Appenzell

Appenzell is the capital of the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden in northeastern Switzerland. Located at an elevation of 780 metres above sea level, the town sits in a valley at the foot of the Alpstein mountain range, 19 kilometres south of St. Gallen and 90 kilometres east of Zurich. With a population of roughly 5,800 residents, it serves as the administrative, cultural, and commercial center of Switzerland's smallest canton by population.

The settlement is recognized for its car-free historic center lined with wooden houses featuring decorated, hand-painted gables and ornate iron signs. Local traditions remain active here, including small-scale dairy farming, Appenzeller cheese production, hand embroidery, and folk music played on dulcimers and violins. The canton also maintains the Landsgemeinde, an annual open-air direct democracy assembly held on Landsgemeindeplatz.

Appenzell experiences a temperate alpine climate influenced by its elevation and proximity to the northern Alps. Summer temperatures from June through August bring average daytime highs of 19°C to 23°C (66°F to 73°F) and cool night lows around 11°C (52°F). Winter from December to February brings regular snowfall with temperatures ranging between −4°C and 3°C (25°F to 37°F). Precipitation is distributed across all months, with summer seeing afternoon thundershowers.

By Bus

PostBus (PostAuto) and regional bus services connect Appenzell to surrounding villages:

• PostBus Line 191 (Appenzell – Eggerstanden): Runs every 1 to 2 hours, taking 12 minutes. Fares cost CHF 3.80 to CHF 5.60 (~$4.35 to $6.45 USD).
• PostBus Line 180 (from Herisau / Stein AR): Connects Stein AR (cheese factory) and Herisau to Appenzell in 25 to 35 minutes. Departs hourly. Fares cost CHF 4.40 to CHF 8.80 (~$5.05 to $10.10 USD).
• PubliCar Appenzell: On-demand public transit shuttle operating throughout Appenzell Innerrhoden for locations not served by regular bus lines. Bookings are made via the PubliCar App or by phone (+41 848 55 30 60). Standard public transport ticket applies plus a CHF 5.00 (~$5.75 USD) surcharge per passenger.

By Train

Appenzeller Bahnen (AB) operates narrow-gauge train lines connecting Appenzell to national rail hubs:

• S20 / S21 Line (from St. Gallen): Trains run every 30 minutes from St. Gallen main station (Bahnhof St. Gallen) via Teufen to Appenzell in 45 minutes. A 2nd Class ticket costs CHF 9.20 ($10.60 USD); 1st Class costs CHF 16.20 ($18.70 USD).
• S23 Line (from Gossau & Herisau): Operates every 30 minutes from Gossau SG (35 minutes) and Herisau (22 minutes) to Appenzell, continuing onward to Weissbad and Wasserauen (12 minutes). Fares from Gossau cost CHF 9.20 ($10.60 USD) 2nd Class and CHF 16.20 ($18.70 USD) 1st Class.
• Rail passes: SBB Half Fare Travelcards halve all ticket prices. The Swiss Travel Pass fully covers travel on all Appenzeller Bahnen trains.

By Car

Appenzell is accessed via regional highways from major Swiss motorways:

• From St. Gallen (19 km north): Take the A1 motorway to exit 80 (St. Gallen-Winkeln), then follow Route 459 through Hundwil into Appenzell (25 minutes drive).
• From Zurich (90 km west): Take the A1 motorway eastbound toward St. Gallen, take exit 79 (Gossau), and follow regional roads via Herisau and Waldstatt to Appenzell (1 hour 15 minutes drive).
• Parking: Vehicle traffic is restricted in the central pedestrian area. Paid parking lots are located on the perimeter at Brauereiplatz, Ziel, and Landsgemeindeplatz for CHF 1.00 to CHF 1.50 ($1.15 to $1.75 USD) per hour or CHF 7.00 to CHF 10.00 ($8.05 to $11.50 USD) per day.

By Air

No airport is located directly in Appenzell. The closest commercial airports are:

• St. Gallen-Altenrhein Airport (IATA: ACH): Located 30 kilometres northeast near Lake Constance. Served by People's airline with regular flights to Vienna. Drive time is 35 minutes; public train and bus connections take 1 hour.

• Zurich Airport (IATA: ZRH): Located 90 kilometres west. Switzerland's main international gateway, served by SWISS, Lufthansa, British Airways, Delta, and international carriers. Drive time by rental car is 1 hour 15 minutes. Direct SBB trains run from Zurich Airport railway station with one quick change in St. Gallen or Gossau to Appenzell in 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes (2nd Class fare ~CHF 17.00 to CHF 34.00 / ~$19.55 to $39.10 USD).

• Friedrichshafen Airport (IATA: FDH): Located 50 kilometres north in Germany. Accessible by driving around Lake Constance or taking the Romanshorn car ferry (1 hour 45 minutes total travel time).

• On Foot: The historic center of Appenzell is pedestrianized and measures less than 500 metres across, making walking the primary way to reach shops, museums, and restaurants.

