Graubünden

Graubünden is Switzerland's largest and easternmost canton, covering 7,105 square kilometers across high alpine valleys, granite massifs, and river basins. Situated in southeastern Switzerland, it borders Austria to the north and Italy to the south and east. The cantonal capital is Chur, located on the Rhine River. Graubünden serves as Europe's central hydrological watershed, sending water via the Rhine to the North Sea, the Inn (a tributary of the Danube) to the Black Sea, and the Moesa to the Mediterranean.

The canton maintains a trilingual status where German, Romansh, and Italian are official languages. German is spoken by roughly three-quarters of the population, while Romansh — a Rhaeto-Romance language derived from Latin — is spoken predominantly in the Engadin and Surselva valleys. Italian is native to southern valleys like the Val Poschiavo and Val Bregaglia. Architecture across the region reflects regional heritage, notably through sgraffito — decorative geometric plasterwork carved into building facades in villages like Zuoz and Scuol.

Graubünden features an Alpine continental climate with distinct temperature zones defined by altitude. Valleys around Chur (at 590 meters) experience summer temperatures between 18°C and 26°C (64°F to 79°F), while high alpine areas like St. Moritz (at 1,822 meters) see summer averages of 12°C to 20°C (54°F to 68°F). Winter temperatures across mountain valleys drop to between -12°C and 2°C (10°F to 36°F), accompanied by heavy snow cover from December through March.

Peak Winter (December to March): Winter brings cold temperatures (-10°C to 2°C / 14°F to 36°F) and consistent snowfall to elevations above 1,000 meters. This season attracts skiers, cross-country racers, and winter hikers to resorts like St. Moritz, Davos, Laax, and Arosa. January hosts the World Economic Forum in Davos, leading to hotel shortages and high room rates across northern Graubünden.

Peak Summer (June to September): Summer offers warm, clear weather with valley temperatures between 16°C and 25°C (61°F to 77°F). Higher hiking trails and mountain passes open fully by late June. Afternoon thunderstorms occur regularly in July and August. This period is best suited for high-altitude trekking, mountain biking, thermal spas, and scenic train trips.

Shoulder Seasons (April–May & October–November): Autumn (September to October) features clear skies and foliage changes in the golden larch forests of the Engadin, with temperatures ranging from 6°C to 16°C (43°F to 61°F). Spring (April to May) brings snowmelt and rain; high-altitude cable cars close for seasonal maintenance during these months, though valley towns like Chur remain fully accessible.

By Bus

Long-distance and international express buses serve Chur train station (Gürtelstrasse 35).

• FlixBus (from Zurich): Direct buses run 2 to 4 times daily from Zurich Central Bus Station (Sihlquai) or Zurich Airport to Chur. Journey time: 1 hour 25 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. Fares cost CHF 15.00 to CHF 23.00 ($18.75–$28.75 USD) one way.
• FlixBus (from Munich, Germany): Direct buses operate 1 to 2 times daily, taking 3 hours 45 minutes to reach Chur. Fares cost CHF 22.00 to CHF 35.00 ($27.50–$43.75 USD) one way.
• PostAuto (Route 171 from Bellinzona): Yellow regional buses run 4 to 6 times daily connecting Bellinzona (Ticino) to Chur via the San Bernardino Pass tunnel. Journey time: 1 hour 45 minutes. Fares cost CHF 24.00 ($30.00 USD) one way.
• Tickets are booked online via FlixBus or at station counters and PostAuto drivers.

By Train

Rail service across Graubünden is operated by Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) and the narrow-gauge Rhaetian Railway (RhB).

• From Zurich HB to Chur (SBB): InterCity (IC3) and InterRegio (IR35) trains depart every 30 minutes. Journey time: 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 25 minutes. Standard full-fare 2nd class tickets cost CHF 42.00 ($52.50 USD); 1st class costs CHF 72.00 ($90.00 USD). Supersaver tickets start from CHF 21.00 ($26.25 USD).
• Chur to St. Moritz (RhB Albula Line): Hourly trains run along the UNESCO-listed route via Filisur and Thusis. Journey time: 2 hours 00 minutes. Standard 2nd class tickets cost CHF 41.00 ($51.25 USD); 1st class costs CHF 72.00 ($90.00 USD).
• Bernina Express (RhB): Panoramic trains run daily from Chur or St. Moritz over the Bernina Pass to Tirano, Italy. Journey time: 4 hours 15 minutes from Chur. Standard rail fare plus compulsory seat reservation fee of CHF 26.00 to CHF 36.00 ($32.50–$45.00 USD) depending on season.
• Glacier Express (RhB & MGB): Express panoramic service connects Zermatt to St. Moritz via Chur. Journey time for full route: 8 hours. Standard fare plus mandatory seat reservation fee of CHF 49.00 ($61.25 USD).

