Peru

Peru is South America's headline act — the country that gave the world Machu Picchu, the Nazca Lines, and the Inca Empire, yet rewards anyone willing to look past the famous icons. In a single trip you can stand among Andean peaks above 6,000 m, drift through Amazon rainforest teeming with macaws and pink river dolphins, and walk a Pacific coast that is one of the driest deserts on Earth. Few countries pack this much geographic and cultural range into one set of borders.

What makes Peru distinctive is the depth of living history layered onto that landscape. Quechua and Aymara are still spoken in highland villages; pre-Inca cultures — Chavín, Moche, Nazca, Chimú — left ruins that predate the Incas by millennia; and the colonial cities of Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa wear their Spanish baroque architecture beside Inca stonework. Add a cuisine that has made Lima a global dining capital — ceviche, lomo saltado, anticuchos, and the pisco sour — and you have a country that engages every sense.

Peru suits a wide range of travellers: trekkers and adventure seekers drawn to the Inca Trail and Cordillera Blanca, culture-and-history travellers chasing UNESCO sites, food lovers, and wildlife enthusiasts headed for the jungle. It is welcoming to first-time South America visitors thanks to a well-worn "Gringo Trail," while still offering genuine off-the-beaten-track adventure for those who want it.

Peru divides neatly into three great longitudinal zones. The coast (costa) is a narrow, mostly rainless desert strip running the length of the Pacific, home to Lima and most of the country's industry. The highlands (sierra) are dominated by the Andes, with deep canyons, high plateaus, and the altiplano around Lake Titicaca (about 3,800 m). The jungle (selva) — over half the national territory — is the western edge of the Amazon basin, hot, humid, and biodiverse.

Climate follows altitude and zone rather than a simple summer/winter pattern. On the coast, Lima and the central shore are paradoxically grey and damp from roughly May to November under a coastal fog called the garúa, then sunnier and warm from December to April; the far north (Tumbes, Piura, Máncora) stays hot and sunny most of the year. In the Andes, there are two clear seasons: a dry season (roughly May–September/October) with bright days and cold nights, and a wet season (November–March) with frequent afternoon rain. The Amazon is hot and humid year-round, with a wetter, higher-water period from about November to April and a drier window from May to October.

Altitude is the practical headline for most itineraries: Cusco sits at about 3,400 m and Puno near 3,800 m, high enough that altitude sickness (soroche) is a real consideration when planning.

The dry season, May to September, is peak season and the best window for the highlands — Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail, the Sacred Valley, Lake Titicaca, and Cordillera Blanca trekking all shine under clear skies, though nights are cold and crowds and prices peak in June–August. April–May and September–October are excellent shoulder months: greener landscapes, thinner crowds, still mostly reliable weather.

The wet season, November to March, brings rain to the Andes; trails can be muddy and views hit-or-miss, but it is low season with better prices, and it is actually the sunny beach season on the central and southern coast (Lima is at its best December–March). Note that the classic Inca Trail is closed every February for maintenance, while Machu Picchu itself stays open — book permits months ahead in high season regardless.

Festivals worth planning around:

• Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) — Cusco, 24 June, the marquee Andean celebration.
• Virgen de la Candelaria — Puno, early-to-mid February, one of South America's largest folk-dance festivals.
• Semana Santa (Holy Week) — especially spectacular in Ayacucho and Cusco, March/April.
• Fiestas Patrias (Independence) — nationwide, 28–29 July; expect domestic travel and closures.

Citizens of most Western countries — including the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, the EU/Schengen states, Australia, New Zealand, and most of Latin America — do not need a visa for tourism and are typically granted entry for up to 183 days within a 12-month period. Immigration often grants fewer days than the maximum, so confirm the number stamped/recorded on arrival and don't assume the full allowance.

Peru has largely moved to a digital entry/exit record (the paper Andean Migration Card, TAM, was phased out), so your authorized stay is recorded electronically — keep proof of your entry date. Overstaying incurs a per-day fine payable on departure. There is no general visa-on-arrival or tourist e-visa scheme for nationalities that require a visa; those travellers must apply at a Peruvian consulate in advance. Onward/return tickets and proof of sufficient funds may be requested.

This is general guidance only and entry rules change. Verify current requirements with a Peruvian embassy or consulate, or the national immigration authority (Migraciones), before you travel.

