Tasiilaq

Tasiilaq — long known by its colonial name Ammassalik — is the largest town on the entire east coast of Greenland, home to roughly 1,800 people perched on the sheltered shore of King Oscar's Harbour (Kong Oscars Havn) on Ammassalik Island, about 100 km south of the Arctic Circle. Danish explorer Gustav Holm reached the isolated Ammassalik Inuit here in 1884, and a trading and mission station was founded in 1894. The name Ammassalik means "the place with the capelin" (the small fish ammassat), while the locals' own name, Tasiilaq, means "the one that looks like a lake," after the calm fjord the town overlooks; the town was officially renamed Tasiilaq in modern times. East Greenland's Tunumiit dialect, distinct from West Greenlandic, is still widely spoken.

The town is dramatically set between steep peaks and the iceberg-dotted Tasiilaq fjord, with brightly painted wooden houses scattered up and down the hillsides. People here still live partly by hunting and fishing, supplemented by administration, services and a growing trickle of adventure tourism — Tasiilaq is the practical base camp for hiking, kayaking and dog-sledding across the Ammassalik region. It is the most accessible "wild" Greenland you can reach: served by a daily summer flight chain from Iceland, yet ringed by trail-less mountains where you are quickly on your own.

The climate is Arctic. Summer (late June to August) brings long daylight, temperatures around 5–10 °C, blooming tundra and open water for boats; this is the prime season for hiking and iceberg tours. Winter is cold, dark and snowbound, but it is the season for dog-sledding and the northern lights. Spring (March–May) offers firm snow and lengthening days, the classic dog-sledding window. Shoulder seasons can strand travellers when sea ice or weather grounds the helicopter, so build slack into any itinerary.

By Plane

There is no airstrip at Tasiilaq itself. The gateway is Kulusuk Airport (KUS) on the neighbouring island, which receives flights from Reykjavík (and seasonally Akureyri) in Iceland with Icelandair, plus Air Greenland connections. From Kulusuk, the final leg to Tasiilaq is a roughly 10-minute Air Greenland helicopter hop (the helicopter station sits in town) or, in open-water months, a boat transfer of about 30–45 minutes across the sound. The helicopter is expensive and weather-dependent; if you have booked accommodation, the hotels and campground will usually arrange to collect you from Kulusuk by boat, which is often cheaper and more reliable in summer.

Tasiilaq is compact enough to explore entirely on foot, but be prepared for steep climbs — the town is built across a series of hills and almost everything involves walking up or down. There are no public buses; a small taxi service operates for those who would rather not haul luggage up the slopes. To reach the outlying settlements of the Ammassalik fjord (Kuummiut, Sermiligaaq) or Isortoq, you must charter a local boat in summer or book an Air Greenland helicopter, both arranged through the hotels or local operators. For wilderness trips you simply walk out of town and into the mountains — there is no transport infrastructure beyond the town edge, so plan self-sufficiently.

• Ammassalik Museum — housed in the town's first church (designed by P. A. Cortzen, consecrated 1908; the museum opened in 1990), close to the harbour. Its permanent exhibition covers East Greenlandic hunting culture: traditional masks, old and new tupilak figures, kayaks, sleds and decorated utility items, plus busts by sculptor Eigil Knuth and works by local artists. The single most important cultural sight in town.
• Flower Valley (Blomsterdalen) — a short walk out of town past the cemetery leads into a valley ringed by steep peaks, famous for its intense burst of Arctic wildflowers during the short summer; a classic easy hike and viewpoint.
• King Oscar's Harbour (Kong Oscars Havn) — the natural deep-water harbour the town wraps around, named for King Oscar II of Sweden and Norway; the working heart of Tasiilaq and the departure point for most boat tours.
• The Church and cemetery — the modern town church and the hillside cemetery with its white crosses overlooking the fjord are quietly photogenic.
• Icebergs of Tasiilaq fjord — calved ice drifts right up to the town shore; the views are constant and free, and best appreciated from a boat tour.

