Montezuma

Montezuma is a small, bohemian beach town near the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica's Puntarenas province. Once a quiet fishing village, it grew into one of the country's original backpacker and counterculture havens — locals and visitors alike nickname it "Montefuma" for its relaxed, anything-goes atmosphere. Today it blends that hippie-surf heritage with yoga retreats, wellness tourism, and a steady trickle of independent travellers drawn by jungle-backed beaches, a famous tiered waterfall, and easy access to one of Costa Rica's first protected wild areas. It is compact, walkable, and refreshingly undeveloped compared with the resort strips farther north on the peninsula.

The town's character is defined by its setting: dense tropical forest tumbles almost to the water, howler and white-faced monkeys move through the trees, and the beaches alternate between calm swimming coves and rocky tide pools. Most of the action is concentrated in a handful of streets fanning back from the beach, with restaurants, sodas, dive shops, and craft vendors clustered together. The main road heads inland and uphill toward the waterfalls and the village of Delicias; another path leads south toward more secluded beaches and, eventually, the Cabo Blanco reserve.

The best time to visit is the dry season (roughly December to April), when skies are clear and the roads — particularly the rough stretch between Cóbano and Montezuma — are easiest to travel. The green (rainy) season, May to November, brings lush scenery, fuller waterfalls, fewer crowds, and lower prices, but afternoon downpours and muddier roads are the trade-off. Whenever you come, bring cash and plan to slow down.

By Plane

The nearest airstrip is Tambor (IATA: TMU), a short distance up the coast. Sansa operates daily flights from San José (SJO) that take around 30 minutes; from Tambor it's a quick taxi transfer to Montezuma. Flying is considerably more expensive than ground transport but saves several hours, so it's worth it if you're short on time. Travellers coming from Tamarindo or points farther north on the Nicoya Peninsula can also arrange shuttle services for the trip.

By Car / Road

The classic route is the ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera (a couple of US dollars per person, or about US$9 per car). From Paquera, drive or take a bus: the road from Paquera to Cóbano is reasonably well paved, but the final stretch from Cóbano to Montezuma is rough. By car, allow about one hour from Paquera to Montezuma. Obey the posted speed limits — traffic police do patrol the route.

There are also taxi boats from Herradura (near Jacó) directly to Montezuma, a useful shortcut that skips the ferry-and-drive combination. Within the region, inexpensive local buses connect Montezuma with Cóbano, Cabo Blanco, and Mal País.

The town itself is tiny and walking is by far the best way to get around — you can cross the centre on foot in a few minutes. For trips out of town, there is very inexpensive bus service from Montezuma to Cabo Blanco National Park and Mal País, which is the easiest way to reach the reserve without your own vehicle. Take the early bus (the 8AM departure for Cabo Blanco) to give yourself enough daylight for hiking. ATVs and dirt bikes can be rented locally if you want more independence on the rough back roads.

A practical note: the inland road toward the waterfalls and the jungle lodges is steep and partly gravel, with steps and stairs along the way — fine on foot but worth factoring in if you have heavy luggage or limited mobility.

• Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve — Costa Rica's first protected wild area, reached by local bus (take the 8AM bus to have enough time). It's roughly a 2-hour hike from the visitor's centre to the beach through forest rich in wildlife. Entry US$10 per person.
• Montezuma Waterfalls — The town's signature sight: three sets of falls cascading into one another, each with a pool to swim in at the base. To reach them, follow the creek up from town for about 15 minutes (any local can point the way). The climb to the upper falls is steep and can be genuinely dangerous; sturdy shoes are best, though it can be done in sandals. The trail up the hill from Hotel Amor de Mar leads to a beautiful three-tiered waterfall as well.
• The beaches — Walk south from the village to reach a string of quieter, more secluded beaches backed by forest. Closer in, the rocky tide pools (notably in front of Amor de Mar) offer surprisingly good viewing of fish and marine life.
• Tortuga Islands & Tambor Bay — Offshore islands popular for diving and snorkelling day trips, reached by boat from the Tambor area (see the Do section).

Montezuma is built for unhurried, active days. A variety of local tour companies offer ATV/dirt-bike rentals (around US$65 a day), horseback riding, and snorkelling tours.

• Waterfall jumping — Many visitors leap from the second tier of the falls (about 70 ft / 21 m) into the pool below. Catastrophic injuries are not uncommon here, so weigh the risk carefully and never jump without confirming the depth and conditions.
• Diving — Isla Tortuga Diving Club (next to Hotel Lys; ☏ +506 8823-0831 / +506 2642-0544; 10:00–18:00). A friendly Italian-run team runs boat dives out to Tambor Bay and the Tortuga Islands, with hotel pick-up and transfer to the boat at Tambor. Single tank ~US$50, two-tank dive ~US$90 per person.
• Yoga — Montezuma Yoga (at Hotel Los Mangos, on the main road toward the waterfalls; ☏ +506 8704-1632 / +506 2642-1311; [email protected]; 08:00–18:00). Daily classes and retreats for all levels, beginners welcome, mats provided. US$14 single class.
• Photography — Costa Rica Color Photography Tours (☏ +506 8334-9976; [email protected]). Half- and full-day photo tours plus daily and weekly classes to improve your digital camera skills.
• Surf, Spanish & TEFL — Proyecto Montezuma offers TEFL certification, a surf school, Spanish classes, and a tour agency under one roof.
• Golf — Los Delfines Golf Course, at Playa Tambor beside the Tambor airport, minutes from Montezuma.