• Regional Rail & Bus: Appenzeller Bahnen narrow-gauge trains link the town to nearby hamlets such as Gonten, Jakobsbad, Weissbad, and Wasserauen every 30 minutes. Single 1-2 zone tickets cost CHF 3.20 to CHF 5.60 (~$3.70 to $6.45 USD).

• Appenzell Holiday Card (Appenzeller Ferienkarte): Guests staying 3 or more consecutive nights at participating hotels receive a complimentary digital card providing free travel on regional trains and buses (OSTWIND zones) and free entry to local museums and cable cars.

• Public Transport Apps: Timetables and digital tickets are available via the SBB Mobile app, OSTWIND Ticket App, and PubliCar App.

• Hauptgasse: The main pedestrian street running through the center of town. Framed by timber-framed structures dating from the 16th to 18th centuries featuring painted facade murals, wooden gables, and wrought-iron guild signs. Free access.

• Museum Appenzell: Located at Hauptgasse 4 inside the historic Buchelihaus. Features exhibits on hand embroidery, folk painting, traditional costumes (Tracht), painted wooden furniture, and cantonal history. Open April–October Monday–Friday 10:00–12:00 and 13:30–17:00, Saturday–Sunday 11:00–17:00; November–March Tuesday–Sunday 14:00–17:00. Entry fee: CHF 9.00 ($10.35 USD) for adults, CHF 4.00 ($4.60 USD) for students and seniors, free for children and Appenzell Holiday Card holders.

• Kunstmuseum Appenzell: Located at Unrainstrasse 5. Housed in a metallic building designed by architects Gigon/Guyer, presenting modern and contemporary art with a focus on works by painters Carl August Liner and Carl Walter Liner. Open Wednesday–Friday 12:00–18:00, Saturday–Sunday 11:00–17:00 (winter hours 14:00–17:00 Wed–Sat). Entry fee: CHF 15.00 ($17.25 USD) for adults, CHF 10.00 ($11.50 USD) for students and seniors.

• Parish Church of St. Mauritius (Pfarrkirche St. Mauritius): Located on Hauptgasse. Features a late-Gothic choir built in 1488, Neo-Renaissance side altars, and ceiling frescoes restored in the 19th century. Free entry.

• Chlef / Rathaus (Town Hall): Located on Hauptgasse near the river. Features external wall murals painted by August Liner illustrating key historical events and cantonal assemblies of Appenzell Innerrhoden. Free exterior viewing.

• Hike to Äscher & Wildkirchli from Ebenalp: Take the Appenzeller Bahnen train from Appenzell station to Wasserauen (12 minutes), then ride the Ebenalp Cable Car up to 1,644 metres elevation. Walk through the prehistoric Wildkirchli cave chapels down to Berggasthaus Äscher, a mountain guesthouse built directly into the cliff wall. Cable car round-trip fare: CHF 36.00 (~$41.40 USD) for adults (50% discount with SBB Half Fare Card; free with Appenzell Holiday Card).

• Observe the Landsgemeinde: Held annually on the last Sunday of April at Landsgemeindeplatz (starts at 12:00 after 09:00 mass). Citizens of Appenzell Innerrhoden gather in the open air to vote on cantonal laws and elect judges by show of hands. Visitors can watch from public spectator enclosures. Free entry.

• Walk the Barefoot Trail (Barfussweg): A 5-kilometre trail designed for walking without shoes over grass, mud, and stream beds between Jakobsbad station, Gonten, and Gontenbad. Accessible by taking the train from Appenzell to Jakobsbad (10 minutes). Free access.

• Visit the Appenzeller Cheese Factory (Appenzeller Schaukäserei): Located 10 kilometres northwest in Stein AR (accessible via PostBus 180 in 20 minutes). Watch cheesemakers produce Appenzeller hard cheese from a viewing gallery and learn about the herbal brine recipe. Open daily 09:00–18:30 (17:30 in winter). Gallery entry: CHF 12.00 ($13.80 USD) for adults, CHF 7.00 ($8.05 USD) for children.

• Ride the Kronberg Toboggan Run & Cable Car: Located at Jakobsbad station (6 km west). Features a 1,000-metre alpine coaster (Rodelbahn) at the base and a cable car running to the peak of Kronberg at 1,663 metres. Cable car round-trip: CHF 36.00 ($41.40 USD); toboggan ride: CHF 9.00 ($10.35 USD) per run.