By Car

The primary road access is the A13 motorway (Autobahn A13 / E43).

• From Zurich: 120 km southeast via the A3 and A13 motorways to Chur (1 hour 15 minutes drive time).
• From Milan (Italy): 210 km north via the SS36 and A13 motorways through the San Bernardino Tunnel (2 hours 45 minutes drive time).
• Mountain Pass Access: High passes including the Julier Pass (2,284m), Bernina Pass (2,328m), Albula Pass (2,312m), and Flüela Pass (2,383m) connect individual valleys. The Julier and Bernina passes remain open year-round, while Albula and Flüela close between November and May.
• Driving on Swiss motorways requires an annual toll vignette costing CHF 40.00 ($50.00 USD), displayed on the vehicle windshield.

By Air

No commercial air service operates within Graubünden. Samedan Airport (IATA: SMV) in the Upper Engadin serves private and charter aviation only.

• Zurich Airport (IATA: ZRH): Located 130 km northwest of Chur. Served by SWISS, Lufthansa, British Airways, United, and major international carriers. Direct SBB trains travel from the airport station to Chur in 1 hour 25 minutes (ticket CHF 42.00 / $52.50 USD 2nd class).
• EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (IATA: BSL): Located 220 km northwest (2 hours 30 minutes by train or car).
• Milan Malpensa Airport (IATA: MXP): Located 210 km south in Italy (2 hours 45 minutes by car or 3 hours 45 minutes by train via Chiasso).

• Rhaetian Railway (RhB): Narrow-gauge trains form the primary transport grid across Graubünden, linking Chur with Davos, Klosters, St. Moritz, Scuol, and Poschiavo. Trains run hourly on most branches.
• PostAuto Regional Buses: Yellow buses connect railway stations to outlying mountain hamlets and side valleys (e.g. Thusis to Vals or Chur to Lenzerheide). Single tickets range from CHF 4.00 to CHF 25.00 ($5.00–$31.25 USD) based on distance.
• City & Urban Buses: Chur Bus operates urban transit lines in the capital, while Engadin Bus covers St. Moritz, Samedan, and Pontresina. Single urban fares cost CHF 3.20 to CHF 5.60 ($4.00–$7.00 USD).
• Regional Passes: The GraubündenPass provides unlimited travel on RhB trains and PostAuto lines within the canton. Fares: 2 days out of 5 costs CHF 113.00 ($141.25 USD) for 2nd class or CHF 163.00 ($203.75 USD) for 1st class; 5 days out of 14 costs CHF 163.00 ($203.75 USD) for 2nd class or CHF 233.00 ($291.25 USD) for 1st class. The Swiss Travel Pass and Half Fare Card are valid on all main train and PostAuto routes.
• Apps: Mobile ticketing is handled via the SBB Mobile app, RhB app, or Fairtiq app, which calculates route fares automatically based on GPS check-in/check-out.
• Taxis & Ride-Hailing: Taxi stands are located outside train stations in Chur, Davos, and St. Moritz. Rates begin at CHF 6.00 ($7.50 USD) base fee plus CHF 4.00 ($5.00 USD) per kilometer. Uber has minimal presence in Graubünden; taxi ordering via telephone or hotel desks is standard practice.

