Pyongyang

Pyongyang (Korean: 평양) is the capital city of North Korea, situated on the Taedong River in the country's southwest with approximately 2.75 million inhabitants. Known as the "Capital of the Revolution," it serves as the political, cultural, and economic heart of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. Visitors should note that all tourism is tightly controlled — tourists must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times and movement outside designated areas is restricted.

The city was largely destroyed during the Korean War in 1952 and subsequently rebuilt as a model socialist city with Soviet assistance. The result is a distinctive urban landscape of wide boulevards, monumental architecture, and generous green spaces laid out in an orderly grid. Self-sufficient neighbourhoods, each with similar amenities, give the city a spacious, uncrowded feel that stands in stark contrast to most large Asian cities. Key districts include the central Moranbong area, the riverside Yanggakdo island where many foreigners stay, and the Munsu dong area east of the river where foreign residents live.

Pyongyang has a continental climate with hot, humid summers and cold, dry winters. July and August see average highs of 28–30°C with heavy rainfall (up to 275 mm in July), making spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) the most comfortable seasons to visit. Winter temperatures regularly drop below freezing, with January averaging lows of −10°C. The annual Arirang Mass Games in August and September are a major draw.

By Plane

Sunan International Airport (FNJ) is 24 km north of Pyongyang and handles a relatively small number of passengers for a capital airport. As of 2024, scheduled international services operate to Beijing, Shenyang, Moscow, and Vladivostok. A modern terminal opened in summer 2015 offers expanded seating, a duty-free store, and additional amenities; a US$1 parking fee applies when exiting the lot.

Air Koryo is the main carrier, operating flights to Beijing Capital, Shenyang, and Vladivostok internationally, plus domestic services to Chongjin, Hamhung, Samjiyon, and Wonsan. The cheapest international flights are to Shenyang at around US$180 one way on Air Koryo (Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays). Nordwind operates one or two weekly flights from Moscow Sheremetyevo. Expect to pay US$300–320 for a one-way ticket to Beijing. Tickets can be purchased through travel agents who interact with Air Koryo offices in Beijing or Berlin, or at the Air China office in the Youth Hotel (about 10 km northeast of the city), which offers a free 30 kg baggage allowance.

By Train

Two international train services reach Pyongyang: from Beijing (via Dandong and Sinuiju) and from Moscow (via Zabaikalsk, Dandong, and Sinuiju). Note that Western foreigners are usually denied entry to North Korea by train unless the journey is specially arranged by a tour company.

At Pyongyang Station (평양역), foreigners must exit via the side door at the far end of the station — do not join the queue with local passengers, as you will not be permitted to use the same exit. The customs office is around the back of the building and closes between 12:00 and 14:00. Customs clearance is straightforward with no charges, considerably simpler than the process at Beijing railway station.

All tourists in Pyongyang must be accompanied by accredited guides who arrange transport and itineraries. Foreign residents' personal visitors may travel independently unless explicitly told otherwise.

Metro: The Pyongyang Metro is the deepest in the world at over 110 m below ground, with two lines and stations decorated with socialist realist murals. At ₩5 per journey irrespective of distance, it is phenomenally cheap. However, the metro only serves the west bank of the river, while Munsu dong (where foreign residents live) is on the east side. On package tours, a short metro ride (typically Puhung station to the Arch of Triumph, 6 stops) is pre-arranged; a full-line tour costs around €20 and takes several hours, with a couple of stations still restricted.

Taxi: Taxis exist but drivers are often wary of accepting foreigners. The Koryo Hotel near the railway station is a reliable place to find one, though the driver may check with the hotel first. Expect to pay around €5 for a medium-distance trip; rates for foreigners are approximately US$1/km before 18:30 and US$2/km in the evening.

Trolleybus: Foreign residents cannot normally use buses, but organised trolleybus tours are occasionally arranged. Note that numbers displayed on the dashboard are not route numbers but stopping patterns — routes are named after destinations rather than numbered.

• Arch of Triumph — Designed to commemorate Korean resistance to Japan (1925–1945) and modelled on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, it stands 60 m high and 50 m wide, making it the largest victory arch in the world.

• Arirang Mass Games (Arirang Festival) — A mass gymnastics and artistic performance running through parts of August and September with over 100,000 participants, arguably the greatest show on earth by sheer number of performers.

• Children's Palace — Pyongyang's palatial after-school centre where gifted students (from around age 11) practise ballet, rhythmic dance, gymnastics, computer programming, singing, musical instruments, chess, volleyball, basketball, embroidery, and calligraphy daily.

• Chollima Statue — Atop Mansu Hill, a statue of a man riding Chollima (a winged horse) symbolising the rapid economic development of Korea.

• Juche Tower — A 170 m monument dedicated to the Juche philosophy of Kim Il Sung. The observation deck (€5) offers panoramic city views, though the view from the top floors of the Yanggakdo Hotel is comparable and free.

• Kaeson Funfair — A small amusement park near the Arch of Triumph with modern rides. A park guide escorts visitors to each ride and you pay per ride at the end. Foreign visitors are placed at the front of queues.

• Kimilsungia-Kimjungilia Flower Exhibition Centre — Two floors of flowers named after Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Sung. Annual flower shows are held in Pyongyang, with embassies presenting bouquets.

• Korean War Museum (Victorious Fatherland Liberation Museum) — Moved to a new building in 2013, featuring dioramas, historical artefacts, captured US aircraft and tanks, and paintings of the leaders. Allow 2–3 hours.

• Mansudae Grand Monument — A 20 m bronze statue of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. Flowers (€3–10) are available on-site; formal dress is expected and visitors are required to show respect to the monument.

