Paramakatoi

Paramakatoi (sometimes spelled Paramakotoi) is a remote Patamona Amerindian village set high in the Pakaraima Mountains of Guyana's interior highlands. Though this guide files it under the Essequibo Islands-West Demerara identity supplied for the request, the village itself sits among the savannah-and-rainforest plateaus of Guyana's deep interior — closer in spirit and geography to Potaro-Siparuni than to the coastal Demerara belt. It is one of the most isolated inhabited places a traveller can reasonably reach in the country, and arriving here is less a holiday than a step back in time into subsistence highland life.

This is not a "getaway" in the resort sense — it is a working village where walking is the primary form of transport, many residents have never seen an automobile, and a two-day trek through the rainforest to a neighbouring settlement is considered unremarkable. The reward is a landscape of unspoiled rainforest, waterfalls, and traditional bark-, mud- and thatch-built homes, and a community known for its warmth. Courtesy matters here: everyone is greeted with a "good day, sir/miss," and a friendly, respectful manner will open every door.

The setting is highland and cooler than Guyana's humid coast, but the interior follows the same broad wet/dry rhythm. The dry season (roughly September–April, with a secondary drier window) is the practical time to visit: trails are passable, flights are more dependable, and overland supply routes function. Avoid the heaviest rains, when the already-difficult trails turn dangerous and flying becomes unreliable.

By Plane

The only practical way in is to fly. Trans Guyana Airways operates small-aircraft service to Paramakatoi's airstrip (IATA PMT) from Ogle Airport (OGL), Georgetown's city airport. There are a few flights a week, but the schedule flexes according to demand rather than running fixed timetables, so confirm directly and be flexible with dates. Carry your passport — it may be checked before departure from Ogle or on return. There is no formal terminal transport at the village end; the airstrip is within the settlement and you walk from there.

By Car / Road

There is no conventional road access. During the dry season an overland trail from Lethem (on the Brazilian border) is sometimes usable, primarily for hauling in supplies. The distance looks short on a map, but trail conditions make it roughly a two-day drive with no gas stations, hotels, or restaurants en route. As of October 2016 one traveller was advised the Lethem trail was dangerous to drive but safe to walk — take local advice on current conditions before attempting it, and never set out without a guide and full self-sufficiency in fuel, food and water.

Walk, walk, walk. Paramakatoi is a walking village and you will cover it — and the surrounding trails — on foot. There are a couple of ATVs in town that can be hired with a driver for short trips; this is also the way to shorten longer journeys (see Go Next). There is no metro, no bus network, no ride-hailing, and no taxi fleet. The trails around the village cross and re-cross each other and are easy to confuse, so for anything beyond the village core, hire a local to escort you.

• The surrounding rainforest and highlands — truly beautiful and unspoiled, the main reason to make the journey. Free to wander, but take a guide on anything but the shortest paths.

• Waterfalls — several fall within walking distance on the trails around the village. Local residents will happily escort you for a few dollars; given how confusing the overlapping trails are, this is the wise (and safe) way to find them.

• Traditional architecture — many buildings in town are built with traditional bark, mud and thatch techniques. Wandering the village to see vernacular Patamona construction is a sight in itself.

• Waterfall walks — the signature activity. Hire a resident guide for a few dollars to reach the falls on the surrounding trails.

• Rainforest trekking — longer guided walks through the highland forest, including the multi-hour route over to Kato (see Go Next).

• Village and cultural immersion — the real experience here is observing and respectfully sharing in subsistence highland life: cassava processing, traditional building, and daily community rhythms.

Food is local, seasonal and home-cooked — there are no restaurants, but it is possible to hire a cook. Staples are cassava bread and pepper pot, the traditional slow-cooked meat dish. Chicken and eggs are available year-round; other fresh items depend entirely on the season. At the right times of year you can get pineapple, mango, watermelon, paw-paw (papaya) and banana. Plan to be flexible and to eat what the season and the village provide.

• Pepper pot — the signature meat dish, traditionally cooked down with cassareep; ask your host or hired cook.
• Cassava bread — the everyday staple, made from processed cassava.
• Seasonal fruit — pineapple, mango, watermelon, paw-paw and banana when in season.

Tap and bottled water cannot be relied on. Water comes from a spring or is collected as rainwater and must be boiled before drinking. Bottled water is not readily available, so arrive carrying as much as you reasonably can. Alcohol is available — both rum and beer (including cheap Brazilian beer from the shops) — alongside several local fermented drinks, notably parakari and cassiri (cassava beers) that are central to highland Amerindian culture. There are no formal bars or cafés.

Options are minimal, informal, and impossible to book ahead — you turn up and space is found.

• Budget — the village guest house: a simple four-bedroom guest house. You cannot contact the manager before arriving, but space is usually available on arrival.
• Budget — the bible college: a small bible college that may also have space for travellers.
• If both are full: ask at the haberdashery — locals will help find you somewhere to stay.

There is no market district, but numerous small shops sell basic necessities, and you can even find cheap Brazilian beer (a sign of the village's overland trade links toward Lethem and Brazil). Stock up in Georgetown before flying in — anything beyond staples will be unavailable, and selection depends on what supplies have most recently come in by air or trail. Bring cash in small denominations; this is not a card-payment economy.

• Kato (~4-hour walk, or a little over 1 hour by hired ATV) — a neighbouring village set on open savannah, a pleasant change from Paramakatoi's rainforest; small and just as remote.
• Lethem (~2-day overland trail in the dry season, on the Brazilian border) — the regional gateway town and supply link toward Brazil; only attempt the trail with a guide and full self-sufficiency.
• Georgetown (short flight via Trans Guyana Airways to Ogle) — Guyana's capital and the practical connection point for onward national and international travel.