1. Swiss National Park Visitor Centre (Zernez) — Located at the edge of Switzerland's only national park, protecting 170 square kilometers of alpine forest, meadows, and wildlife. Entry to the park's 80 km of trails is free. Visitor Centre exhibition in Zernez: Adults CHF 9.00 ($11.25 USD), Children aged 6–16 CHF 5.00 ($6.25 USD), Family ticket CHF 20.00 ($25.00 USD).
2. Viamala Gorge (Thusis) — A 300-meter-deep canyon cut into slate rock by the Hinterrhein River. Visitors navigate 359 carved stone steps and secure pathways down into the gorge floor. Entry: Adults CHF 10.00 ($12.50 USD), Children aged 6–16 CHF 6.00 ($7.50 USD). Open May through October.
3. 7132 Therme (Vals) — Thermal bath facility constructed from 60,000 slabs of local green quartzite, designed by Pritzker Prize winner Peter Zumthor. The baths are fed by 30°C spring water. Day pass entry: Adults CHF 70.00 to CHF 85.00 ($87.50–$106.25 USD) depending on day of week. Advance online reservation required.
4. Lake Cauma (Caumasee, Flims) — A turquoise mountain lake surrounded by pine forests, supplied by subterranean thermal sources. Summer bathing beach entry: Adults CHF 18.00 ($22.50 USD), Children up to age 16 CHF 9.00 ($11.25 USD). Perimeter walking paths remain open for free public access year-round.
5. Rhine Gorge / Ruinaulta (Flims / Ilanz) — A 14-km-long canyon created by prehistoric rockslides, featuring white limestone cliffs rising 400 meters above the Rhine River. Viewing platforms, including Il Spir near Conn, provide access points. Entry: Free. One-way RhB train through the canyon costs CHF 11.20 ($14.00 USD).
6. Landwasser Viaduct (Filisur) — A 65-meter-high, 6-arched limestone rail bridge constructed in 1902 along the RhB Albula line. Two public viewing platforms are accessible via a 20-minute walking trail from Filisur train station. Entry: Free.
7. Tarasp Castle (Schloss Tarasp, Scuol) — An 11th-century hilltop fortress in the Lower Engadin containing 50 restored rooms, armor collections, and a 2,500-pipe organ. Guided tour entry: Adults CHF 13.00 to CHF 15.00 ($16.25–$18.75 USD), Children aged 7–15 CHF 8.00 ($10.00 USD).

1. Ride the Bernina Express — Travel along the UNESCO World Heritage railway line from Chur over the Bernina Pass (2,253m) down to Tirano in Italy, passing the Morteratsch Glacier and crossing the 360-degree Brusio Spiral Viaduct. Standard fare CHF 66.00 ($82.50 USD) 2nd class + required seat reservation CHF 26.00 to CHF 36.00 ($32.50–$45.00 USD).
2. Ski and Snowboard LAAX or St. Moritz — Ride 224 km of slopes, four snowparks, and Europe's largest halfpipe at LAAX (Day lift pass CHF 75.00–CHF 89.00 / $93.75–$111.25 USD). Alternatively, access the alpine ski slopes of Corviglia, Diavolezza, and Corvatsch in St. Moritz (Dynamic Snow-Deal day pass CHF 75.00–CHF 105.00 / $93.75–$131.25 USD).
3. Trek the Greina Plateau — Hike across a tundra-like high mountain plateau situated at 2,200 meters between the Surselva valley and Ticino. Trailheads in Vrin or Tenigerbad connect to marked alpine routes. Trail access: Free; night stays at SAC mountain huts (like Camona da Greina) cost CHF 75.00 to CHF 95.00 ($93.75–$118.75 USD) including half-board.
4. Downhill Biking at Bikepark Lenzerheide — Ride five downhill and flow trails serviced by cable cars, hosting world cup mountain bike competitions. Day bike pass: CHF 52.00 to CHF 62.00 ($65.00–$77.50 USD).
5. Soak at Bogn Engiadina Thermal Baths (Scuol) — Relax in six indoor and outdoor saltwater mineral pools, saunas, and Roman-Irish bath circuits fed by local spring water in Scuol. Adult 3-hour entry pass: CHF 34.00 ($42.50 USD).

