Sivas

Sivas is a historic city and province in north-central Anatolia, situated on a high-altitude plain at 1,278 meters elevation, roughly 450 kilometers east of Ankara. With a population of approximately 335,000, it serves as both an industrial center and a major transport hub connecting central Turkey to the eastern provinces. The province is defined by its dramatic continental climate—hot, dry summers and bitterly cold, snowy winters—which has shaped its agricultural economy around hardy wheat varieties and cereal production.

The city's most significant heritage lies in its extraordinary collection of 13th-century Seljuk madrasas, built by rival patrons who vied with one another for architectural splendor. These include the Buruciye Medrese, Çifte Minareli Madrasa, and Gök Medrese, each showcasing distinctive Seljuk stonework, tilework, and courtyard designs. Beyond the Islamic schools, Sivas played a pivotal role in modern Turkish history: it was here in 1919 that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk held the Sivas Congress, consolidating his leadership and launching the Turkish War of Independence.

The province extends across rugged terrain to the east and south, encompassing mountainous districts, hot springs at Sıcak Çermik, and the UNESCO World Heritage mosque at Divriği. Sivas offers travelers a window into Anatolia's layered past—from Roman foundations to Seljuk grandeur, Ottoman rule, and the birth of the modern Turkish republic.

The best time to visit Sivas is from May through September, when the high-altitude climate produces warm, dry days and pleasantly cool nights. Summer temperatures typically range from 25°C to 30°C during the day, but evenings can drop significantly due to the altitude, so bringing layers is advisable even in July and August.

Spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–October) bring milder temperatures and fewer tourists, though the shoulder seasons can be unpredictable with sudden cold snaps. Winter, from November through March, sees heavy snowfall and temperatures well below freezing, which can disrupt transport but also offers access to the ski lifts at Yıldız Dağı mountain resort 50 kilometers north of the city.

The Sivas Cultural and Tourism Festival, held annually in September, features traditional music, folk dances, and exhibitions celebrating the city's Seljuk heritage. The Congress anniversary in September also draws visitors interested in Turkish republican history. Plan around these events for a richer experience.

Sivas is well connected by air, rail, and road. Sivas Nuri Demirağ Airport (VAS) receives two daily flights from Istanbul (IST and SAW) taking about 90 minutes, plus regular service from İzmir. The airport offers car rental and is a 20-minute drive from the city center.

High-speed YHT trains connect Sivas to Ankara in approximately 2 hours 30 minutes, with three daily departures and two originating from Istanbul. The modern railway station, completed in 1934 and recently renovated, sits two kilometers southwest of the town center. Regional trains extend service eastward to Malatya and beyond via the Van Gölü Express and Doğu Express, though connections can be challenging to arrange. Buses from Istanbul run five or six times daily (about 12 hours), and from Ankara every two hours (about 7 hours), with Flixbus and Metroturizm as primary operators.

Within the city, municipal buses cover most routes and connect the train and bus stations to the center. Taxi fares average a 6 TL flagfall plus 11 TL per kilometer, making rides from the railway station around 30 TL and from the airport approximately 250 TL. For regional exploration, intercity buses reach Divriği (about 3 hours), Erzincan, and other eastern destinations.

• Sivas — the provincial capital and main base, home to the famous Seljuk madrasas and the Congress Museum
• Divriği — a UNESCO World Heritage site with a magnificent 13th-century mosque and hospital complex
• Kangal — the birthplace of the renowned Kangal shepherd dog breed, set in rolling steppe country
• Zara — a quiet district town with thermal springs and traditional village life
• Şarkışla — a market town known for its agricultural heritage and local crafts

Sivas is renowned for its distinctive Anatolian cuisine, with Sivas köfte (meatballs) standing as the signature dish—these elongated, hand-pressed köfte have a texture and flavor somewhat resembling pork sausage, served grilled or in rich tomato sauce. Other regional specialties include pezük (pickled vegetables), Sivas döner, Sivas kebap, sübüra (a type of flatbread), hurma (a sweet pastry), and yumurta erişte (egg noodles).

The area around Meydan (Cumhuriyet Square) is the main dining hub, with Lezzetçi being a popular spot for all the Turkish favorites, open from early morning until midnight. Serkan Bey and Komagene Çiğ Köfte Salonu offer local flavors, while Pizza Point provides international options. For a more atmospheric experience, the Kurşunlu Hammam area near the Behram Paşa Hotel has several traditional restaurants.

Sivas's agricultural economy means that fresh bread, dairy products, and seasonal produce are excellent. The Kangal district is known for its dairy products, and visiting during harvest season offers opportunities to taste freshly processed grains and local honey.

Sivas's cultural identity is deeply rooted in its Seljuk heritage and its role in the founding of the Turkish republic. The city's three rival madrasas—built within a year of each other in the 1270s—represent one of the finest collections of Seljuk architecture in Anatolia, with intricate stone carving, geometric tilework, and monumental gatehouses that continue to inspire.

The annual Sivas Cultural and Tourism Festival in September showcases traditional Turkish folk music, including türkü (folk songs) that are particularly associated with the Sivas region. Local artisans produce handcrafted silver jewelry, ornamental cigarette holders and pens, and the famous Sivas carpets and rugs, which feature distinctive geometric patterns and rich earth tones.

The Sivas Congress Museum (Sivas Atatürk ve Kongre Müzesi) commemorates the 1919 congress that shaped modern Turkey, housing mementoes from that era alongside ethnographic and archaeological collections. The city's cultural calendar also includes Ramadan celebrations with special mosque events and the Mevlana (Rumi) commemorations at local tekkes.

Explore the Seljuk Madrasa Circuit — a walking tour of Sivas's three famous madrasas (Buruciye, Çifte Minareli, and Gök Medrese) plus the earlier Şifaiye Medrese, each within easy distance of the central Meydan, revealing the architectural rivalry and artistic achievement of 13th-century Anatolia.

Take the Doğu Express train journey from Sivas eastward through dramatic mountain scenery to Divriği and beyond, experiencing one of Turkey's most scenic rail routes as it traverses the rugged interior of eastern Anatolia.

Visit the Divriği Great Mosque and Hospital, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring extraordinary carved stone portals and a mihrab of exceptional artistry—reachable as a day trip or overnight excursion from Sivas.

Soak in the thermal waters at Sıcak Çermik, the council-run geothermal spa 30 kilometers west of the city, where mineral-rich orange waters have been used for healing since antiquity.

Experience the Congress Museum and the birthplace of modern Turkey, where Atatürk's strategic brilliance transformed the nation's destiny, housed in the former high school building with its original furnishings and archival documents.