Ambala

Ambala (Hindi: अंबाला) is a city in the northern part of Haryana, India, lying close to the borders of Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and the union territory of Chandigarh. It is essentially a twin city made up of two distinct centres about 3 km apart: Ambala Cantonment (Ambala Cantt), the military and administrative side, and Ambala City, the older commercial and market town. Together they are home to around half a million people. Established in 1843, Ambala Cantonment is one of the oldest cantonments in India, and the surrounding district is among the country's oldest, with its first commissioner taking charge in 1855.

Ambala has long been known for its food, its wholesale trade and its cloth markets. It is also an industrial town with a strong reputation in the manufacture of scientific instruments, mixer-grinders and sewing machines, which has earned it the local nickname of a "science city". Its position at the confluence of major highways and one of north India's busiest railway junctions makes it primarily a transit and commercial hub rather than a leisure-tourism destination, but it serves as a convenient gateway northwards to Chandigarh, Shimla and the rest of Himachal Pradesh.

The climate is a typical north-Indian plains one: hot, dry summers from April to June when temperatures can climb well above 40°C, a humid monsoon from July to September, and pleasant, cool winters from November to February. The most comfortable time to visit is the winter and the immediately surrounding months (October to March); the peak of summer is best avoided.

By Plane

Ambala does not have a civilian airport. The nearest civil airport is Chandigarh International Airport (IXC), roughly 40–50 km away via the Ambala–Chandigarh Expressway, and it is well connected by air to other Indian cities. From the airport you can reach Ambala by pre-paid taxi or by onward train or bus from Chandigarh; allow around an hour by road in normal traffic.

By Train

Ambala Cantonment Junction is one of the largest and busiest railway junctions in north India and the headquarters of a railway division spanning four states. It is served by high-speed Rajdhani and Shatabdi trains and connects to all major Indian cities. Four broad-gauge lines fan out from here:

• Towards Delhi via Panipat.
• Towards Delhi via Barara, Yamunanagar, Saharanpur and Meerut (also connecting to Dehradun, Haridwar and beyond).
• Towards Kalka (for Chandigarh and Himachal Pradesh, including the connection to the Kalka–Shimla mountain railway).
• Towards Amritsar / Jammu, also connecting to Patiala, Bathinda and Sri Ganganagar.

There is a second, smaller station, Ambala City railway station, serving the city side. As Ambala Cantt is a major junction, reserved tickets on popular trains can sell out well ahead, so book in advance through IRCTC where possible.

By Car / Road

Ambala sits at the confluence of several major highways. The most important is NH 44 (the old NH 1), the Delhi–Amritsar corridor. NH 22 towards Shimla and the Shipki La international border begins here, the Ambala–Jodhpur NH 152 originates here, and NH 7 (towards Dehradun via Himachal) and NH 344 also pass through. Approximate driving distances:

• New Delhi — about 200 km (NH 1, 6/4-lane).
• Chandigarh — about 50 km via the 4-lane Ambala–Chandigarh Expressway.
• Dehradun — about 150 km.
• Ludhiana — about 111 km.
• Shimla — about 180 km.
• Jammu — about 400 km.

Ambala Cantonment bus stand sits on the main national highway, directly opposite the railway station, making interchange easy. It is a well-connected interstate terminus with services reaching as far as Udhampur (Jammu) in the north and Kota (Rajasthan), Gwalior and Bhind (Madhya Pradesh) to the south. Luxury, AC and video-coach buses to destinations across north India run around the clock.

Local transport in Ambala depends largely on which part of the twin city you are in, since Ambala Cantt and Ambala City are a few kilometres apart. Both government and private buses run along all the major roads connecting the two centres, and auto-rickshaws and cycle rickshaws are easy to find for short hops and last-mile travel. Shared autos run on fixed routes between the Cantt and City. Agree on the fare before setting off, as metered autos are uncommon. Taxis can be arranged through local operators such as Mahajan Cabs.

