Speyside

Speyside is a tiny fishing village on Tobago's northeast coast, tucked between the Main Ridge Forest Reserve and the Caribbean Sea. It is one of the most remote and tranquil settlements on the island, with a population of a few hundred. The village's claim to fame is its world-class diving — the Kelleston Drain, a submerged pinnacle, is home to the world's largest recorded brain coral — and its proximity to Little Tobago, an uninhabited island that serves as a protected bird sanctuary.

Speyside sits at the foot of the Main Ridge, with steep, forested hills rising sharply behind the village. The coastline is rocky with small sheltered bays, and the waters offshore are part of a marine protected area. The village has a handful of small hotels and guesthouses catering primarily to divers and birdwatchers, with minimal nightlife or commercial activity.

By Plane

A.N.R. Robinson International Airport (TAB) at Crown Point is 40 km southwest. Taxis cost TT$100–150; the drive takes about 1 hour via the coastal road through Scarborough, across the Main Ridge, and along the east coast.

By Car / Road

Speyside is on the northeast coast road, about 20 minutes north of Roxborough and 40 minutes northeast of Scarborough. The road from Scarborough crosses the Main Ridge via a scenic but winding mountain pass before descending to the east coast. A car or 4WD is recommended.

Speyside village is walkable — everything is within a 10-minute walk. Boats to Little Tobago depart from the Speyside jetty. A car is needed to explore beyond the village. Taxis are very scarce — pre-arrange transport.

• Little Tobago island — An uninhabited island 1 km offshore, accessible by boat from Speyside (TT$50–100 return). A protected bird sanctuary with hiking trails, home to red-billed tropicbirds, frigate birds, and other seabirds. The island was used for guano harvesting in the 19th century.

• Kelleston Drain — The submerged pinnacle offshore from Speyside, home to the world's largest brain coral (estimated at over 3 m diameter). Visible on diving and snorkelling trips.

• Speyside reef system — The marine protected area around Speyside has some of the healthiest coral reefs in Tobago, with excellent visibility.

• Diving — Speyside is Tobago's premier dive destination. Operators offer reef, wall, and drift dives at sites including the Kelleston Drain, Japanese Gardens, and Divers Thirst. Expect TT$250–400 per dive. Visibility is typically 15–30 m.

• Snorkelling — The reefs close to shore offer excellent snorkelling without needing a boat. The area around the Blue Waters Inn has good access.

• Birdwatching on Little Tobago — The boat trip to Little Tobago includes a guided walk to spot tropicbirds, boobies, and other seabirds. Best in the morning.

• Hiking the Main Ridge — Trailheads near Speyside lead into the forest reserve, with guided walks available through local operators.

Dining in Speyside is limited to the restaurants at the small hotels — primarily the Blue Waters Inn, which serves Caribbean and international cuisine with fresh seafood. A few local vendors sell simple Creole meals (fish, rice, provision). Self-catering is practical if you bring supplies. Budget TT$40–80 per meal at the hotel restaurant.

The bar at Blue Waters Inn serves cocktails, local beers, and rum. There are a few informal rum shops in the village. The atmosphere is quiet — Speyside is not a nightlife destination.

• Budget: A few guesthouses and homestays in the village (TT$250–400/night). Properties are basic.
• Mid-range: Blue Waters Inn — the village's main hotel, set on a waterfront property with its own reef for snorkelling, dive shop, and restaurant (US$120–200/night).
• Upscale: No true luxury properties; Blue Waters Inn is the most comfortable option.

Speyside has no shops. Basic supplies can be found in Roxborough (15 minutes south) or Scarborough (40 minutes southwest). Bring any essentials with you.

• Charlotteville — 20 minutes north; a remote fishing village with Pirates Bay and Man O' War Bay.
• Roxborough — 15 minutes south; gateway to the Main Ridge Forest Reserve.
• Scarborough — 40 minutes southwest; the island capital with Fort St George and the market.
• Castara — 1 hour west via the mountain road; a peaceful bay village on the northwest coast.