Cēsu novads

Cēsu novads (Cēsis Municipality) sits in the heart of Vidzeme, the historic and largely forested region of northeastern Latvia. The municipality is anchored by the town of Cēsis, one of the oldest and best-preserved settlements in the country, and spreads across the gentle hills, pine forests, and river valleys that define the Latvian highlands. The Gauja River winds through the territory, cutting sandstone cliffs and ravines that give this corner of Latvia its reputation as "Latvian Switzerland."

What defines Cēsu novads as a destination is the combination of medieval history and unspoiled nature within a very small radius. The 13th-century Cēsis Castle, built by the Livonian Order, dominates the old town, while just beyond the streetscape of cobblestones and timber houses begins the Gauja National Park — Latvia's largest and oldest national park. Few places in the Baltics pack this much castle ruin, forest trail, and small-town charm into one compact, walkable area.

The municipality is also a year-round outdoor base: hiking and cycling in the warm months, and one of Latvia's few genuine winter-sport hubs in the cold ones. Its scale is human and slow — this is a place for unhurried days rather than a checklist of attractions.

The strongest window is late May through September, when the forests are green, the Gauja is navigable for canoeing, and daylight stretches long into the evening. July and August are warmest (typically 18–23°C by day) and busiest, especially around the Cēsis Art Festival.

Autumn (late September–October) is arguably the most photogenic season, as the Gauja Valley sandstone cliffs are framed by birch and maple colour — popular with walkers and photographers.

Winter is a genuine draw here rather than a season to avoid: Cēsis and the surrounding hills support cross-country and downhill skiing, tubing, and sledging, with reliable snow cover usually from December into March. Temperatures often sit below freezing, so pack accordingly. The shoulder months of April and November tend to be grey, muddy, and best skipped unless you want solitude.

Cēsis is roughly 90 km northeast of Riga, an easy day-trip distance. The most pleasant approach is by train: the Riga–Valga line stops at Cēsis, with several services daily, taking around 1 hour 40 minutes from Riga. Regional buses also run frequently from Riga's central bus station and connect Cēsis with nearby Vidzeme towns such as Valmiera and Sigulda.

Within the municipality, distances are short — the historic core of Cēsis is entirely walkable, and most natural sites lie within a 10–20 km radius. A car is the most practical way to reach trailheads, smaller villages, and ski areas, as rural bus frequencies drop sharply outside the town. Taxis are available in Cēsis but should generally be booked rather than hailed. For active travellers, the area is well set up for cycling, with marked routes threading through the Gauja National Park.

• Cēsis — the municipality's jewel: a beautifully preserved medieval town with cobblestone streets, timber houses, the imposing 13th-century Cēsis Castle, and a walkable old town that ranks among Latvia's finest.
• Līgātne — a small settlement in the Gauja Valley, known for its historic paper mill, forest trails, and the Līgātne Nature Trails where native Baltic wildlife can be observed in woodland enclosures.
• Priekuļi — a quiet village east of Cēsis, gateway to the Vidzeme highlands and popular with cross-country skiers in winter and foragers in autumn.
• Vecpiebalga — a rural parish centre in the rolling Vidzeme uplands, surrounded by forests and lakes, with a strong association to Latvian literature and folk tradition.
• Jaunpiebalga — a remote highland village east of Vecpiebalga, set among pine forests and peat bogs, offering genuine solitude and unspoiled Vidzeme landscape.
• Araisi — home to the Araisi Lake Dwelling archaeological site, a reconstructed Neolithic lakeside settlement that gives a vivid window into prehistoric Baltic life.
• Gauja National Park — Latvia's largest and oldest national park, stretching through the municipality with sandstone cliffs, caves, forest trails, and the meandering Gauja River.

Cēsu novads sits in solidly traditional Latvian culinary territory, leaning on rye, forest, and farm. Expect dark rye bread (rupjmaize), grey peas with bacon (pelēkie zirņi ar speķi) — the national dish — and hearty soups. The surrounding forests make wild mushrooms and berries (chanterelles, lingonberries, bilberries) a seasonal highlight on local menus in late summer and autumn.

The town's most famous export is Cēsu alus (Cēsis beer), one of Latvia's oldest brewing brands, and a glass of it pairs naturally with the regional pub fare. Smoked fish, curd cheese (biezpiens), and honey from Vidzeme apiaries round out the local table. Cēsis old town has a cluster of cafés and restaurants in and around its central square; for the freshest seasonal produce, look for farm shops and market stalls.

Dietary note: vegetarian options are increasingly available in Cēsis's tourist-facing cafés, but traditional rural cooking is meat- and dairy-forward, so vegans should plan ahead outside the town centre.

The headline cultural event is the Cēsis Art Festival (Cēsu Mākslas festivāls), held across the summer (roughly July–August), which brings classical and contemporary music, theatre, and visual art into the castle grounds and historic venues. The medieval castle itself stages atmospheric evening tours by lantern light, a signature local experience.

Like the rest of Latvia, the municipality marks Jāņi (Midsummer) around 23–24 June with bonfires, oak-leaf wreaths, cheese, and all-night celebration — an essential window into Latvian folk tradition. Song and dance remain central to regional identity, feeding into Latvia's UNESCO-listed Song and Dance Celebration tradition.

• Explore Cēsis Castle — walk the ruins of the Livonian Order's 13th-century stronghold, climbing the towers by candle-lantern on guided evening tours for a genuinely medieval atmosphere.
• Hike or canoe the Gauja National Park — follow forest trails past sandstone cliffs, caves, and the meandering Gauja River; canoe and kayak trips down the river are a regional rite of passage in summer.
• Ski and sled in winter — take advantage of one of Latvia's rare winter-sport hubs, with downhill and cross-country trails on the hills around Cēsis.
• Wander the old town — lose an afternoon among cobbled streets, timber houses, the medieval St. John's Church, and café terraces on the central square.
• Cycle the Vidzeme backroads — link villages, viewpoints, and trailheads on marked cycling routes through the national park, ideal in the long days of summer.