• Munsu Water Park — A large water park complex in East Pyongyang that opened in October 2013 with numerous water slides. Open to foreigners on Saturdays. €7 for indoors only, €10 for indoors and outdoors.

• North Korean Film Studio — Where DPRK films are made, featuring elaborate film sets depicting Japan, Russia, China, and South Korea.

• Pyongyang Circus (State Circus) — Closer to an acrobatics show than a traditional circus, with illusion and gymnastics acts accompanied by a live orchestra. No live animals. Around ¥80.

• Ryugyong Hotel — A 105-storey, 330 m pyramid dominating the skyline. Construction began in 1987, halted in 1992, and resumed in 2008 with Orascom Group funding. As of January 2025 it remains unopened.

• Stamp Shop (next to the Koryo Hotel on Changwang St) — Sells a wide variety of DPRK postage stamps, postcards, and stamps. Postage is cheaper on the second floor of the Koryo Hotel.

• USS Pueblo — The captured US Navy intelligence ship, now displayed as a museum on the Taedong River.

• Visit the Arirang Mass Games — If your trip coincides with the August–September festival, this is an unmissable spectacle of synchronised gymnastics and choreography involving over 100,000 performers.

• Ride the Pyongyang Metro — Even the standard tourist ride (Puhung to the Arch of Triumph) is worthwhile for the grand socialist realist murals and chandelier-lit stations at extreme depth.

• Tour the Korean War Museum — A deeply immersive experience with dioramas, war artefacts, and the captured USS Pueblo. Allow a full morning or afternoon.

• Ascend the Juche Tower — The observation deck provides 360-degree views over Pyongyang and the Taedong River, best on a clear day.

• Explore the Children's Palace — Watch gifted young students perform ballet, gymnastics, martial arts, and musical performances.

• Day trip to the DMZ — The Demilitarised Zone at Panmunjom can be visited as a day trip from Pyongyang, typically arranged by your tour operator.

Pyongyang's food scene is shaped by the state-run restaurant system. Tourist meals are typically included in tour packages and served at hotels or designated restaurants. North Korean cuisine features cold noodles (naengmyeon), Pyongyang-style barbecue, kimchi, and various rice and noodle dishes.

• Okryu-gwan — Pyongyang's most famous restaurant, renowned for its cold buckwheat noodles (naengmyeon). A local institution since 1960, always bustling with locals.
• Koryo Hotel Restaurant — Serves Korean and Chinese cuisine in a formal setting; a reliable option for visitors staying at or near the hotel.
• Yanggakdo Hotel Restaurant — Multiple dining options on Yanggakdo Island including Korean BBQ and a revolving restaurant at the top with city views.
• Taedonggang Beer Bar — Near the Taedong River, serving locally brewed Taedonggang beer alongside bar snacks. North Korea's flagship beer is a clean, crisp lager worth trying.
• Diplomatic Club — A more relaxed dining environment accessible to foreign residents and their guests, offering Korean and Western dishes.

Dietary options (vegetarian, halal, gluten-free) are extremely limited; inform your tour operator of any requirements well in advance.

Taedonggang Beer is North Korea's premier beer brand, brewed in Pyongyang and available widely in restaurants and hotels — a surprisingly good pilsner-style lager. Several varieties exist including a dark beer. Soju (a clear rice spirit) is the standard local spirit, consumed with meals. Korean tea and coffee are available in hotel lobbies. Tap water should not be drunk — bottled water is readily available in tourist facilities. Nightlife is extremely limited; hotel bars at the Yanggakdo and Koryo hotels occasionally host social evenings for foreign visitors.

• Budget: Options are very limited for independent travellers, as accommodation is typically arranged by tour operators. The Youth Hotel (about 10 km northeast of the centre) offers basic rooms and houses an Air China ticket office. Rates are modest but rarely published independently.
• Mid-range: Yanggakdo Hotel — Located on Yanggakdo Island in the Taedong River, this is the primary hotel for foreign tourists. It offers comfortable rooms, multiple restaurants, a revolving rooftop restaurant, bowling alley, and swimming pool. Rates are typically bundled into tour packages but standalone rooms start around US$80–120/night.
• Upscale: Koryo Hotel — A twin-towered, 45-storey landmark near Pyongyang Railway Station with panoramic city views. It features multiple restaurants, a gift shop, and a post office on the second floor. Rooms start around US$100–150/night. The Ryugyong Hotel, though externally complete, remains unopened as of 2025.

Shopping in Pyongyang is limited compared to most capitals. The Koryo Hotel gift shop and the Kwangbok Department Store offer a range of goods including propaganda posters, books, stamps, ceramics, and Korean art. The Stamp Shop near the Koryo Hotel is the best place for philatelic souvenirs and postcards. Foreigners pay in hard currency (EUR, USD, or CNY) at designated shops. Bargaining is not customary in state-run stores. Taedonggang beer and locally distilled soju make affordable and authentic souvenirs.

• Kaesŏng (170 km south, ~2.5 hours by road) — The historic capital of the Goryeo dynasty and gateway to the DMZ/Panmunjom Joint Security Area, the most popular day trip from Pyongyang.
• Mount Myohyang (150 km north, ~2.5 hours) — A scenic mountain area with hiking trails, Buddhist temples, and the International Friendship Exhibition housing gifts to the leaders from foreign dignitaries.
• Nampo (55 km west, ~1 hour) — A port city on the Yellow Sea featuring the West Sea Barrage, an 8 km long dam and tidal barrier across the Taedong River estuary.
• Wonsan (200 km east, ~3–4 hours by road or domestic flight) — A coastal city on the Sea of Japan with beaches and access to the scenic Kumgangsan (Diamond Mountains).
• Sariwon (80 km south, ~1.5 hours) — A provincial city with a folk village, pottery workshops, and views from Mt Kyongnam.