• Ambala Air Force Station (Ambala Air Force Base) — one of the oldest air bases in the world and the home base of the IAF's Jaguar squadron; it is also where India's Rafale fighters were first inducted. This is an active military installation, so it can only be seen from outside; there is no public access.
• Holy Redeemer Church, 114 Lawrence Road (on Commercial Road), ☏ +91 171 264 0636 — a colonial-era church in the Cantonment.
• St. Paul's Church (on Alexandra Road) — the ruins of a large colonial church, with a Christian cemetery on the same road; a relic of Ambala's long British military history.
• Sis Ganj Gurudwara — a historic Sikh shrine in Ambala City associated with the Sikh Gurus, and an important local place of worship.
• Patel Park — a green public park and a pleasant open space in the city.

Ambala is more of a working and transit town than a sightseeing destination, so the main things "to do" revolve around its markets, food streets and its role as a base for onward trips. You can spend an afternoon browsing and grazing through the bazaars of Ambala City, walk or exercise in the local parks, and use the city as a launch point for day trips or onward journeys into the Himalayan foothills around Chandigarh, Kalka and Shimla.

• Huda Town Park, Sector 34, Ambala Cantt — a popular local park used for running, yoga and other forms of exercise.

Ambala has a strong street-food and dhaba culture, and is locally famous for its food. Punjabi and north-Indian fare dominates, with plenty of vegetarian options alongside non-vegetarian dishes.

• Halwai Bazar, near Union Bank, Nicholson Road — a market street known for chaat and sweets. Try the golgappas (with several flavours), Kishori Lal's offerings, kachori, and Omi Ke Chole Bhature at nearby Vijay Ratan Chowk.
• Puran Singh Ka Dhabha, Shop No. 10, Grand Trunk Road, Shastri Market, Dhandari Kalan (next to the flyover), ☏ +91 74041 77758 — a classic Punjabi dhaba with vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Note that the original is next to the bus stand, while the ones facing the highway are copies.

Vegetarian food is very widely available throughout the city; the dhaba and bazaar food described above is mostly vegetarian-friendly.

As in most of north India, the everyday drinks here are masala chai (spiced milk tea) from roadside stalls, lassi (sweet or salted yoghurt drinks) and fresh seasonal juices such as sugarcane juice in summer. Tea stalls and small cafés cluster around the markets and the bus and railway stations. Tap water is not reliably safe to drink, so stick to bottled or properly filtered water.

• Budget — A P Residency, 3-4 Police Line Road, Ambala City (Kalka Crossing), ☏ +91 95181 14177, [email protected] — basic accommodation with small rooms and free Wi-Fi; pets are not allowed.
• Mid-range — Kingfisher Hotel, on National Highway 1, ☏ +91 171-443732 — a Haryana Tourism (government-run) hotel on the highway. BATRA Palace, near the main Cantonment bus stand, is another centrally located option.
• Upscale / heritage — Amra Pali Resort, near Sena Nagar crossing, is among the larger resort-style properties in the area.

Ambala is well known across the region for its wholesale and cloth markets, and shopping is one of the main reasons people come into Ambala City. The bazaars are the place to look for fabric and textiles at wholesale rates. The city is also a noted manufacturing centre for scientific and laboratory instruments, mixer-grinders ("mixies") and sewing machines, and these locally made goods are a characteristic Ambala buy. As with most Indian markets, bargaining is expected in the smaller shops and bazaar stalls, though fixed-price and branded outlets are not negotiable.

• Chandigarh — about 50 km (around 1 hour) via the Ambala–Chandigarh Expressway; Le Corbusier's planned city, with the Rock Garden and Sukhna Lake.
• Kalka — about 40 km; the gateway to the hills and the start of the UNESCO-listed Kalka–Shimla narrow-gauge mountain railway.
• Shimla — about 180 km (3.5–4 hours by road); the former summer capital of British India and Himachal Pradesh's hill-station capital.
• Patiala — under 100 km in Punjab; known for its fort (Qila Mubarak), royal heritage and the "Patiala peg".
• Kurukshetra — about 45 km; a major Hindu pilgrimage town associated with the Mahabharata and the Brahma Sarovar.
• Yamunanagar — about 50 km; an industrial town and a stop on the way towards Dehradun and Haridwar.