1. Veltliner Stube at Hotel Stern (Chur) — A historic dining room in Chur operating since 1677. Serves traditional Bündner dishes including Capuns (chard parcels stuffed with spätzle dough and landjäger sausage baked in milk cream), Maluns (crispy pan-fried potato crumbles), and venison stew. Price tier: Mid-range (Main courses CHF 24.00–CHF 48.00 / $30.00–$60.00 USD).
2. Restaurant Hofkellerei (Chur) — Located inside the historic Episcopal Court of Chur. Specializes in local Alpine food, Bündnerfleisch (paper-thin air-dried beef), homemade Pizokel dumplings, and Pinot Noir wines from the nearby Bündner Herrschaft region. Price tier: Mid-range to Upscale (Main courses CHF 28.00–CHF 54.00 / $35.00–$67.50 USD).
3. Chesa Veglia (St. Moritz) — A converted 1658 farmhouse containing three dining venues including Pizzeria Heuboden and Grill Chüchli. Serves wood-fired pizzas with truffles, Swiss cheese fondue, and charcoal-grilled steaks. Price tier: Upscale (Main courses CHF 34.00–CHF 85.00 / $42.50–$106.25 USD).
4. Gasthaus Krone (Malans) — Located in the Bündner Herrschaft wine region. Offers seasonal Swiss dishes, roasted venison, and local cheeses paired with estate-grown wines. Price tier: Mid-range to Upscale (Main courses CHF 32.00–CHF 58.00 / $40.00–$72.50 USD).
5. Bäckerei Meier (Scuol) — Artisanal Engadin bakery in Scuol village center preparing traditional Engadiner Nusstorte (shortcrust pastry filled with caramelized walnuts and honey) and local fruit breads. Price tier: Budget (Pastries and tarts CHF 4.50–CHF 14.00 / $5.63–$17.50 USD).

• Budget: Viva Hostel (Chur) — Central hostel located 500 meters from Chur train station, offering private twin rooms and dormitory beds with shared kitchen facilities. Rates: CHF 45.00 to CHF 95.00 ($56.25–$118.75 USD) per night.
• Budget: Youth Hostel St. Moritz (St. Moritz Bad) — Modern alpine hostel situated next to ski shuttle lines, providing heated dorms, private family rooms, and breakfast. Rates: CHF 55.00 to CHF 120.00 ($68.75–$150.00 USD) per night.
• Mid-Range: Romantik Hotel Stern (Chur) — Historic hotel operating for over 300 years in central Chur, featuring Swiss pine furniture, local shuttle service in a vintage Buick, and on-site dining. Rates: CHF 160.00 to CHF 260.00 ($200.00–$325.00 USD) per night.
• Mid-Range: Hotel Bernina 1865 (Samedan) — Restored 19th-century hotel in the Upper Engadin offering mountain views, spa facilities, and proximity to Samedan railway station. Rates: CHF 180.00 to CHF 290.00 ($225.00–$362.50 USD) per night.
• Upscale: Badrutt's Palace Hotel (St. Moritz) — 5-star grand hotel overlooking Lake St. Moritz, featuring 157 rooms, an infinity pool, wellness spa, and Michelin-rated restaurants. Rates: CHF 750.00 to CHF 1,800.00+ ($937.50–$2,250.00+ USD) per night.
• Upscale: 7132 Hotel (Vals) — Design hotel directly connected to the Peter Zumthor thermal baths, featuring suites designed by Tadao Ando, Kengo Kuma, and Thom Mayne. Rates: CHF 650.00 to CHF 1,400.00 ($812.50–$1,750.00 USD) per night.

1. Bellinzona (Ticino, Switzerland) — 90 km southwest of Chur (1 hour 15 minutes by car via A13/San Bernardino Tunnel, or 1 hour 45 minutes by PostAuto bus route 171). Capital of Ticino canton featuring three UNESCO World Heritage-listed medieval fortresses: Castelgrande, Montebello, and Sasso Corbaro.
2. Tirano (Lombardy, Italy) — 57 km south of St. Moritz across the Bernina Pass (2 hours 15 minutes via Bernina Express train). Italian valley town in the Valtellina region, featuring the 16th-century Basilica of Madonna di Tirano and terraced red wine vineyards.
3. Vaduz (Liechtenstein) — 45 km north of Chur (35 minutes by car via A13, or 45 minutes by SBB train to Sargans plus PostBus route 11). Capital of the Principality of Liechtenstein, known for Vaduz Castle, the Liechtenstein National Museum, and alpine hiking paths.
4. Zurich (Switzerland) — 120 km northwest of Chur (1 hour 15 minutes by direct SBB InterCity train). Switzerland's largest urban center, featuring the Kunsthaus Zurich museum, Lake Zurich ferry cruises, and the historic Altstadt quarter.
5. Chiavenna (Lombardy, Italy) — 50 km southwest of St. Moritz via the Maloja Pass (1 hour 10 minutes by PostAuto bus route 604 or car). Historic Italian valley crossroads known for crotti (natural rock cave restaurants serving cured bresaola and local wine) and Palazzo Vertemate.