• Café-Hotel Appenzell: Located at Hauptgasse 37. Serves classic regional specialties including Appenzeller Siedwurst (boiled white sausage served with onion sauce and crispy potato Rösti), cheese tarts (Käsefladen), and home-baked pastries. Price tier: Mid-range (CHF 22.00–CHF 42.00 / ~$25.30–$48.30 USD per main course).
• Gasthaus Krone Appenzell: Located at Engelgasse 4. Set in a restored timber dining room serving local veal Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, mountain cheese fondue, and seasonal game dishes. Price tier: Mid-range (CHF 20.00–CHF 38.00 / ~$23.00–$43.70 USD per main course).
• Restaurant Säntis: Located on Landsgemeindeplatz 3. Features fine dining in a historic square-facing guesthouse, specializing in pan-seared lake fish, beef fillet with herbs, and Swiss wines. Price tier: Upscale (CHF 32.00–CHF 65.00 / ~$36.80–$74.75 USD per main course).
• Berggasthaus Äscher-Wildkirchli: Located under the cliff face on Ebenalp (accessible via cable car from Wasserauen). Known for mountain Rösti baked with Appenzeller cheese and fried eggs, smoked landjäger sausages, and local draft beer. Price tier: Mid-range (CHF 16.00–CHF 28.00 / ~$18.40–$32.20 USD per main course).
• Gasthaus Zum Hof: Located on Brauereiplatz 1. Casual local restaurant offering daily lunch sets, pork escalopes, Appenzeller cheese soup, and regional draft beers. Price tier: Budget to Mid-range (CHF 15.00–CHF 26.00 / ~$17.25–$29.90 USD per main course).

Local beverages include Quöllfrisch lager and specialty craft brews produced by Brauerei Locher in Appenzell town (located on Brauereiplatz). The distillery also produces Säntis Malt, a Swiss single malt whisky aged in oak beer casks.

Cafes and bars serve Flauder, a carbonated mineral water flavored with elderflower and lemon balm produced by the Goba bottling company in nearby Gontenbad. For spirits, restaurants offer Appenzeller Alpenbitter herbal liqueur and fruit schnapps made from local apples and plums (Pflümli). Swiss wines including white Chasselas (Fendant) and red Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) are widely stocked.

• Budget: Appenzell Youth Hostel (Jugendherberge Appenzell) or Gasthaus Hof Appenzell — Simple private and shared dormitory accommodations located within walking distance of the train station. Offers clean rooms, shared or private bathrooms, and morning breakfast. Nightly rates: CHF 45.00–CHF 95.00 (~$51.75–$109.25 USD).
• Mid-Range: Hotel Adler (Weissbadstrasse 2) or Hotel Appenzell (Hauptgasse 37) — Traditional 3-star guesthouses featuring pine wood furnishings, private bathrooms, free Wi-Fi, and included buffet breakfasts. Nightly rates: CHF 140.00–CHF 230.00 (~$161.00–$264.50 USD).
• Upscale: Romantik Hotel Säntis (Landsgemeindeplatz 3) or Hof Weissbad (Weissbadstrasse 163, 4 km south in Weissbad) — Historic 4-star hotel on Landsgemeindeplatz offering wood-paneled suites, fine dining restaurants, sauna facilities, and mountain views. Nightly rates: CHF 260.00–CHF 480.00 (~$299.00–$552.00 USD).

• Appenzeller Cheese (Appenzeller Käse): A spicy Swiss hard cheese rubbed during aging with a secret herbal brine. Sold at Chäs-Lade Appenzell (Hauptgasse 13) and regional dairies in Mild, Surchoix, and Extra aged varieties. Prices range from CHF 20.00 to CHF 32.00 (~$23.00 to $36.80 USD) per kilogram.
• Appenzeller Biberli: Traditional gingerbread filled with almond paste and stamped with images of local bears, cattle, or mountain peaks. Available at Bäckerei Laimbacher (Hauptgasse 27) and local pastry shops for CHF 3.50 to CHF 15.00 (~$4.00 to $17.25 USD).
• Appenzeller Alpenbitter: A traditional digestive liqueur made from 42 mountain herbs, produced in town since 1902. Available at grocery stores, liquor shops, and the distillery shop at Erlenstrasse 17. 70cl bottle costs CHF 22.00 to CHF 26.00 (~$25.30 to $29.90 USD).
• Handcrafted Leather & Wooden Crafts: Belt shops along Hauptgasse sell traditional brass-studded leather belts (Chäserschöllen-Gurt) and hand-carved wooden milk buckets used in alpine cattle parades. Belts cost CHF 80.00 to CHF 250.00 (~$92.00 to $287.50 USD).

• Wasserauen & Ebenalp (6 km south): Terminal station of the Appenzeller Bahnen line. Base for the Ebenalp cable car, hikes to Seealpsee lake, and access to the Äscher cliff guesthouse.
• St. Gallen (19 km north): Cantonal capital of St. Gallen, site of the UNESCO World Heritage Abbey of St. Gall, its 8th-century library, and historic old town textile halls.
• Säntis Peak & Schwägalp (18 km southwest): At 2,502 metres, Säntis is the highest summit in the Alpstein massif. Accessible by aerial tramway from Schwägalp, offering views across Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, France, and Italy.
• Stein AR (10 km northwest): Village in Appenzell Ausserrhoden featuring the Appenzeller Schaukäserei show dairy and the Appenzell Folk Art Museum.
• Herisau (15 km northwest): Capital of canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, featuring historic churches, hiking routes, and direct train links to Zurich.