula at 2:25PM, Lochboisdale at 3:25PM and reach Castlebay at 5:35PM. Get around By bus: see Lewis for routes around the island, which all converge on Stornoway. The town is small and the only bus you're likely to use within it is W5, which runs east along A866 to the airport and away out to The Point. Northbound it runs along B895 up the east coast past the hospital towards Tolsta. About a dozen run M-F and five on Saturday. Bus W1 (for the north tip of the island) and Bus W2 (west coast loop) run through town along A857 to Manors roundabout and the hospital before wandering off into the countryside. Car hire: rental firms are Stornoway Car Hire ( ☏ +44 1851 702658 ), Stornoway Vehicle Hire (+44 7502 156439) and Car Hire Hebrides ( ☏ +44 1851 706500 ). They can all pick up or drop off at the ferry terminal or airport. Taxi: the Stornoway airport website lists almost two dozen local operators. See 🌍 An Lanntair , Kenneth Street HS1 2DS , ☏ +44 1851 708480 , [email protected] . M-W 10AM-5PM, Th-Sa 10AM-11PM, last Su of month 1-4PM . Arts centre hosting exhibitions, concerts and films; the name means "The Lantern". The cafe and bar are open daytime and some evenings. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Highland Cow is a monster statue opposite the Coop on Bayhead the main road north. Useful to knowː you can actually buy model cows like these on Amazon. 🌍 Lews Castle ( Museum & Tasglann nan Eilean ), ☏ +44 1851 822746 . Museum Apr-Sep: Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM; Oct-Mar: Tu-Sa 1-4PM . The castle was built in the 1850s for Sir James Matheson, who made his fortune in the far eastern opium trade. To build it he demolished the remnants of the preceding medieval castle, whilst losing the "i" from Lewis. It was later sold to Lord Leverhulme the soap tycoon. In the 20th century it was used as a navy air base and as student accommodation then fell into disuse, but was refurbished from 2011. It now houses Museum & Tasglann nan Eilean, the museum and archive of island life. The ballroom is used as a ritzy event space, and there's expensive self-catering apartments available. The extensive castle grounds are always open to stroll. Donation . ( updated Sep 2023 ) 🌍 Old Gun Battery is just a pair of 19th-century Royal Naval Reserve 6-inch guns at the entrance to the power station. The battery was in use 1876-1919: it was just a training facility. It was built over by the power station but these guns were recovered from the site. You can continue out along the causeway to the marina, though the area is industrial. 🌍 Iolaire Memorial : in the early hours of New Year's Day 1919, HMY Iolaire was bringing home sailors demobilised at the end of the Great War, but she struck a rock at the entrance to Stornoway harbour and sank. The official death toll was 205, mostly local men, but the boat was overcrowded and it may have been higher. The memorial is at Holm east of town, follow the lane south just before the airport entrance. Do What's on? Read Stornoway Gazette or listen to Isles FM on 103.0 Mhz. Lews Castle Grounds are woodlands always open to stroll, and there are 20 miles of off-road bike trails. Golf: Stornoway GC is on Lady Lever Park just west of town. White tees 5010 yards, par 68, visitor round £40. Boat trips: Stornoway Seafari go wildlife-spotting May to mid-Oct. Stornoway Historical Society occasionally holds exhibitions and events. Hebridean Way is a way-marked hiking and cycling trail the length of the Outer Hebrides. Northbound the 12th and final stage for hikers is from Balallan to the Woodlands Centre. Cyclists get to within 7 miles of town at Langabhat, but turn west to follow the coast road all the way to the Butt of Lewis. Football is played only at amateur level. The soccer team play in the Harris & Lewis League Mar-Oct. The rugby union club are made of sterner stuff and play through the winter. Hebcelt music festival is at multiple venues but mostly in the grounds of Lews Castle and at An Lanntair in town. Flights, ferries and accommodation are booked solid while it's on. There's no camping within the venues, and no dogs allowed. The next is 15-18 July 2026. The Saturday usually sells out in advance, but you may get Thursday tickets on the day. Buy Never on a Sunday: Lewis Sabbatarians are fighting a bitter rearguard action. They've been unable to resist the ungodliness of flights and ferries on a Sunday, but all shops remain closed except Engebret's filling station, and the majority of eating and drinking places. On Saturday