East Greenland is a paradise for hiking, alpine climbing and sea kayaking, and Tasiilaq is the launch point. Iceberg-watching boat tours (half- or full-day) can be booked through any hotel and weave among the floating ice; many combine a stop at the abandoned village of Ikkatteq. Helicopter glacier tours, with or without a landing, reach nearby glaciers. In winter and spring, dog-sledding with a local musher is the signature experience — the traditional Greenlandic sled is still working transport for the area's hunters, and trips range from a few hours to multi-day expeditions. Hiking can begin straight from town or from a settlement reached by boat; the terrain is trail-less and committing, so carry an EPIRB and ensure your travel insurance includes Search and Rescue, as you are quickly far beyond help. Sea kayaking among the icebergs is another regional speciality.

Dining is limited and centred on the hotels, with traditional Greenlandic ingredients — seal, fish, Arctic char, and game — appearing alongside Danish-style fare. The restaurant at Hotel Ammassalik (Hotel Angmagssalik) is the main sit-down option, generally regarded as serving food of high quality with sweeping fjord views. The Red House also serves meals to guests and visitors. For something cheaper and quicker, the sports centre canteen sells fast food such as fried chicken, fries and hot dogs. Beyond these, eating is informal — locals are welcoming and will point you toward home-based options. Self-caterers should stock up at Pilersuisoq, as there is no broad restaurant scene; vegetarians and travellers with dietary restrictions should plan to self-provision.

There is a bar by the harbour, and the hotels (Hotel Ammassalik and the Red House) have bars serving beer, wine and spirits to guests and visitors — the main places for an evening drink. Alcohol is expensive and its sale can be restricted on certain days, so don't count on buying it freely. Tap water in Tasiilaq comes from clean Arctic sources and is safe to drink; meltwater from streams on hikes is generally drinkable but use judgement. Coffee and tea are staples of any social visit and offered generously in Greenlandic homes.

• Budget: The Red House campground, across from the heliport and run by the Red House, is the most affordable option, with tent pitches and basic facilities for hikers; the Red House also offers dormitory beds. Staying with a local family or renting a hut can be arranged through the hotels and is often the most authentic budget choice.
• Mid-range: The Red House (Robert Peroni's well-known guesthouse) offers comfortable rooms, meals and a strong base for organising expeditions and tours.
• Upscale: Hotel Ammassalik (Hotel Angmagssalik) (☏ +299 98 12 93, [email protected]) is the town's full-service hotel, clean and comfortable with a restaurant and panoramic views over King Oscar Fjord. It is the most established lodging in East Greenland. Rates across all tiers are high by global standards, as is normal throughout Arctic Greenland; book well ahead for the short summer season.

The main shop is Pilersuisoq, the general store in the town centre, which stocks groceries, household goods and basic supplies (cards accepted; prices reflect the cost of shipping to the Arctic). The hotels sell souvenirs, sealskin and fur goods, and locally carved tupilak figures — small, intricate bone or stone carvings that are East Greenland's signature craft and make the most distinctive purchase. Hiking and camping consumables can be found at the campground. There is no bargaining culture; posted prices are the prices. Note that exporting some animal products (sealskin, certain ivory) is subject to CITES rules, so check what your home country allows before buying.

• Kulusuk (~10 min by helicopter / ~30–45 min by boat) — the airport island and an iconic, traditional east-coast village known for drum-dancing.
• Kuummiut (~40 km by boat or helicopter) — the largest Ammassalik-fjord settlement, a hunting-and-fishing village with the region's only fish factory and superb hiking.
• Sermiligaaq (~100 km north) — a remote peninsula settlement at the foot of the Knud Rasmussen and Kârale glaciers, the "beautiful glacier fjord."
• Ikkatteq (boat day-trip) — an atmospheric abandoned village, usually visited combined with iceberg-watching.
• Isortoq (by boat or helicopter) — a small, very traditional hunting settlement south of Ammassalik Island.