Lethem

Lethem is a small border town of roughly 3,000 people in the far southwest of Guyana, serving as the administrative seat and principal gateway of the Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo region (GY-UT). It sits at about 73 m above sea level in the savannahs near the Guyanese Highlands, on the banks of the Takutu River, which here forms the international boundary with Brazil. The town was named after Sir Gordon James Lethem, governor of British Guiana from 1941 to 1947. Today it functions above all as a crossing point: directly across the river lies the Brazilian town of Bonfim, and since the completion of the Takutu River Bridge in 2008, the two countries are linked by road rather than ferry. The result is a frontier settlement where Guyanese, Brazilian, and Amerindian cultures and currencies mingle freely.

Lethem is the natural base for exploring the Rupununi — Guyana's vast savannah-and-mountain country, dotted with Amerindian communities, cattle ranches, and dramatic uplands such as the Kanuku and Moco Moco mountains. The town itself is modest, with English colonial-style houses scattered throughout, but it draws a steady trickle of overland travellers moving between Georgetown and Brazil, and a notable surge of visitors at Easter for its celebrated rodeo.

Lying just north of the Equator, Lethem has a hot, fairly constant climate: daytime highs sit just above 30°C year-round, with nighttime lows roughly ten degrees cooler. The rainy season runs from April to August, when the overland road from the coast becomes difficult and driving conditions are poor. The drier months either side of that window are the most comfortable time to visit — though Easter falls within the early rains and remains the town's busiest period thanks to the rodeo.

By Plane

Trans Guyana Airways operates two daily flights (no service on Sundays) between Georgetown and Lethem. These depart from the smaller Ogle municipal airport near downtown Georgetown — not the international airport — and are by far the most comfortable way to reach Lethem from the capital. Luggage allowance is very limited, so confirm your baggage limit before arriving at the airport. Although this is a domestic flight, non-citizens must carry a passport. One-way fares were around GYD 30,000 and round trips around GYD 55,000 (prices may be out of date). Travellers from Brazil can alternatively fly into Boa Vista and complete the last leg overland.

By Train

By Car / Road

The only road link between Guyana's coast and Lethem is the dirt road from Georgetown through Linden. It is kept passable despite frequent bridge repairs and hill slides, but conditions are poor in the rainy season. From the Brazilian side, the paved road from Boa Vista (125 km to the south) is in much better shape, crossing the Takutu River Bridge into town. Note that Guyana drives on the left — watch for traffic from what may feel like the "wrong" direction.

By bus: From Georgetown, overnight minibuses leave every evening around 18:00 and arrive in Lethem around noon the next day, running year-round (the slower full-size buses, which could take up to 36 hours in the wet season, have been discontinued). From Linden onward the road is rough and potholed, so don't expect to sleep. Tickets run roughly GYD 9,000–10,000. From the south, at least one daily bus runs from Boa Vista to Bonfim (R$ 13 by bus, R$ 35 by minibus); from Bonfim, take a taxi or walk across the border.

Border formalities: Everyone, including Brazilians, must obtain a Brazilian exit stamp from the Polícia Federal in Bonfim before being admitted to Guyana. Citizens of many countries may enter Guyana visa-free, but your passport must be valid for at least six months and you must hold proof of yellow fever vaccination administered at least ten days before entry.

Lethem is small and best navigated on foot or by car; most of the town is walkable. There is no formal public transit system. For excursions into the surrounding Rupununi — the Kanuku and Moco Moco mountains, nearby waterfalls, and Amerindian communities — it is usual to arrange a vehicle or guided tour, which several hotels can organise. Remember the left-hand traffic when crossing roads or driving.

• English colonial-style houses — Scattered throughout the town, these are a low-key reminder of Lethem's British Guiana heritage and make for a pleasant wander on foot.

• St. Ignatius — Cross the wooden bridge from Lethem to reach this Amerindian community. There are no real businesses beyond a cashew-factory cooperative run by local women, but it offers an authentic window into the daily life of the area's Amerindian population. (updated Nov 2015)

• Mount Roraima (on the horizon) — At 2,810 m, Guyana's highest mountain and the tri-border point with Brazil and Venezuela. It can reportedly be seen from Lethem on a clear day, despite lying over 200 km away.

• Kanuku and Moco Moco mountains — The ranges framing the Lethem area, with falls and trails; the obvious focus for getting out into the Rupununi landscape.

• Rupununi Rodeo — Lethem's signature event, held around Easter each year. It draws large crowds from across Guyana and the bordering parts of Brazil and is the single best time to experience the town's frontier-ranching culture. (updated Nov 2015)

• Waterfalls — Two falls are the popular targets for day trips: Kumu Falls and Moco Moco (Mocomoco) Falls.

• Day trip to the Kanuku Mountains — Easily visited from Lethem for hiking and savannah scenery.

Eating options in Lethem are limited, and produce can be hit-or-miss — check best-before dates when buying packaged food, and consider bringing some of your own supplies for longer stays. What's on offer leans toward simple Guyanese creole cooking, with Brazilian influence close to the border.

• Restaurant T & M — A basic local eatery at the bus station; you can also change currency here. (updated Nov 2015)
• Betty's Creole Corner — Local creole food and snacks.
• Hotel restaurants — The Takutu Hotel and other lodgings serve meals; at the Takutu, orders often need to be placed in advance.

It is wise to bring bottled mineral water, as tap water should not be relied upon. For a drink, the Takutu Hotel has a bar on its grounds — convivial but known to get noisy in the evenings. Given the border economy, both Guyanese and Brazilian drinks turn up in town.

Budget

• Savannah Hotel — A four-minute walk from the border, offering both rooms and air-conditioned cabin accommodation. It has a general store stocking food and goods, friendly staff, and can arrange jungle tours. From about USD 15/night.

Mid-range

• Takutu Hotel, Rupununi Rd — A friendly little establishment. Water may not be hot, but service is personal and a few rooms have air conditioning. The restaurant serves good food (order ahead), and there's a bar on the grounds — request a room away from it, as it can get loud.

Upscale / heritage

For health and supplies, Rupununi Pharmacy and Variety Store (Block 'A', Airport Road) is the local pharmacy. Note that malaria is a concern in the area — arrive with proper medication and insect repellent — and typhoid, cholera, and botulism risks mean caution with roadside food hygiene.

Lethem has two banks — the Guyana Bank for Trade and Industry (GBTI) and Republic Bank — but cash is the more practical option. Alongside the Guyanese dollar, some places accept US dollars, and Brazilian reais are readily accepted given the border trade. Local exchange rates don't always track official ones, so with the right currency in hand you can sometimes do well against the cambistas (money-changers); historically it has paid to buy USD in Manaus or Boa Vista to exchange for GYD in Lethem. If you're crossing into Brazil, carry plenty of Guyanese dollars to convert to reais.

For shopping, a small establishment next to the Takutu Hotel sells Amerindian crafts — some genuinely unique pieces, though opening hours are erratic. Around town you may also come across bicycles, shoes, and home electronics brought in via the border trade.

• Bonfim, Brazil — Just across the Takutu River; a more expensive but safer town and the gateway onward into Brazil.
• Kanuku Mountains — An easy day trip from Lethem into Rupununi savannah and uplands.
• Boa Vista, Brazil — About 125 km south by paved road via Bonfim; the Roraima state capital and onward hub toward the rest of Brazil or up to Venezuela.
• Georgetown — Guyana's capital, reachable by overnight minibus or by Trans Guyana Airways flight; the country's main coastal city.
• Linden — A waypoint on the overland road to the coast, roughly midway toward Georgetown.