Orkney

Orkney is an archipelago of around 70 islands, roughly 20 inhabited, lying off the northeastern tip of the Scottish mainland across the Pentland Firth. Its landscape is low, green, and treeless, shaped by wind and sea rather than mountains, and its history stretches back further than almost anywhere else in Britain: Orkney holds one of the densest concentrations of Neolithic monuments in Europe, predating Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. Beyond its prehistoric sites, Orkney carries a strong Norse heritage, having been under Norwegian and Danish rule until 1468, which still shows in local place names, dialect, and identity.

The main town, Kirkwall, on the largest island, Mainland, serves as the archipelago's hub, with the smaller town of Stromness as its historic harbour gateway. Orkney's climate is famously changeable and windy year-round, but its long summer daylight hours (this far north, midsummer evenings barely darken) and relatively mild winters, moderated by the Gulf Stream, make it more temperate than its latitude suggests.

By Plane

Kirkwall Airport (KOI) has direct flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Inverness, plus inter-island flights operated by Loganair, including some of the shortest scheduled flights in the world between the smaller Orkney isles. The airport is about 4 km from Kirkwall town centre, with taxis readily available.

By Train

Orkney has no railway. The nearest mainline stations are in Thurso and Wick on the Scottish mainland, from which onward travel to Orkney is by bus and ferry.

By Car / Road

Orkney is reached by car ferry, not by road, since it is an island group. NorthLink Ferries operates the main crossing from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness, taking about 90 minutes, and a longer overnight service from Aberdeen to Kirkwall. Pentland Ferries also runs a shorter crossing from Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope.

A car is by far the most practical way to explore Mainland Orkney and the causeway-linked South Isles, given the spread of archaeological sites and limited public transport. Local buses connect Kirkwall and Stromness with the main villages, but services are infrequent, especially on Sundays. Inter-island ferries run from Kirkwall and other harbours to the outer isles, and inter-island flights are a quick, memorable way to reach the more remote isles like Papa Westray and North Ronaldsay.

Neolithic Sites (UNESCO World Heritage)

• Skara Brae — an extraordinarily well-preserved Neolithic village, older than Stonehenge, with stone furniture still visible in its houses.
• Ring of Brodgar — a large Neolithic stone circle set in dramatic open moorland between two lochs.
• Standing Stones of Stenness — one of the oldest stone circle monuments in the British Isles.
• Maeshowe — a chambered Neolithic tomb aligned to the winter solstice sunset, with later Viking runic graffiti inside.

Towns & Heritage

• St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall — a striking red sandstone Norse-era cathedral, founded in 1137.
• Stromness — a historic stone-built harbour town with narrow flagstone streets.
• Italian Chapel — a beautifully decorated chapel built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II from a Nissen hut.

Explore Orkney's archaeological trail connecting Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, Stenness, and Maeshowe, all within a short drive of each other on Mainland. Go birdwatching, since Orkney is one of the UK's premier destinations for seabirds, seals, and migratory birds, especially around the cliffs of Marwick Head and the RSPB reserves. Dive the wrecks of the Scapa Flow naval anchorage, where much of the scuttled German High Seas Fleet from World War I still lies. Walk the coastal paths for dramatic cliff scenery, and in winter, watch for the aurora borealis on clear nights.

Orkney's food scene draws on its farming and fishing heritage: fresh seafood, particularly crab and scallops, Orkney beef and lamb, and a strong dairy tradition producing distinctive Orkney cheddar. Kirkwall and Stromness both have a good range of cafes and restaurants serving these local specialities, from casual fish and chips to more contemporary Scottish cooking. Vegetarian options are increasingly available in the main towns, though more limited in smaller villages.

Orkney is home to two well-regarded whisky distilleries, Highland Park and Scapa, both offering tours and tastings in Kirkwall. Local pubs serve Scottish ales alongside the whisky, and Orkney Brewery produces its own range of beers. Tap water is safe to drink throughout the islands.

• Budget: hostels and guesthouses in Kirkwall and Stromness, roughly £30-50/night.
• Mid-range: three-star hotels and B&Bs across Mainland, roughly £80-120/night.
• Upscale / heritage: a small number of characterful country house hotels and boutique properties, roughly £150-220/night.

Orkney is known for high-quality craft work, including Ola Gorie and other local jewellers working in Orkney-inspired silver and gold designs, hand-knitted textiles, and locally distilled spirits from Highland Park and Scapa distilleries in Kirkwall. Local food producers sell Orkney beef, cheese, and fudge, widely available in Kirkwall's shops.

• Shetland (a further ferry or flight north, about 6-8 hours by sea from Aberdeen) — Scotland's other northern archipelago, with its own strong Norse heritage.
• Caithness and the Scottish mainland Highlands (via ferry to Scrabster or Gills Bay) — dramatic north coast scenery including the NC500 route.
• Inverness (a drive or bus connection from the mainland ferry ports) — gateway city to the wider Scottish Highlands.
• Aberdeen (direct overnight ferry from Kirkwall) — Scotland's northeastern city and a hub for onward travel.