The currency is the Peruvian sol (PEN), symbol S/, divided into 100 céntimos. The exchange rate hovers around S/3.7–3.8 to US$1 (use ~S/3.75 for the estimates below; rates fluctuate). US dollars are widely accepted for tours, hotels, and big purchases, but you'll need soles for everyday spending — carry small, clean, untorn notes, as damaged bills are often refused.

Rough daily budgets per person:

• Budget: S/100–180 (~US$27–48) — hostel dorm, the set-lunch menú del día (S/10–18), local transport.
• Mid-range: S/300–600 (~US$80–160) — comfortable 3-star hotel, à la carte dining, the odd guided tour or domestic flight.
• Luxury: S/1,200+ (~US$320+) — high-end hotels, private guiding, fine dining (a tasting menu at a top Lima restaurant alone can run S/700–900+).

ATMs (cajeros) are common in cities and accept foreign Visa/Mastercard, though most charge a withdrawal fee (often S/15–25) and have per-transaction limits; BCP, Interbank, BBVA, and Scotiabank are reliable. Cards are widely accepted in upper-tier hotels, restaurants, and shops in cities, but carry cash for markets, small towns, rural areas, and most taxis.

Tipping: restaurants frequently add a 10% service charge — check the bill; if not included, 10% is standard for good service. Round up or tip a few soles for taxis is optional and appreciated but not expected. Trekking porters and guides rely on tips — budget meaningfully for multi-day treks (commonly S/50–100+ per day pooled for the crew, plus a guide tip).

The main gateway is Jorge Chávez International Airport (LIM) in Callao, serving Lima — the busiest hub in the country, with direct links across the Americas and to Europe. Other international airports include Cusco (CUZ) (regional flights, e.g. from La Paz and some other neighbours), and increasingly Arequipa (AQP) and northern hubs, though most long-haul arrivals route through Lima.

Land borders connect Peru with all five neighbours:

• Ecuador: the busy Tumbes / Aguas Verdes–Huaquillas crossing on the coast, and Macará/La Tina inland.
• Chile: Tacna–Arica, an easy and very frequently used crossing (shared taxis and buses run constantly).
• Bolivia: Desaguadero, and the scenic Kasani–Yunguyo route near Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.
• Brazil & Colombia: the tri-border on the Amazon at Santa Rosa, opposite Leticia (Colombia) and Tabatinga (Brazil), reached by boat — there are no roads here.

Peru is also a stop on some Pacific cruise itineraries, with ships calling at the port of Callao (for Lima); Amazon riverboat services connect Iquitos with the Brazil/Colombia border for those entering or leaving overland by river.

Domestic flights are the fastest way to cover Peru's long distances and challenging terrain. LATAM, Sky Airline, and JetSmart are the main carriers, with Star Perú serving some regional routes; Lima connects to Cusco, Arequipa, Juliaca (for Puno/Titicaca), Iquitos (the largest city with no road access — reachable only by air or river), Trujillo, Piura, and more. Book ahead in high season.

Intercity buses are the backbone of overland travel and can be genuinely comfortable: premium operators like Cruz del Sur, Oltursa, and Móvil Tours offer bus cama/semi-cama reclining seats, onboard service, and GPS-tracked routes on major corridors. Stick to reputable companies, keep valuables on your person rather than in overhead bins, and prefer daytime travel on mountain roads where you can.

Trains are limited but iconic: PeruRail and Inca Rail run the spectacular line to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) from Ollantaytambo and Poroy/Cusco — the only way to reach Machu Picchu other than trekking. PeruRail also operates the high-altitude Cusco–Puno scenic route.

Taxis and rideshare: in Lima and other cities use apps — Uber, Cabify, Beat (where operating), and InDriver — rather than hailing on the street, both for fair pricing and safety. For street taxis, agree the fare before getting in (meters are uncommon).

Common scams to avoid: unofficial/unmarked "taxis" (a vector for robbery and "express kidnappings"), counterfeit banknotes and short-changing (inspect bills and your change), inflated tourist pricing, and people creating distractions to pickpocket. Watch your bag closely at bus terminals and crowded markets.

Peruvians are warm and proud of their country, and a little Spanish goes a long way — outside major tourist hubs, English is limited. A handshake is standard between men; a single cheek kiss is common between women and between men and women in social settings. Use señor/señora and a friendly buenos días/buenas tardes to open interactions. Don't be alarmed by the cheerful "¡Hola, gringo!" — gringo is generally not meant as an insult.