Montezuma's dining skews toward an international, traveller-oriented crowd — expect hamburgers, pizza, sushi, pancakes, and muffins alongside Costa Rican staples. Prices run high for Costa Rica: even a simple casado (the typical plate of rice, beans, salad, and a protein) starts around US$5 and up. Vegetarian and vegan options are easy to find given the town's wellness bent.

• Playa de los Artistas — A standout for atmosphere and food, with great decor and a menu that changes daily. Upscale.
• El Sano Banano — A town institution: good service, strong sushi offerings, and free nightly movies with any meal over US$5. Mid-range.
• Cafe Orgánico — Dedicated vegetarian and vegan kitchen, good for plant-based diners. Mid-range.
• Lobster buffet — A somewhat hidden spot near the town centre serves a lobster buffet for around US$12 — excellent value if you can track it down. Budget–mid-range.
• Chico's — Central and convenient, but be warned: portions are overpriced and service is notoriously slow, with waits reportedly around 90 minutes regardless of the hour. Mid-range.

The town has a small but lively bar scene that mixes locals and travellers. Tap water in Costa Rica is generally treated and considered safe to drink in most areas, but in a small coastal town many visitors prefer bottled or filtered water to be safe.

• Chico's Bar — In the centre of town, the default gathering spot to hang out with locals and other travellers.
• Panorama Bar (10 m above Butterfly Brewery; 400 m up the road to Delicias from the waterfall parking lot — follow signs for Sunshine Sanctuary; ☏ +506 7014-8394; [email protected]; 12:00–18:00). A hillside spot with ocean views and a pool. (updated Oct 2023)

For non-alcoholic options, the town's cafés serve good coffee and fresh fruit batidos (smoothies), and the wellness-focused spots lean into juices and organic fare.

Budget

• Casa de Hermano — A hostel in two large white houses (one with a sea view), set in well-kept gardens where monkeys and large iguanas turn up. Free kitchen use, but no hot water anywhere on site. From the bus stop facing the sea, go right; it's across the road from Hotel Lys. US$10–25.
• Hotel Lys — Right on the beach, a little overpriced for what it is but with a great location and family-style dinners nightly. Book ahead in peak season. ~US$15/night.
• There's also a basic camping site (~US$2 per person; two-person tent ~US$2/night) and Lucy's, north of town on the beach (~US$10 per person).

Mid-range

• Hotel 3 Monkeys (☏ +506 2642-1033) — A short walk from the beach in a quiet, peaceful setting away from the crowds and noise; easily accessible. US$40–70.
• Hotel Amor de Mar (☏ +506 2642-0262) — A short walk outside town across from the waterfalls, in a gorgeous oceanfront setting with hammocks, lawn chairs, and a tide pool good for spotting marine life. Mix of shared- and private-bathroom rooms. US$45–90 + tax.
• Hotel Casacolores (on the main road 1 km before the village; ☏ +506 2642-0283; check-in 2PM / check-out 11AM) — Family-run hotel in a quiet area with a pool, Wi-Fi, hammocks, and a fully equipped kitchen. ~US$40.

Upscale

• Anamaya (☏ +506 2642-1289) — A luxury boutique hotel and yoga retreat centre with organic food, right next to the Montezuma Waterfall. Primarily a retreat venue, but individual rooms are sometimes available. US$150–250/night + tax.
• Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (700 m north of the Puntarenas school; ☏ +506 2642-0636; toll-free +1 888-795-8494; [email protected]; check-in 11AM / check-out 2PM) — Beachfront resort with a spa, a restaurant with vegan options, yoga, and vacation packages. (updated Feb 2020)
• Sunshine Sanctuary Boutique Jungle Lodge (400 m up the hill toward Delicias, above Butterfly Brewery; ☏ +506 7014-8394) — A jungle hideaway with private balconies, AC, hot water, cable TV, fibre Wi-Fi, full breakfast, a guest kitchen, a yoga shala, and a private hanging bridge. It's about a 10-minute walk to the waterfalls along a private path and ~400 m from the beach (steep, partly gravel). Rates vary seasonally. (updated Oct 2023)

Come with enough cash to cover your whole stay (US dollars or colones both work). There is only one ATM in town, and it is frequently out of service; the nearest bank is in Cóbano, about 7 km away, and a round-trip taxi there runs around ₡10,000. Some shops accept credit cards, but not all, and the two medium-sized supermarkets that take cards won't give cash back.

For shopping, the streets are lined with stores selling clothing, swimwear, sunglasses, and souvenirs, plus itinerant merchants and craftspeople whose handmade wares are often genuinely unique — this is the place to pick up a one-off piece rather than mass-produced trinkets. Bargaining is low-key; prices on craft goods are sometimes negotiable, but haggling hard isn't the local style.

• Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve (~11 km / short bus ride) — Costa Rica's oldest protected area; forest hiking ending at a wild beach.
• Mal País & Santa Teresa (~1 hour by road) — World-class surf beaches and a more developed dining-and-nightlife scene on the peninsula's west side.
• Tambor (~30–45 min) — The nearest airstrip and gateway to Tortuga Islands boat trips and golf at Los Delfines.
• Jacó (~1 hour by US$40 express water taxi) — Lively beach town and the usual jumping-off point back toward San José.
• Monteverde (cloud forest; reachable by bus via Paquera, ferry to Puntarenas, then a direct bus) — Famous cloud-forest reserves, canopy walkways, and zip-lining.
• San José (capital; ~5–6 hours combining water taxi/taxi or bus from Jacó) — The country's main hub and international gateway.