Ko Chang

Ko Chang (เกาะช้าง, "Elephant Island") is Thailand's third-largest island (after Phuket and Ko Samui) and the undisputed star of Trat Province. Roughly 30 km long by 14 km wide, it is a mountainous, rainforest-covered island dominated by Khao Salak Phet (744 m), with a long string of white-sand beaches along its west coast and a quieter, less-developed eastern side. About 5,000 permanent residents live on the island, though tourism has grown dramatically since the early 2000s — basic bungalows have given way to resorts, while still maintaining a jungle-and-beach atmosphere.

The island has a notable history: in January 1941, the waters off Ko Chang were the site of a naval battle between Thailand and France, part of the Franco-Thai War. Before that, Ko Chang was a quiet coconut-and-fruit-growing backwater. The first backpackers arrived by fishing boat in the mid-1970s, and in 1982 the island and its surrounding waters were protected as part of Mu Ko Chang National Marine Park, covering 650 km² (70% offshore).

Ko Chang's climate mirrors the Thai southwest monsoon: the cool, dry season (November–February) is ideal, with calm seas and sunny days. March–May is hot but dry. The rainy season (June–October) brings heavy rainfall — around 4,000 mm annually — and many smaller guesthouses close. Most accommodation clusters on the west-coast beaches: White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao, the busiest), Klong Prao, Kai Bae, and Lonely Beach (a backpacker hub with a slightly edgy vibe).

By Plane

Bangkok Airways flies from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) to Trat Airport (TDX IATA) three times daily (1 hr, 1,800–3,300 baht). Minibus transfers from Trat Airport to Ko Chang resorts cost around 500 baht/person one way including the ferry.

By Car / Road

From Bangkok's Ekamai Terminal, Government Bus 999 goes directly to Laem Ngop (268 baht, 5+ hr), where ferries depart for the island. From Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bus 392 by Suvarnabhumi Burapha Bus Company runs to the pier (600 baht). Direct minibuses from Khao San Road cost around 300 baht and drop you at Centrepoint pier. From the Cambodian border at Hat Lek, minibuses run to Trat (140 baht, 90 min), where you connect to Laem Ngop. By car, take Highway 3 from Bangkok to Trat (~315 km), then follow signs to Laem Ngop.

Ferries from the mainland: Most ferries depart from Laem Ngop. The car ferry takes about 1 hour and arrives at Tha Ferry Dan Kao pier. Passenger ferries and speedboats (45 min) serve the Dan Kao piers. Centrepoint pier also operates vehicle and passenger ferries. Fares: around 80 baht for foot passenger on the car ferry, 150–300 baht for speedboats.

The only form of public transport on Ko Chang is the songthaew — shared pick-up trucks that run the main west-coast road. Daytime fares are 50–200 baht/person depending on distance. After 17:00, drivers often quote "taxi" prices (up to 500 baht from Lonely Beach to Dan Kao pier). Motorbike rental (200–400 baht/day) is the most popular way to explore the island; a 4WD is advisable in the rainy season on the steep roads near Lonely Beach. Most hotels can arrange car rental.

• Klong Plu Waterfall (น้ำตกคลองพลู) — the most popular waterfall on the island, with a large pool for swimming, a 20-minute walk from the main road. 200 baht entry for foreigners.

• Klong Nonsi Waterfall (น้ำตกคลองนนทรี) — a three-tiered cascade deeper in the jungle, accessible by a 1.5 km trek from Ban Khlong Nonsi.

• Than Mayom Waterfall (น้ำตกธารมะยม) — on the east side, near a royal residence of King Rama VII.

• Salak Phet (บ้านสลักเพชร) — the oldest community on the island, a fishing village on the sheltered southeast coast with Wat Salak Phet temple.

• Bang Bao Fishing Village (หมู่บ้านประมงบางเบ้า) — a stilted village of houses and shops built over the water at the southern tip, now a busy tourist hub with seafood restaurants and dive shops.

