Punta de Choros

Punta de Choros is a small, sleepy fishing village on the coast of the Coquimbo Region, approximately 100 km north of La Serena. During the Chilean summer (December–March) it fills with domestic and international tourists drawn by the beach, the laid-back atmosphere, and the nearby Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt. For the rest of the year the village is quiet, with a permanent population of a few hundred people making their living from fishing.

The village sits on a dusty coastal plain backed by low hills, with a small harbour (caleta) where fishing boats land their catch and where the penguin-reserve boat tours depart. There is no real town centre — just a loose cluster of cabins, small shops, and family-run restaurants along unpaved roads. Punta de Choros is not a destination for comfort or nightlife; it is a place for nature, quiet beaches, and marine wildlife.

The climate is arid and sunny year-round, with very little rainfall (under 100 mm annually). Summer temperatures range from 18–25 °C with cool ocean breezes; winters are mild (10–18 °C) but can feel chilly with the coastal wind. The water is cold year-round (14–17 °C) due to the Humboldt Current, which is also the reason for the extraordinary marine biodiversity.

By Plane

The nearest airport is La Serena (LSC), approximately 100 km south. LATAM, JetSmart, and Sky Airline all fly to La Serena from Santiago (SCL, ~1 hour). From La Serena, you will need a car or the local minibus to reach Punta de Choros (see below). There is no airport transfer service to the village.

By Car / Road

The most practical way to reach Punta de Choros is by car. From La Serena, take the coast road north — the drive takes approximately 2 hours. After leaving the Pan-American Highway (Ruta 5), the road winds through semi-arid hills and is somewhat bumpy in places; a 4WD is recommended but not strictly necessary in dry conditions. There is no fuel station in Punta de Choros — fill up in La Serena or at a service station along Ruta 5.

If you prefer not to drive, a minibus runs between La Serena and Punta de Choros twice daily in each direction. The service is informal and operated by two local drivers — Eduardo (9377 0514) and Hector (8970 3499). The bus departs from Panadería El Griego in La Serena around 09:00 and again in the afternoon, returning from Punta de Choros around 09:00 and 15:00. Fares are CLP 4,500 per person one way. It is strongly advisable to call ahead to confirm the schedule, as departures can change. Your hostel in Punta de Choros can also call for you.

Day tours from La Serena are widely available through local operators and are a practical option if you only have one day.

Punta de Choros is very small — the entire village is walkable within 15 minutes. Streets are unpaved and dusty, and you will occasionally share them with vehicles, but distances are negligible. There is no public transport within the village, and none is needed. The dock (caleta) where boat tours depart is in the centre of the village.

Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt — the main attraction. This national reserve comprises three islands — Isla Choros, Isla Damas, and Isla Chañaral — protecting colonies of Humboldt penguins, Peruvian boobies, Inca terns, and other seabirds. Bottlenose dolphins, sea lions, sea otters, and occasionally whales are also seen. Boat tours depart from the village dock.

• Hours: Wed–Sun 09:00–17:30 in low season (April–November); daily 09:00–17:30 in high season (December–March). Last entry one hour before closing.
• Entry fee: Adults CLP 2,500; children CLP 1,000. Purchase tickets from the CONAF ranger station near the dock before boarding.
• Isla Damas is the only island where visitors may disembark. A 45-minute trail loops around the island, passing nesting sites and viewpoints. Landing time is nominally one hour (enforcement varies).

Isla Damas — 120 km north of La Serena, accessible only by boat from the caleta. Besides the penguin colonies, the island has sheltered coves for swimming and snorkelling, and sea lions haul out on the rocks year-round. Dolphins are frequently sighted during the crossing.

Penguin and wildlife boat tours — the signature Punta de Choros experience. Tours circle the three islands of the reserve, passing penguin nesting sites, sea lion colonies, and (with luck) pods of bottlenose dolphins. Boats can be hired at the dock; expect to pay around CLP 9,000 per person for a standard tour. Confirm departure times — boats leave when they have enough passengers.

Scuba diving — the cold, nutrient-rich Humboldt Current supports an underwater ecosystem of exceptional richness. Two dive operators serve the village:

• Memo Ruz — CLP 35,000 for the first dive, CLP 15,000 for additional dives, equipment included.
• ExploraSub — CLP 35,000 per dive, equipment included.

Water sports — kayaking, surfing, fishing, swimming, and snorkelling are popular, especially in summer. The water is cold (14–17 °C) year-round, so a wetsuit is recommended for any extended time in the sea.

Beach relaxation — the beaches around Punta de Choros are long, uncrowded, and backed by desert hills. Swimming is possible but the water is brisk. The best beaches are within walking distance of the village.

Restaurants are small, family-run operations, often identified by their Coca-Cola flags. There is no fine dining — expect simple, fresh seafood at reasonable prices. The best approach is to walk around and see what is open.

• Caleta Los Corrales — on the beach, one of the larger and more popular establishments, with ocean views and fresh seafood. Seafood empanadas, ceviche, and fried fish are the staples.
• Other family-run spots serve similar fare — fresh catches of the day, mariscal (mixed seafood), and the occasional pastel de jaiba (crab casserole). Prices are modest (CLP 4,000–8,000 for a main course).

Vegetarian options are very limited; most meals are centred on seafood and meat. There are no dedicated vegetarian restaurants.

There is no bar scene in Punta de Choros. Drinks are available at the restaurants and small shops — Chilean beer (Cristal, Escudo) and pisco are the main options. Water should be brought from La Serena or purchased in bottles — the village supply is not reliable for visitors. There are no cafés.

Budget

• El Tío Dogui — a family-run guesthouse with three rooms (two doubles and one with three twin beds). The family will invite you to join their meals. CLP 10,000 for a double room with shared bathroom. An authentic Chilean family-life experience.
• Camping — there is a camping area near the dock with basic facilities. The two dive shops also rent out simple cabins. Expect CLP 5,000–10,000 per person for camping or cabin accommodation.

Mid-range

• Cabañas (holiday cabins) are scattered through the village and can be booked through La Serena travel agencies or directly with owners. In summer, book well in advance. Expect CLP 30,000–60,000 per cabin per night.

Upscale / Heritage

There is very little to buy in Punta de Choros. A couple of small general stores sell basic groceries, water, sunscreen, and essentials. There are no souvenir shops, ATMs, or pharmacies. Bring cash from La Serena — card payment is not accepted anywhere in the village.

• La Serena (100 km south, ~2 hr by car) — the regional capital with colonial architecture, beaches, the Observatorio Astronómico, and the Elqui Valley pisco route.
• Isla Damas (by boat from the caleta, ~30 min) — day trip to the island for swimming, snorkelling, and wildlife.
• Bahía Inglesa (~250 km north, ~3 hr) — a spectacular turquoise-water beach village near Caldera, one of the best beaches in northern Chile.
• Observatorio Cerro Tololo / La Silla (~100 km southeast) — world-class astronomical observatories in the Elqui Valley; some offer guided tours (advance booking required).
• Fraser Mine area / Chañaral (~300 km north, ~3.5 hr) — gateway to Pan de Azúcar National Park, with more penguin colonies and desert-coast scenery.