Puerto Varas

Puerto Varas is a lakeside city on the southwestern shore of Lake Llanquihue, the second-largest lake in Chile, in the Los Lagos (Lakes) Region of southern Chile. Founded by German colonists who began arriving at the end of 1852, the town carries a strong Central-European stamp: much of the population descends from those settlers and later immigrants from Germany, Austria-Hungary and Switzerland, and the German heritage still shows in the architecture, the bakeries, and the symbols and signage you notice while strolling downtown. Among the settlers were Sudeten Germans from present-day Czech Republic, who founded the nearby village of Nueva Braunau, named after their hometown of Broumov (German: Braunau). The city had roughly 38,000 inhabitants as of 2012.

The setting is the main event. From the lakefront you look across the water to the near-perfect cone of Osorno Volcano and the snowcapped peaks of Mt. Calbuco and Mt. Tronador. Puerto Varas is the southernmost of a string of German-founded towns along the western shore of Lake Llanquihue — a string that also includes Llanquihue, Frutillar and Puerto Octay — and sits just 20 km (12 mi) north of the regional transport hub of Puerto Montt. The combination of mountains, lakes, forests and national parks within easy reach makes it one of the great bases for outdoor travel in the Chilean Lake District.

The region has a cool, wet, temperate climate. The most reliable window for clear volcano views and outdoor activity is the southern summer (December–February), which is also peak season — when accommodation prices rise and Petrohué's national park sees swarms of harmless but annoying insects (notably in January). Winter brings skiing on Osorno but more rain and cloud. Late spring and early autumn (November, March) are good shoulder-season compromises.

By Plane

The nearest airport is El Tepual (PMC) in Puerto Montt, about 30 km from Puerto Varas. It has regular flights to Santiago, Punta Arenas, Balmaceda and other domestic airports, served by carriers including LATAM (formerly LAN) and Sky Airline. From the airport, reach Puerto Varas by taxi/transfer or by connecting through Puerto Montt's bus services.

By Train

Puerto Varas has a railway station, but no passenger trains run south of Temuco — there is no passenger train service to the Los Ríos or Los Lagos regions. Trains are not a practical way to arrive.

By Car / Road

Puerto Varas sits on Route 5 (the Panamericana). The drive from Santiago is roughly 1,030 km and takes about 12 hours, passing through ten toll plazas en route.

By bus, the town is very well connected. There is very frequent minibus service from Puerto Montt (20 km away) and regular bus service from other cities. Tur-Bus, Cruz del Sur and Pullman run overnight services from Santiago at reasonable prices — semi-cama seats recline halfway and salón cama seats recline further; a snack and breakfast are available for a small fee.

From Argentina, you can arrive via the famous Lake Crossing from Bariloche, a bus-and-boat journey through the Andes, generally arranged via a tour agency (see Do).

Central Puerto Varas is compact and highly walkable — the plaza, waterfront, restaurants and most lodgings are within a few blocks of one another, and many guesthouses are described as "two minutes from the center" or "about 5 blocks from the main plaza." For destinations beyond town (Ensenada, Petrohué, Frutillar), local and regional buses are the standard option, with frequent minibuses shuttling along the lake and toward Puerto Montt. Taxis are available for shorter hops and airport transfers.

• Sacred Heart of Jesus Church (Sagrado Corazón de Jesús) — Set on a hill above town, this handsome church was built by the German colonizers and is the third Catholic church Puerto Varas has had. A signature landmark and a good orientation point.

• Pablo Fierro Museum — One of the town's cultural institutions, dedicated to the work of the local artist.

• Molino Machmar Art Centre — A cultural and arts venue in town.

• Antonio Felmer Museum — A museum documenting the area's colonial-settler heritage.

• Nativo Bosque Gallery — A local gallery among the town's cultural offerings.

• The lakefront / Costanera — The waterfront promenade frames the classic view across Lake Llanquihue to Osorno Volcano and the peaks of Calbuco and Tronador.

• Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park — About 70 km from Puerto Varas, this is the headline day trip, taking in the thundering Petrohué Falls and Lake Todos los Santos. Buses run via Ensenada toward the park; from the lake you can continue by boat. (Note: in January the park has annoying but harmless insects.)

• Osorno Volcano — Mt. Osorno has a road to the base of a chairlift that operates year-round — skiing in winter, sightseeing in summer.

• Volcano climbing — Puerto Varas is a great base for ascents of the surrounding volcanoes, including Osorno and Calbuco (guided).

• Crossing of the Andes to Bariloche — The classic bus-and-boat Cruce de Lagos runs from Puerto Varas across forested mountains and shimmering lakes to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina. The trip is best made west-to-east, with an overnight at a wilderness hotel midway.

• Adventure sports — The surrounding area is known for trekking, fly-fishing, rafting and kayaking.

• Casino — On Del Salvador, across the street from the Plaza near the waterfront.

Puerto Varas is known for traditional German dishes, above all Kuchen, alongside hearty Lakes District cooking, fresh local produce, craft beers and pastries. A handful of dependable spots:

• Danes — A nice, well-regarded restaurant in town.
• Chamaca Inn (on Del Salvador, a few blocks from the plaza) — A good place for typical Lakes District food.
• Barista (Walker Martínez 211) — Good sandwiches and pastries; an easy casual stop.

The town's drinking culture leans on its German roots — craft beers are a local specialty and widely available in shops, cafés and restaurants, as are German-style coffees-and-Kuchen café stops (try Barista on Walker Martínez). The casino near the waterfront offers a livelier evening option.

A good starting point for finding a room is the Sernatur office.

Budget

• Casa Azul, Manzanal 66 (about 5 blocks from the main plaza), ☏ +56 65-2329904 — A very nice hostel with communal kitchen, free WiFi, hot showers; all rooms have shared bathrooms. Around CLP 22,000 double, 15,000 single, 80,000 dorm.
• Hospedaje Carla Minte — A friendly, well-rated bed and breakfast at good value, two minutes from the center.
• Hostal Opapa Juan, Arturo Prat 107, ☏ +56 65 232234 — Comfortable beds with private bathroom and a good breakfast.

Mid-range

• Ellen Haus — Has Internet and includes a good breakfast.
• Haus Erika (10 minutes' walk from the center) — More expensive but more comfortable; good value for the comfort offered.

Upscale / lakeside

• Bordemundo (Cabañas Bordemundo), Camino Ensenada km 3, ☏ +56 962 919-443, [email protected] — Bed-and-breakfast cabins with beach access on Lake Llanquihue, overlooking Osorno Volcano. Check-in 13:00, check-out 11:30. Cabins around CLP 35,000 low season / 60,000 high season. (To find it: leave Puerto Varas toward Ensenada; about 1 km past the Jumbo supermarket, look for the sign on the left.)

Puerto Varas trades on its German-Chilean food heritage, so the best souvenirs are edible: Kuchen (German cakes), craft beers, pastries, chocolate and marmalades are sold across the town's shops, restaurants and cafés. The first Saturday of February is the annual Kuchen Day, a good time to buy and taste. For trip-planning and a steer on local crafts and services, the Sernatur (tourist information) office is a useful first stop.

• Petrohué Falls & Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park (~70 km) — Waterfalls, Lake Todos los Santos and boat trips; reached via Ensenada.
• Ensenada (~en route to the park) — Lakeside village and gateway to Osorno Volcano and the falls.
• Puerto Montt (~20 km) — Regional capital, port, and air/bus hub with onward connections across Patagonia.
• Frutillar (~north along the lake) — A pretty German-settler town with a museum of the area's first colonists; the lakeside section is the part most visitors come for.
• Osorno & Calbuco Volcanoes (nearby) — Year-round chairlift and skiing on Osorno; both are climbable with a guide.
• San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina — The end point of the classic Andes lake-crossing journey from Puerto Varas.