Narsarsuaq

Narsarsuaq is a small village in southern Greenland, in Kommune Kujalleq, built around its airport at the head of the Tunulliarfik fjord. The airport was constructed in 1941 by the US military as "Bluie West One," a key Atlantic ferrying base in World War II, and is now in commercial use — when you arrive in southern Greenland by international flight, this is where you land. The village itself can feel uncharming, most of its buildings existing simply for the sake of the airport, but the surrounding country is spectacular: glacier-fed fjords full of icebergs, the inland ice within walking distance, and the cradle of Norse Greenland just across the water.

The first thing to do on arrival is to head to the Blue Ice Explorer Café / Tourist Office / Museum, where you can leave your bags and find out what to see and do. As with everything in Greenland, the availability of transport and excursions depends heavily on the weather, so plans here are best kept flexible. Narsarsuaq is above all a gateway and a base — for the Norse sites at Qassiarsuk (Brattahlid) and Igaliku across the fjord, for the ice cap, and for the wider south.

Summer (mid-June to late September) is the season: this is when international flights run, the ferry calls, and the hiking, boating and glacier trips are open. Daylight is long and temperatures can be pleasant, though weather is changeable. Outside summer the village is very quiet and access narrows. The mosquitoes and flies of high summer are a genuine nuisance — bring a head net and repellent.

By Plane

Narsarsuaq Airport (IATA: UAK) is one of only two airports in Greenland large enough for Atlantic traffic (the other being Kangerlussuaq). Air Greenland has operated flights from Copenhagen, and Icelandair flies from Keflavík; it is also now possible to fly in from the Faroe Islands via Atlantic Airways. Domestically, Air Greenland connects Narsarsuaq with Narsaq, Qaqortoq, Alluitsup Paa and Nanortalik to the south, and with Paamiut, Nuuk and other points to the west. The airport is the village.

Most places in the village are within walking distance. A taxi can be arranged through the hotel or tourist office, and if you need to reach the harbour the hotel runs a bus that will pick you up — the fare is about 10 DKK, or free if you are staying at the hotel. There is no public bus network or ride-hailing. Anything further afield can almost only be reached by boat: check with the tourist office, or ask a fishing boat at the harbour for a lift. Boat operators such as Diskoline run public trips, and the tourist office arranges boats to most towns in the south.

• Signal Hill (Danish: Signalhøjen) — an easy climb from the village rewarded with a beautiful view over the fjord; the classic short outing.

• Hospital Valley and the burned-down hospital ruin — northeast of town stands the lone surviving fireplace and chimney of a hospital that burned to the ground, an official local sight and the gateway to the scenic Flower Valley.

• Icebergs from the harbour and beach — head to the harbour or shoreline to watch icebergs sail past and hear them crack and break — a defining Narsarsuaq experience. Free.

• Narsarsuaq Museum — a small museum (at the Blue Ice Explorer base) on the area's WWII "Bluie West One" history and Norse heritage; the first stop on arrival.

• Hike to the ice cap and Narsarsuaq Glacier — follow the road to the burned-down hospital and walk up through the scenic Flower Valley (Danish: Blomsterdalen); an almost vertical 300 m climb (the steepest parts roped) brings you to a stunning view of the glacier, with the round trip about 20 km. An easy walk apart from the climb, and feasible for reasonably fit walkers. Guided trips can be arranged through the tourist office.

• Boat trip to the Norse settlements — cross the fjord by boat to Qassiarsuk (Brattahlid), Erik the Red's settlement, or to Igaliku — both part of the Kujataa UNESCO World Heritage farming landscape.

• Hiking the wider area — hiking maps open up longer routes, but trails are only suggestive and unmarked; stick to green (easy, along roads) and blue (fairly easy) routes, treat red as difficult and avoid black routes even if experienced. Carry a net and repellent against the summer flies.

• Iceberg and fjord boat tours — small boats ply the waters south of Narsarsuaq constantly; the tourist office and Diskoline arrange trips, and you may catch a lift on a fishing boat.

Eating options are very limited. Fast food can be bought at the airport, and you can usually get a bun, coffee or cake at the tourist office / Blue Ice Explorer Café. A restaurant operates in the hotel and is the main place for a proper meal. Otherwise self-cater from the Pilersuisoq supermarket. Food here leans on Greenlandic staples — fish, reindeer and what the land provides; vegetarian and specialist diets are barely catered for, so bring what you need.

There is a small bar in the hotel serving local beer (Tuborg) along with various imported drinks and some interesting cocktails. The general store also sells some alcohol. Alcohol is expensive in Greenland, so it is worth bringing your own if you can. The Blue Ice Explorer Café serves coffee. Tap water is glacial and safe to drink straight from the tap.

• Budget: The youth hostel sits about 600 m northeast of the airport, just off the main road; rates are listed on the Blue Ice café website. The cheapest option of all is to camp — pitch a tent away from the fuel-tank areas, the airport and the town centre and nobody will mind; if you camp near (but not directly on) the water you'll fall asleep to the music of the icebergs, though avoid the shoreline itself, as a rolling iceberg can send a wave ashore.
• Mid-range: Hotel Narsarsuaq is the more expensive solution and the village's main hotel; take the airport bus (free if you stay there) or ask at the tourist office. It houses the village's restaurant and bar.
• Upscale / heritage: Narsarsuaq has no upscale or heritage-grade property; Hotel Narsarsuaq is the top tier locally.

Shopping is minimal. Souvenirs and postcards are sold at the hotel and the tourist office. There is a Pilersuisoq supermarket (+299 58 33 12) — easiest found by asking directions — but it stocks little beyond basics; notably it sells dried reindeer meat for eating while hiking or camping, but not much dried camping food, so bring proper trekking provisions from outside Greenland. Prices are in Danish kroner (DKK) and fixed; bargaining is not the custom.

• Qassiarsuk (Brattahlid) (boat across the fjord) — Erik the Red's Norse settlement, with reconstructed longhouse and church, part of the Kujataa World Heritage site.
• Igaliku (boat plus short walk) — beautifully sited Norse and farming village within the World Heritage landscape.
• Narsaq (helicopter or boat) — sheep-farming town on an iceberg-filled fjord.
• Qaqortoq (helicopter or ferry) — southern Greenland's largest town, with the Stone & Man sculptures.
• Nanortalik (ferry/helicopter south) — Greenland's southernmost town and gateway to Tasermiut Fjord.
• The inland ice / Narsarsuaq Glacier (day hike) — a close encounter with the edge of the Greenland ice cap.