Çankırı

Çankırı Province occupies the wind-swept Anatolian steppe about 140 km north of Ankara, straddling the trade routes that once connected the Black Sea coast to the capital. The provincial capital Çankırı is a conservative, industrial town that feels much farther from Ankara than its 90-minute drive suggests. Once known as Gangra ("goats" in antiquity), the city served as a Byzantine exile destination and later became an Ottoman administrative center, leaving behind a cluster of historic mosques, madrasas, and a hilltop castle with panoramic views.

The province's landscape ranges from the barren, eroded hillsides of the central steppe — where wind-carved formations create an otherworldly terrain — to the deep green forests of Ilgaz Mountain in the north. The Tuz Caves (salt caves) southeast of the city have been mined for salt for over 5,000 years, with some tunnels now open as a show-cave museum. Çankırı is an off-the-beaten-path destination that rewards those seeking genuine Anatolian culture, untouched nature, and a glimpse of provincial Turkish life far from the tourist trail.

Summer (June–August) is the most pleasant time, with warm but not scorching temperatures ideal for exploring Ilgaz Mountain's forests and the salt caves. Winter (December–March) brings heavy snowfall to the northern highlands, making Ilgaz Mountain a modest but uncrowded skiing destination. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer mild conditions for hiking and visiting the steppe landscapes, though the wind can be persistent year-round. The Ilgaz Mountain Winter Sports Festival typically takes place in February or March, drawing local skiers and snowboarders.

Çankırı is accessible by bus from Ankara (2 hours, hourly service via Özlem) and from Kastamonu (2 hours, every couple of hours). The railway from Ankara to Zonguldak passes through the province but service has been suspended for extended engineering works. The bus station is 500 m south of the town center. Within the city, the compact old town and central sights are walkable. A rental car is essential for reaching the salt caves (18 km southeast), Ilgaz Mountain National Park (60 km north), and the scattered villages across the province. There are no internal public transport services between the smaller towns.

• Çankırı — the provincial capital with Ottoman mosques, a hilltop castle, and restored historic houses
• Ilgaz Mountain National Park — a forested mountain range with skiing in winter and hiking in summer
• Çerkeş — a town known for its traditional stone architecture
• Kurşunlu — a settlement near waterfalls and natural pools
• Orta — a small town with Ottoman-era buildings
• Şabanözü — a rural town in the province's interior
• Eldivan — a quiet settlement with agricultural traditions
• Korgun — a village in the steppe landscape
• Kızılırmak — a settlement on the Red River, Turkey's longest internal river
• Atkaracalar — a remote highland village
• Bayramören — a small settlement in the northern forests
• Yapraklı — a mountain village near Ilgaz

Çankırı's cuisine reflects the pastoral traditions of the Anatolian steppe. The signature specialty is etli ekmek, a thin flatbread topped with minced meat, onions, and herbs — similar to pide but thinner and crispier. Tirit, a dish of torn bread soaked in broth and topped with meat, is another local staple. The region is known for its dairy products, particularly tulum peyniri (aged goat cheese) and fresh yogurt. Grilled lamb and kebabs feature prominently, reflecting the semi-nomadic heritage of the area. Dining is simple and unpretentious — small lokantas ( eateries) along Atatürk Bulvarı serve honest, filling meals at modest prices. Vegetarian options are limited but lentil soup, cheese pide, and fresh bread with olives are reliable choices.

Çankırı's cultural heritage centers on its Ottoman religious buildings, particularly the Büyük Cami (Grand Mosque, built 1522–1558) with its rich interior, and the 17th-century Çivitçioğlu Madrasa, now a cultural center demonstrating traditional paper marbling (ebru) and calligraphy. The Buğday Pazarı Medresesi is an 18th-century wooden building housing a craft center for traditional clothing and kitchenware. The Ilgaz Mountain area is known for its winter sports traditions, and the annual festival celebrates both skiing and local folk culture. Traditional crafts include wool weaving, kilim production, and wooden utensil carving. The province maintains strong connections to its Turkmen nomadic heritage, visible in village festivals and pastoral celebrations.

• Exploring the Tuz Caves — descending into 5,000-year-old salt mining tunnels, now a cool underground museum
• Skiing at Ilgaz Mountain — uncrowded slopes in a national park setting, a fraction of the bustle of Uludağ or Erciyes
• Walking Çankırı's old town alleys — discovering restored Ottoman houses and the hilltop castle with panoramic steppe views
• Experiencing the Anatolian steppe — driving through the eroded, wind-sculpted landscapes that define central Turkey's interior
• Visiting a paper marbling workshop — watching the centuries-old ebru art form demonstrated at the Çivitçioğlu Madrasa