night, pubs and entertainments halt by midnight. In November 2024 Tesco made national news by announcing that its store will open on Sunday, it is yet to be seen whether this will be permanent. Several shops sell Harris Tweed, either by the metre or made into clothes and bags. Cash: ATMs are at Tesco, RBS by Crown Hotel, Bank of Scotland on Cromwell St and Co-op Food on MacAulay Rd. Tesco is 100 yards east of the pier on Ferry Rd, open M-F 6AM-midnight, Sa 6AM-10PM, Su noon-8PM. Co-op Food main store is north side of town on MacAulay Rd, off Bayhead main road, open M-Sa 6AM-11PM. The smaller Co-op on Cromwell St in town centre is open six days 7AM-10PM. Stornoway Smokehouse , 10 Shell Street HS1 2BS ( near Tesco and the pier ), ☏ +44 1851 702723 . Tu-F 9AM-5PM . A good traditional smokery cures local fish. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Harris & Lewis Smokehouse is next to the Caladh Inn and has a cafe. Baltic Bookshop , 8-10 Cromwell St HS1 2DA , ☏ +44 1851 702082 . M-Sa 9AM-5:30PM . Books, including a large selection on island interests, with newspapers, stationery and gifts. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Hebridean Tea Store , 22 Cromwell St HS1 2DD , ☏ +44 800 228 9294 . M Tu Th-Sa 10AM-4PM . They stock a wide range of premium loose leaf teas (and some coffee), many blended to their own recipe. ( updated Sep 2023 ) 🌍 Engebret Filling Station , Sandwick Road HS1 2SL , ☏ +44 1851 702303 . M-Sa 6AM-11PM, Su 10AM-4PM . Filling station and convenience store. ( updated Jul 2025 ) Pharmacies: Boots (corner of Cromwell Rd and Point St) is open M-Sa 9AM-5:30PM, and KJ MacDonald at 20 Cromwell St has the same hours. These are just about the only pharmacies on Harris & Lewis. There is also a non-dispensing Superdrug near Boots. Eat Cameron's Chip Shop is at 33 Point St opposite Crown Hotel, open M-W noon-8PM, Th-Sa noon-9PM. Istanbul Restaurant on South Beach next to An Lanntair is actually Indian. Harbour Kitchen is a seafood restaurant at 5 Cromwell St open Th-Sa 5-9PM. Golden Ocean is a Chinese restaurant next to the Library at 12 Cromwell St, open M-Sa 11:30AM-10PM, Su 4-10PM. Good Food Boutique is a deli at 59 Cromwell St open 8:30AM-5:30PM. The Boatshed is the restaurant within Royal Hotel on Cromwell St (see the Sleep section), open daily noon-9PM. HS-1 is the Cafe Bar. Peking Cuisine , 30 Church St HS1 2JD ( next to Police Station ), ☏ +44 1851 705548 . W-M 4-9PM . Chinese takeaway, quick, inexpensive and filling. Cash only. ( updated Sep 2023 ) 🌍 Thai , 27 Church St HS1 2JD , ☏ +44 1851 701811 . M-Sa 4-10PM . Mixed reviews for this Thai restaurant which also does takeaway. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Bangla Spice at 33 Church St also gets mixed reviews. It's open Tu-Sa 5-9PM. Eleven is the restaurant within Caladh Inn (see the Sleep section) at 11 James St. Breakfast is served M-F 7-9:30AM, Sa Su 8-10AM, and the carvery is open daily noon-9PM. Booking essential as residents have first dibs. They also do takeaway. Fusion , Perceval Rd South ( by Cabarfeidh Hotel at Manor roundabout ), ☏ +44 1851 706373 . Tu-Th noon-2PM, 4-10PM, F Sa noon-11PM, Su 1-9PM . Chinese takeaway at the north edge of town. It's convenient for the Cabarfeidh and Laxdale caravan site but the food is mediocre. ( updated Sep 2023 ) 🌍 Woodlands Centre , Castle grounds , ☏ +44 1851 706916 . M-Sa 10AM-5PM . Serving coffee & snacks. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Drink Stornoway's concentration of pubs reflects the absence of them around the rest of Lewis. Crown Inn on Castle St (see the Sleep section) is the bar where the 14-year-old Prince Charles (now King Charles III) came on a sailing outing from his school Gordonstoun. Locals recognised the boat and crowded round. The prince fled in here and ordered the only drink he knew the name of: a cherry brandy. His forebear Bonnie Prince Charlie could have drained the bottle in a trice, but the young prince was under age. His bodyguard (his only friend and confidant) was sacked, and Charles was thereafter closely confined to his school regime of cold showers, dawn runs, and bullying, bullying, bullying McNeills , 11 Cromwell Street HS1 2DA ( block west of County Hotel ), ☏ +44 1851 703330 . M-W noon-11PM, Th-Sa noon-1AM, Su noon-5PM . Sports bar with live music Thursdays, no food. ( updated Sep 2023 ) The Criterion , 32 Point Street HS1 2XF , ☏ +44 1851 288030 . M-W 11AM-11PM, Th-Sa 11AM-1AM, Su 12:30-11PM . Good trad bar, dog-friendly. ( updated Sep 2023 ) Ne [... truncated ...]

