Giresun

Giresun is a Black Sea province in northeastern Turkey, defined by its steep, forested mountains that plunge dramatically to the coastline. The province is famous as the heartland of Turkey's hazelnut production — the rolling green hills are blanketed with hazelnut groves that supply a significant portion of the world's supply. The capital city of Giresun is a compact, pleasant port town of around 120,000, perched between the mountains and the sea, with a Genoese castle ruin overlooking the harbour and a lively waterfront.

The Black Sea coast here is characteristically lush and misty, with heavy rainfall sustaining dense forests of chestnut, alder, and beech. Behind the coastal strip, the mountains rise steeply into the Kaçkar range, offering some of Turkey's finest highland trekking. The province's villages cling to the mountainsides, connected by winding roads and footpaths, and maintain traditional Black Sea architecture and folk customs that differ markedly from western Turkey. The region's distinctive culture includes the horon — a fast-paced circle dance performed to the accompaniment of the kemençe (a small stringed instrument) — and a cuisine built around corn, tea, and fresh fish.

Giresun Island, visible from the harbour, is the only inhabited island off Turkey's Black Sea coast and is steeped in local legend as the realm of the Amazons. The province was part of the ancient Pontic Kingdom and later the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, with archaeological remains scattered throughout the coastal towns and mountain villages.

Summer (June to September) is the prime season, when the highlands are accessible and the weather is warm (20-25°C) though still rainy. July and August are warmest but also the wettest months. Spring (April to May) brings wildflowers to the highlands but heavy rain. Autumn (October to November) offers golden light and the hazelnut harvest, though temperatures drop quickly. Winter (December to March) brings heavy snow to the mountains and cool, wet conditions on the coast. The Giresun Festival (July) and the Aksu Horon Festival celebrate local folk traditions.

Giresun sits on the D010 highway along the Black Sea coast, 170 km west of Trabzon and 330 km east of Samsun. Buses from Istanbul take 14-16 hours via Ankara or the coastal route, from Trabzon 2-3 hours, and from Samsun 5 hours. The coastal highway connects all the Black Sea towns. The nearest airport is Trabzon (TZX), about 170 km east, with domestic flights from Istanbul, Ankara, and other cities. Dolmuşes connect Giresun to coastal towns and some mountain villages. Within the city, the compact centre is walkable. A rental car is essential for exploring the mountain villages and highland areas.

• Giresun — the provincial capital with its Genoese castle, waterfront, and island legend
• Bulancak — a coastal town east of Giresun with a fishing harbour
• Espiye — a small port town with pine forests behind
• Tirebolu — a town with a Genoese castle and tea plantations
• Görele — a coastal town known for its folk music tradition
• Şebinkarahisar — a mountain town with a castle and historical mosques
• Alucra — a remote highland town in the southern mountains
• Dereli — a town in the mountainous interior
• Keşap — a coastal settlement near Giresun
• Yağlıdere — a highland village with traditional Black Sea houses
• Eynesil — a quiet coastal town near the Trabzon border
• Piraziz — a small fishing village east of Giresun
• Doğankent — a mountain village in the Kaçkar foothills
• Çamoluk — a remote highland settlement
• Güce — a village in the southern mountains
• Çanakçı — a highland village near the Giresun-Trabzon border

Black Sea cuisine dominates, built on corn, tea, and freshwater fish. Kuymak (a rich, stretchy cheese and cornmeal fondue), hamsi tava (fried anchovies), and mısır ekmeği (cornbread) are staples. Karalahana çorbası (black cabbage soup) and pide (filled flatbread) are everyday fare. The region's tea plantations produce Turkey's beloved çay, and roadside tea gardens are everywhere. Hazelnuts feature in both savoury and sweet dishes. Fresh fish from the Black Sea — particularly hamsi (anchovies) and levrek (sea bass) — is served in waterfront restaurants. The cuisine is hearty and peasant-inspired, with limited vegetarian options outside the larger towns.

The Black Sea region's culture is distinct from the rest of Turkey, with strong connections to Georgian, Laz, and Hemşin traditions. The horon circle dance, performed to the frantic kemençe fiddle, is the region's most iconic cultural expression. Traditional Black Sea music features the kemençe, tulum (bagpipe), and karadeniz kemençesi. The Giresun Festival (July) features horon performances, folk music, and local food. The Aksu Horon Festival is another highlight. Architecture includes the distinctive Black Sea timber houses with their wide overhanging eaves. Village life revolves around the yayla (highland pasture), where families relocate in summer — a tradition called göç.

• Walk among the hazelnut groves that blanket the coastal hills during harvest season
• Watch (or join) a horon performance at a local festival or celebration
• Explore the Genoese castle ruins and the legend of Giresun Island
• Trek into the Kaçkar Mountains for alpine meadows and glacial lakes
• Visit highland villages and experience the summer yayla culture
• Sample kuymak and hamsi tava at a waterfront restaurant in Giresun