Dress is casual but modest; bring layers for the Andes (warm days, cold nights). For churches and religious sites, cover shoulders and knees and remove hats. In indigenous highland communities, dress and behave respectfully and ask before entering homes or ceremonies.

Photography: always ask before photographing people, especially in traditional dress at markets and in the Sacred Valley — many will expect a small tip (a sol or two) in return, which is fair. Some churches, museums, and ruins restrict photography or charge for cameras; respect the signs.

Dos and don'ts: do try the food adventurously (cuy/guinea pig, anticuchos, ceviche) and respect coca-leaf customs in the highlands, where chewing or tea is traditional and legal; do go with the flow on timing, as punctuality is relaxed. Don't disrespect Inca or pre-Inca sites by climbing on stonework, and don't haggle aggressively in markets — bargaining is fine, but keep it good-natured.

Peru is a rewarding and generally safe destination for tourists who take normal precautions, but petty crime — pickpocketing, bag-snatching, and taxi-related robbery — is the main risk, concentrated in cities (parts of Lima, Cusco, Arequipa) and at transport hubs. Keep valuables out of sight, use app-based or hotel-arranged taxis, avoid displaying phones and jewellery, and be extra alert at night, at ATMs, and in crowds. Express kidnappings (forced ATM withdrawals via fake taxis) are the reason to avoid unofficial cabs.

Regional cautions: the VRAEM region (the Apurímac, Ene, and Mantaro river valleys) sees drug-trafficking and security activity and is best avoided. Some remote jungle and border zones warrant extra care. Natural hazards include earthquakes (Peru is seismically active), seasonal landslides and road washouts in the rainy highlands, and strong currents on the coast.

Health: the biggest issue for most visitors is altitude sickness (soroche) in Cusco, Puno, and the highlands — ascend gradually, hydrate, go easy on alcohol the first days, try coca tea, and ask a doctor about acetazolamide. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended for Amazon/jungle areas (and may be checked at some borders); discuss malaria prophylaxis, typhoid, and routine vaccines with a travel clinic. Don't drink tap water — stick to bottled, boiled, or purified water, and be cautious with raw produce and street food when your stomach is unaccustomed.

• Southern Sierra (Cusco & the Sacred Valley) — the heart of the Inca world and Peru's most-visited region, base for Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, and Pisac.
• Altiplano (Lake Titicaca / Puno) — high plateau on the Bolivian border, home to the famous Uros floating reed islands and Taquile.
• Southern Coast — desert shoreline of the Nazca Lines, the Paracas reserve, and the Ballestas Islands, plus the Colca Canyon and Arequipa inland.
• Central Coast (Lima) — the capital region and culinary capital, the natural arrival point and a destination in its own right.
• Northern Coast — beaches and surf at Máncora plus the great pre-Inca archaeological sites around Trujillo and Chiclayo.
• Cordillera Blanca (Áncash) — Peru's premier high-mountain trekking and climbing region around Huaraz and Huascarán National Park.
• Peruvian Amazon — vast rainforest reached via Iquitos in the north and Puerto Maldonado/Manú in the south, for wildlife and river journeys.

• Machu Picchu — the iconic 15th-century Inca citadel set amid cloud-forest peaks, Peru's must-see and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• Cusco — the former Inca capital, a beautiful colonial-on-Inca city and the launch point for the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.
• Lima — sprawling coastal capital famous for its food scene, colonial centre, and clifftop Miraflores and Barranco districts.
• Arequipa — the elegant "White City" of sillar volcanic stone, a UNESCO site framed by the El Misti volcano.
• Lake Titicaca / Puno — the world's highest navigable lake, with the Uros floating islands and traditional island communities.
• Nazca Lines — enormous, mysterious geoglyphs etched into the desert, best seen from a light aircraft.
• Colca Canyon — one of the world's deepest canyons, renowned for Andean condor sightings and terraced valleys.
• Iquitos — the largest city unreachable by road, gateway to the northern Amazon, riverboats, and jungle lodges.
• Huaraz & Huascarán National Park — trekking capital of the Cordillera Blanca, home to glacial lakes like Laguna 69.
• Trujillo & Chan Chan — northern colonial city beside the vast adobe ruins of the Chimú capital and the Moche Huacas del Sol y de la Luna.
• Máncora — laid-back northern beach and surf town that becomes a lively party spot in season.
• Paracas & the Ballestas Islands — coastal nature reserve and wildlife-rich islands often called "the poor man's Galápagos."