• Ko Chang Naval Battle Monument — a small memorial on the island's east side, commemorating the 1941 Franco-Thai battle.

• White Sand Beach (หาดทรายขาว) — the main tourist strip, lined with resorts, bars, and restaurants.

• Scuba diving and snorkelling — Ko Chang is the main departure point for dive trips to Ko Rang, Ko Wai, and the wreck of HTMS Chang, a former naval vessel sunk as an artificial reef. Dozens of dive shops offer PADI courses and fun dives.

• Jungle trekking — hike to waterfalls through rainforest on the mountainous spine of the island. Many trails start near the west-coast beaches and ascend to viewpoints like Khao Salak Phet.

• Kayaking — explore the mangrove-lined estuaries of Salak Phet and Bang Bao, or paddle around the headlands between west-coast bays.

• Elephant trekking — several camps near Klong Prao offer elephant rides and bathing experiences (always check welfare standards).

• Nightlife — Lonely Beach and White Sand Beach have the liveliest scenes, with beach bars, fire shows, and parties.

• Sunset at Kai Bae Viewpoint — a scenic lookout on the road between Kai Bae and Klong Prao offering panoramic island views at golden hour.

Ko Chang's food scene covers Thai classics, fresh seafood, and Western comfort food. White Sand Beach has the widest choice, from cheap pad Thai stalls to upscale seafood restaurants. Lonely Beach is known for its backpacker-friendly eateries and international options including Mexican, Indian, and Italian. Bang Bao is famous for seafood restaurants built on stilts over the water — choose your own fish, crab, or lobster from the tanks. Expect to pay 60–100 baht for a simple Thai dish at budget places, 150–400 baht for seafood and Western mains. Vegetarian and vegan options are widely available, especially around Lonely Beach.

Beach bars line the west coast, particularly at White Sand Beach (upmarket cocktail bars), Kai Bae (chilled reggae bars), and Lonely Beach (party bars with fire shows). The Sunset Bar on Kai Bae Beach offers drinks overlooking the sea at dusk. Most bars serve Singha, Chang, Leo beer (40–80 baht), cocktails (100–250 baht). Fresh fruit shakes (30–60 baht) are ubiquitous. Tap water is not drinkable — bottled water is cheap and sold everywhere.

• Budget: Lonely Beach has numerous bungalow operations from 300–600 baht; Little Hut and Siam Bay Resort offer basic fan bungalows. White Sand Beach also has budget guesthouses from 400–600 baht in the off-season.
• Mid-range: Klong Prao and Kai Bae offer good-value bungalows with air-con, hot water, and pool access (1,000–2,500 baht). Keereta Resort and The Chill Resort are reliable mid-range choices.
• Upscale: White Sand Beach has several upscale resorts (3,000–8,000 baht), including the Awa Resort and Mercure Koh Chang Hideaway. The Santhiya Tree resort on Klong Prao Bay offers luxury villas.

White Sand Beach and Bang Bao have rows of souvenir shops selling T-shirts, beachwear, handicrafts, jewellery, and Thai silk. Night markets at White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach sell clothing and accessories. For groceries and supplies, there are small supermarkets on the main road. ATMs are widely available in the main tourist areas. Most diving is paid in cash or by card at the dive shops.

• Ko Mak (1 hr by speedboat) — a small, laid-back island with quiet beaches and a focus on eco-tourism.
• Ko Kut (1.5–2 hr by speedboat) — serene, upscale island with waterfalls, white-sand beaches, and excellent diving.
• Ko Wai (30 min by speedboat) — a tiny island with great snorkelling and coral reefs, part of Mu Ko Chang National Park.
• Laem Ngop (45 min by ferry) — the mainland ferry port with the Naval Battle Monument.
• Ban Nam Chiao (1 hr) — a community tourism village on the mainland, famous for ngop hat weaving.