Varakļānu novads

Varakļānu novads is one of Latvia's smallest municipalities, tucked into the western edge of the Latgale region in the country's east. Centered on the little town of Varakļāni, the municipality spreads across a quiet landscape of farmland, pine forest, and small parishes — Murmastiene and Stirniene among them — that have changed little in pace over the decades. It sits close to the boundary between Latgale and Vidzeme, and the flat, lake-dotted terrain of eastern Latvia defines its character far more than any single landmark.

What gives the municipality its identity is a blend of Latgalian Catholic heritage and a surprising piece of aristocratic grandeur: the Baroque-Classicist Varakļāni Palace, built for the Borch family at the end of the 18th century and surrounded by one of the oldest landscaped parks in the country. For travelers, this is deep-rural Latvia — a place visited for slow afternoons, manor architecture, and church spires rather than nightlife or crowds.

Late spring through early autumn (May–September) is the most rewarding window. Summers are mild and green, ideal for walking the palace park, exploring back roads, and catching open-air community events; the long Baltic daylight stretches well into the evening around the June solstice. The Jāņi (Midsummer) celebration on 23–24 June is the high point of the warm season across all of Latgale, marked with bonfires, songs, and oak-leaf wreaths in rural communities.

Winters are cold, snowy, and very quiet, with short days and most outdoor sights stripped back to bare essentials — atmospheric but limited. Autumn brings strong color to the forests and is good for photography, though daylight shortens quickly.

Varakļāni lies on the road corridor between Madona and Rēzekne in eastern Latvia, and a car is by far the most practical way to explore the municipality and reach its outlying parishes. Distances are short — the town itself is small enough to cover on foot, and the surrounding parishes are a short drive away.

Regional buses connect Varakļāni with larger Latgale hubs such as Rēzekne and with Madona to the west, and onward links from those towns reach Rīga; services are infrequent, so check timetables in advance. There is no significant local rail service within the municipality itself.

• Varakļāni — the municipality's main town, a small Latgalian settlement with the Baroque-Classicist Varakļāni Palace and one of Latvia's oldest landscaped parks.
• Murmastiene — a quiet rural parish east of Varakļāni, surrounded by the flat, lake-dotted landscape of the Latgale–Vidzeme borderland.
• Stirniene — a small village in the farmland and forest of eastern Latvia, offering genuine rural isolation and traditional Latgalian village life.

Food here follows the hearty rural traditions of Latgale. Expect dishes built on rye bread, potatoes, pork, smoked and cured meats, freshwater fish from the region's lakes, mushrooms, and forest berries. Sour cream, dill, and caraway are staples, and dark sourdough rye bread accompanies nearly everything. Latgalian kitchens are also known for filled pastries and curd-based bakes, and homemade preserves and honey are common at village markets.

Dining is informal and local; you will find more home cooking and small-town cafés than formal restaurants. Vegetarians can manage with potato, mushroom, dairy, and bread-based dishes, though dedicated plant-based menus are rare in such a rural setting.

The municipality's culture is rooted in Latgalian identity and a strong Roman Catholic tradition — a defining feature of eastern Latvia that sets it apart from the Lutheran-leaning west of the country. Local churches serve as community anchors, and religious feast days remain important markers in the calendar.

Beyond Midsummer (Jāņi), Latgale is known for its folk-song and dance traditions, woven textiles, ceramics, and the regional Latgalian language still heard in everyday speech. Community choirs and amateur cultural groups keep these traditions alive at the local culture house.

• Varakļāni Palace and Park — tour the late-18th-century Borch family residence, an elegant Baroque-Classicist manor, and stroll its historic landscaped park, among the oldest in Latvia.
• Latgalian Catholic heritage trail — visit the town's church and the surrounding parish churches, experiencing a side of Latvian religious culture distinct from the rest of the country.
• Rural Latgale road trip — drive the quiet back roads linking Varakļāni with nearby lakes, forests, and the larger cultural center of Rēzekne to the east.