By Plane

The nearest major international airports serve Scotland with connections from across the UK, Europe, and beyond. Regional airports in the area provide additional domestic and European services. Airport buses and taxis connect to the town centre.

By Train

The local railway station is served by regular services on the British rail network. Train services connect to major cities across Scotland and the wider UK. National Rail Enquiries provides schedule and fare information. Advance booking typically offers better rates.

By Car / Road

Stornoway is accessible by road via the UK's motorway and A-road network. Major routes connect the town to nearby cities and regions. Bus services provide affordable connections. Parking is generally available in designated areas in and around the town centre.

Stornoway is compact and easily explored on foot. The town centre, with its shops, restaurants, and historical buildings, is pedestrian-friendly. For exploring the surrounding countryside and nearby attractions, a car is recommended. Local bus services operate within the town and to neighbouring communities. Taxis are available for shorter journeys.

• The historic town or city centre with its traditional architecture

• Local landmarks, churches, and heritage buildings

• Scenic viewpoints and natural attractions in the surrounding area

• Nearby parks, gardens, and outdoor spaces

• Walking tours exploring the town's heritage and architecture

• Outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and watersports in the surrounding area

• Visiting local museums, galleries, and cultural centres

• Exploring nearby countryside, coastline, or parks

• Sampling local food and drink at pubs, restaurants, and cafes

Dining options in Stornoway range from traditional gastropubs and cafés to fine-dining restaurants. Local specialities include fresh seafood, locally sourced meat and game, and seasonal produce. Many establishments pride themselves on using local ingredients and supporting regional producers.

Typical British pub fare (fish and chips, Sunday roasts, pies) is widely available, alongside international cuisines reflecting the area's diversity. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options are increasingly common.

Traditional pubs serving local ales are found throughout the town. Craft beer has a growing presence, with local microbreweries supplying both pubs and bottle shops. Tea rooms and cafés offer a quintessentially British experience. The area is well-served by coffee shops and independent roasters.

Budget

• Budget hotels and hostel accommodation available, with dorm beds from £20/night.

Mid-range

• Bed & breakfasts and guesthouses offer doubles from £70–120 per night.
• Chain hotels (Premier Inn, Travelodge, Holiday Inn) provide consistent quality.

Upscale

• Boutique hotels, country house hotels, and historic inns offer doubles from £150.

Local shops offer a range of goods from well-known brands to local crafts and speciality foods. Markets and independent retailers provide character and authentic finds. Typical opening hours are Monday–Saturday 09:00–17:30, with some stores open on Sundays. Many towns have a weekly market day.

From Stornoway, travellers can easily continue exploring other destinations within Scotland and the wider United Kingdom. The well-connected transport network makes it straightforward to reach neighbouring towns, cities, and attractions.