Aksaray

Aksaray is a province in Turkey's Central Anatolia region, 240 km southeast of Ankara and just 50 km west of the Cappadocia tourist circuit. Despite sitting at the crossroads of major highways and being steeped in Silk Road history, Aksaray remains highly underrated — a lively, authentic Central Anatolian city and province with barely any international tourists, cheap accommodation, and a wealth of fascinating sights within easy reach. The province occupies the wide, arid Anatolian steppe, punctuated by the twin-peaked dormant volcano Hasan Dağı (3,253 m) and the vast salt flats of Tuz Gölü (Salt Lake), Turkey's second-largest lake.

The city's history stretches back to the Persian kingdom of Cappadocia, when it was known as Archelaïs. Under Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman rule it served as a key Silk Road trading post between Konya and eastern Anatolia. The Seljuks in particular left their mark with magnificent caravanserais, medreses, and mosques, many still standing. The name Aksaray ("white palace") dates to the Ottoman period, and many residents later relocated to Istanbul — there is still an Aksaray neighbourhood in that city today.

The province's star attraction is arguably the Ihlara Valley, a dramatic 16-km-long gorge with rock-cut Byzantine churches, and the surreal Cappadocia-like landscape around Güzelyurt. Combined with the otherworldly salt flats of Tuz Gölü, the Seljuk Sultan Han caravanserai, and the volcanic landscape of Hasan Dağı, Aksaray offers a depth of experience that belies its reputation as merely a transit point on the road to Cappadocia.

The best months to visit Aksaray are April through June and September through October, when daytime temperatures are pleasant (20–28°C) and the steppe landscape is at its most appealing. Spring (April–May) brings green fields and wildflowers to the plateau, while autumn offers warm days and clear skies ideal for hiking in Ihlara Valley and ascending Hasan Dağı.

Summers (July–August) are hot and dry, with temperatures exceeding 35°C, though the low humidity makes it bearable. Tuz Gölü is at its most spectacular in early summer (May–June), when ankle-deep water creates mirror-like reflections of the sky, and migratory birds throng its lagoons. By late summer the lake dries into a stark white salt desert. Winters are cold and snowy on the steppe, with temperatures dropping well below freezing, though the Sultan Han caravanserai and museums remain accessible. There are no major festivals specific to the province, though Ramadan and Sugar Bayram affect commercial schedules.

Aksaray is well-connected by road, sitting at the junction of the D300 (east-west, Kayseri–Konya) and D750 (north-south) highways. Intercity buses run hourly from Istanbul (10 hours) and every 1–2 hours from Ankara (3.5 hours). The main otogar is 4 km west of the centre; local dolmuşes connect it to downtown. There is no railway service to Aksaray.

Within the province, dolmuşes radiate from the Eski Garaj (old bus station) on Atatürk Boulevard in the city centre to all district towns. Services to Güzelyurt and Ihlara Valley depart from the Tuesday Market area. Renting a car is highly recommended for exploring the scattered caravanserais, Tuz Gölü, and the Ihlara–Güzelyurt area at your own pace. Roads are generally good, though some rural routes are unpaved. Taxis are available in the city but scarce in outlying districts. The nearest airports are at Kayseri (Erkilet, 160 km east) and Ankara (Esenboğa, 240 km northwest).

• Aksaray — the provincial capital, a surprisingly charming city with Seljuk and Ottoman monuments including the Red Mosque and leaning minaret, Zinciriye Medrese, and the Grand Mosque
• Ortaköy — a district on the road to Ankara with traditional Central Anatolian village character and agricultural surroundings
• Eskil — a northern district near Tuz Gölü, offering access to the lake's pink-tinted southeastern pools and salt flats
• Gülağaç — a district near the entrance to Ihlara Valley and the Cappadocia-like landscape of fairy chimneys and rock formations
• Ağaçören — a quiet, rural district in the northwest of the province with a traditional steppe landscape
• Güzelyurt — a picturesque cliff-side town with rock-cut churches, cave houses, and a stunning gorge setting, often called the "hidden Cappadocia"
• Sarıyahşi — a small district in the eastern part of the province with a tranquil, rural character
• Sultanhanı — home to the magnificent Sultan Han caravanserai, one of the finest Seljuk structures in Turkey

Aksaray's cuisine is quintessentially Central Anatolian — hearty, grain-based, and built around lamb, dairy, and seasonal vegetables. Signature dishes include testi kebabı (meat stew sealed and slow-cooked in a clay pot, cracked open at the table), etli ekmek (a long, thin flatbread topped with minced meat, similar to Konya's famous dish), and mantı (tiny dumplings with yoghurt and spiced butter). The province's proximity to Konya means its food culture shares many traits with that celebrated culinary city.

Sheep's milk yoghurt and local cheeses feature prominently. Çorba (soup), particularly lentil and tripe varieties, is a staple at every meal. Pide bakeries and lokantas (casual eateries) around the Eski Garaj and Atatürk Boulevard offer affordable, filling meals. Künefe (shredded pastry with sweet cheese, soaked in syrup) is a popular dessert — try it at dedicated shops near the centre. Vegetarian travellers can find gözleme (stuffed flatbreads), cheese pide, and seasonal vegetable stews. Tea houses serve as social centres throughout the province.

Aksaray's cultural life is shaped by its position at the crossroads of Anatolian civilisations. The Seljuk architectural heritage — caravanserais, medreses, mosques, and baths — is the province's defining cultural treasure and a source of local pride. The Karamanoğlu dynasty's 1408 Grand Mosque (Ulu Camii) and the 1336 Zinciriye Medrese are living links to the medieval Islamic scholarly tradition that flourished here along the Silk Road.

Local folk traditions include Central Anatolian halay dances, performed at weddings and celebrations with davul (drum) and zurna (reed pipe). Carpet weaving continues in some villages, producing rugs with Turkmen and Yörük motifs. The Aksaray Museum showcases regional history and prehistory, while the Science Museum (Aksaray Bilim Merkezi) offers child-friendly exhibits. The annual Cappadocia region tourism events in nearby Nevşehir spill over into Aksaray's tourist sites. Village life follows agricultural rhythms — harvest festivals and communal meals mark the seasonal calendar.

• Ihlara Valley gorge hike — descend into a dramatic 16-km canyon carved by the Melendiz River, walking among rock-cut Byzantine churches with frescoes, cave dwellings, and lush riverside vegetation, one of Cappadocia's most spectacular natural settings
• Sultan Han caravanserai exploration — visit the magnificent 1229 Seljuk caravanserai, one of the finest and best-preserved in Turkey, with its ornate marble gateway, summer courtyard with a kiosk mosque, and covered winter hall
• Tuz Gölü salt flats — walk out onto the surreal white expanse of Turkey's great Salt Lake, especially in early summer when ankle-deep water creates a mirror reflecting the sky, or visit the pink-tinted pools in the southeast
• Güzelyurt cliff village — explore this atmospheric Cappadocia-like town carved into volcanic cliffs, with rock-cut churches, cave houses, and a dramatic gorge setting away from tourist crowds
• Hasan Dağı summit ascent — climb the dormant twin-peaked volcano (3,253 m) south of Aksaray, the last volcano to erupt in Central Anatolia, for panoramic views across the steppe and toward Cappadocia