Hemis National Park

Hemis National Park is a high-altitude protected area in eastern Ladakh, south of the Indus River and southeast of Leh, named after the famous Hemis Monastery on its northern edge. Covering well over 3,000 sq km, it is one of India's largest national parks and is celebrated above all as the best place in the world to see the snow leopard in the wild. Its terrain — ranging from about 3,300 m on the valley floors to over 6,000 m on the peaks — is classic Trans-Himalayan cold desert: rugged ridges, glacial valleys and sparse vegetation that support a surprising array of high-altitude wildlife.

Besides the snow leopard, the park shelters Asiatic ibex, bharal (blue sheep), Ladakhi urial, Tibetan wolf, red fox, and the rare Eurasian brown bear, along with golden eagles and lammergeiers overhead. The catchments of the Rumbak, Markha and other valleys lie within its bounds, and several villages with homestays sit inside the park, making it one of the few Indian national parks where people live among the wildlife. The famous Markha Valley trek runs through the park.

Winter (roughly December to March) is the prime season for snow-leopard tracking, when the cats descend to lower elevations to hunt; summer is the trekking season. Conditions are cold and the altitude is serious — proper acclimatisation in Leh first is essential.

By Car / Road

The park is reached by road from Leh. Hemis Monastery and the Zingchen/Rumbak trailheads on the park's northern side are roughly 40–50 km from Leh, about a one-to-two-hour drive on paved roads to the road heads, from where you continue on foot. Most visitors hire a taxi through the Leh Taxi Operators' Union or arrange transport as part of a trek or wildlife tour. There is no through-road across the park — internal travel is on foot.

Inside Hemis National Park there are no roads, so getting around means trekking on marked trails between villages such as Rumbak, Yurutse and the Markha Valley settlements. Local guides, ponies and porters are arranged in Leh or at the trailheads, and homestays in park villages provide overnight stops. Snow-leopard tracking in winter is done on foot with spotters and guides from a base camp or village, scanning the slopes with telescopes. There is no vehicle transport within the park.

• Snow leopards and high-altitude wildlife — the park's chief draw; winter tracking offers a genuine chance to spot the elusive cat, along with bharal, ibex and Tibetan wolf.
• Hemis Monastery — the largest and wealthiest gompa in Ladakh, on the park's northern edge, famous for its summer Hemis Tsechu masked-dance festival.
• Rumbak and Yurutse villages — traditional homestay villages inside the park, classic snow-leopard tracking bases.
• Markha Valley — the long, scenic valley running through the park, India's best-known Himalayan trek.
• Gandala and Kongmaru La passes — high crossings on the Markha trek with panoramic views.

The two great activities are wildlife watching and trekking. In winter, join a snow-leopard tracking tour, basing in villages like Rumbak and scanning the ridges with guides — patience rewarded by sightings of leopards, blue sheep and other wildlife. In summer, walk the Markha Valley trek, a multi-day route through the park linking homestay villages, monasteries and high passes, or shorter treks from Zingchen to Rumbak and Yurutse. Birdwatching for golden eagles and lammergeiers, and photography of the stark landscapes, round out the experience. Visiting Hemis Monastery, especially during its festival, pairs naturally with a park trip.

Eating in the park means home-cooked meals at village homestays — simple, hearty Ladakhi fare such as thukpa, skyu, momos, tsampa and dal-rice, often using local barley and vegetables. There are no restaurants inside the park, so trekkers rely on homestays and their own carried supplies. Meals are vegetarian-friendly and filling but plain. Stock up on trail snacks in Leh, and arrange meal plans with homestays or trekking operators in advance.

Butter tea and sweet milk tea are the everyday drinks at homestays, with chhang (barley beer) sometimes offered in villages. There are no bars or cafés inside the park. Do not drink untreated stream water — carry purification or boil it, and bring sufficient bottled or treated water for treks. Hot drinks are vital against the cold, especially during winter snow-leopard tracking. Stay well hydrated to counter the altitude and dry air.

• Budget: Village homestays in Rumbak, Yurutse and the Markha Valley, roughly ₹1,000–1,800 per person including meals — the standard and most rewarding option.
• Mid-range: Seasonal trekking and wildlife camps set up by tour operators for snow-leopard tracking, typically sold as all-inclusive packages.
• Upscale / heritage: There is no upscale lodging inside the park; premium snow-leopard expeditions base in comfortable Leh hotels and day-trip or camp in.

There are no shops or markets inside the park, so buy everything you need — trekking supplies, snacks, warm clothing — in Leh beforehand. Park villages may sell a few basic items and handmade woollens directly from homestay families, and small amounts of local produce. Hemis Monastery's vicinity has stalls selling souvenirs and handicrafts in season. Carry sufficient cash, as there are no banking facilities in the park.

• Hemis Monastery (park edge, about 45 km from Leh) — the great gompa and its festival.
• Leh (about 45 km, 1.5 hr) — the regional base, for acclimatisation and supplies.
• Thiksey and Shey (on the Leh road) — major Indus Valley monasteries en route.
• Markha Valley (within the park) — the classic multi-day trek.
• Pangong Tso (continuing east, seasonal) — the famous high lake.
• Stok (about 35 km) — the former royal palace and trailhead for Stok Kangri.