Koh Rong Sanloem

Koh Rong Sanloem (also written Koh Rong Samloem or Koh Rung Sanloem) is the quieter sister of Koh Rong, lying about 25 km off the coast of Sihanoukville in the Gulf of Thailand. Where Koh Rong has gone all-in on backpacker nightlife, Sanloem has held onto its hammock-and-hush character: powdery white-sand beaches, glass-clear turquoise water, and a thickly forested interior that hides a French-colonial lighthouse on its highest ridge. The island is small enough to feel intimate but large enough that you can walk a jungle trail for an hour and meet only monkeys, hornbills, and the occasional monitor lizard.

Life on the island clusters around three very different bases. Saracen Bay on the east coast is the long, crescent-shaped main beach, lined with mid-range and upscale resorts facing the sunrise. M'Pai Bay (sometimes Mpey Bay) on the north is a working fishing village turned bohemian backpacker hub, with the cheapest food and the best snorkeling and diving on the islands. The west coast holds the wilder, prettier-at-sunset trio of Sunset Beach, Lazy Beach, and Military (Twilight) Beach, each home to just one or two small resorts. There is no road network and no ATM — once you arrive, you are on island time.

The dry season (November to April) is the time to come: calm seas, blue skies, and the easiest ferry crossings. The southwest monsoon (May to October) brings choppy water, intermittent ferry cancellations, and afternoon downpours, but also fewer people, lower rates, and the best chance to see bioluminescent plankton on moonless nights. Peak crowds and prices hit during Christmas/New Year and Khmer New Year (mid-April).

By Plane

The nearest airport is Sihanouk International Airport (KOS), about 18 km from the Sihanoukville ferry piers. A taxi to the pier runs around US$15-20 and takes 25-35 minutes; PassApp and Grab are both available in town. The larger Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH) is roughly 230 km away and connected to Sihanoukville by the new expressway (about 2.5 hours by bus or private car).

By Car / Road

You cannot drive to the island. Reach Sihanoukville first by road from Phnom Penh (≈230 km, 2.5-3 hr via the PP-Sihanoukville Expressway; toll around US$12 for cars). Reliable bus operators on the route include Giant Ibis, Virak Buntham, and Larryta, with fares from US$10-18. From Sihanoukville, ferries run from the GTVC pier near the Autonomous Sea Port to Saracen Bay, M'Pai Bay, and Sandy Beach.

• Cambodia Island Speedferry, GTVC, and Buva Sea all operate fast ferries; GTVC serves the most beaches.
• Ticket prices are government-fixed: US$25 round trip / US$14 one-way.
• Crossing time: 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on route and stops.
• A supply boat departs Pier 52 (Bora Pier) at 14:30 and accepts passengers at US$5 one way, stopping at Saracen Bay, M'Pai Bay, and Koh Rong. Travel time 2 hr 30 min to 4 hr 30 min — bring sun protection.

Buy ferry tickets at the pier on the day or the evening before through your guesthouse in Sihanoukville. Confirm your return time before boarding; schedules thin out in the rainy season.

There are no cars, tuk-tuks, or paved roads on Koh Rong Sanloem — getting around means walking or hiring a boat.

• On foot: From Saracen Bay you can follow signed jungle trails to Sunset Beach (≈45 min), Lazy Beach (≈30-40 min), Military Beach, and the stone-carved viewpoint. Trails are clear in dry season but muddy and leech-prone after rain — wear closed shoes, carry water, and bring a headtorch if you might be out past dusk. You cannot walk between Saracen Bay and M'Pai Bay; the trail crosses dense jungle and is not reliably marked.
• Taxi boats: Local long-tails shuttle between beaches and to M'Pai Bay on demand. Expect roughly US$10-25 per boat depending on distance and time of day; agree the price before stepping on. Most resorts can arrange one.
• Kayaks and SUPs: Widely rented in Saracen Bay and M'Pai Bay for around US$5-10 per hour — a pleasant way to reach quiet coves on calm days, but check sea conditions first.
• Scams to watch: Few outright scams, but ferry "upgrade" pitches in Sihanoukville for boats that don't exist are common — buy only at the official GTVC pier counters or through a known operator.

• Saracen Bay — The island's signature beach: a 2 km arc of fine white sand and shallow turquoise water on the east coast, perfect for a sunrise swim.

• M'Pai Bay village beach — A working fishing village with a long sandy beach on the north coast; the social heart of independent travel on the island.

• Clearwater Bay (Koh Sanloem) — A quieter cove west of M'Pai Bay village, reached on foot from the village.

• Sunset Beach — On the west side, framed by jungle-clad hills; one of the most photogenic sunsets in Cambodia.

• Lazy Beach — A small west-coast bay with one resort, soft sand, and almost no day-trippers.

• Military Beach (Twilight Beach) — The wildest of the western beaches, with great snorkeling just offshore.

• Sandy Beach — On the southern tip of the island, served by some ferries.

• The French Lighthouse — A colonial-era lighthouse on the island's highest ridge, with 360° views over both Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh Rong. Reach it on a sweaty 1.5-2 hr jungle trek from Saracen Bay; no entry fee, free access.

• Sunset Rock — A boulder-strewn headland near Saracen Bay; clamber over the rocks at golden hour for an unobstructed sunset over the open Gulf.

• Diving — Koh Rong Sanloem is the cradle of Cambodian diving and most operators on the islands now base themselves at M'Pai Bay, where the best sites lie just offshore. Two-tank fun dives typically run US$70-90; PADI/SSI Open Water courses around US$350-450.

  • Bubbles Up Divecenter, on the road in front of the M'Pai Bay arrival pier. ☏ +855 96 399 8886. 09:00-18:00. Small, friendly center run by experienced instructors, offering fun diving and SSI courses.

• Snorkeling at M'Pai Bay — The best shore snorkeling on the islands; coral reefs sit in shallow water just off the village beach. Most island snorkeling tours end up here.

• Bioluminescent plankton swim — On moonless nights, swim off M'Pai Bay or join an evening boat tour to see the water sparkle when you move through it. Best in the wet season (May-October).

• Jungle treks — Network of trails to Sunset Beach, Lazy Beach, the lighthouse, and (with a guide) toward M'Pai Bay. Expect lizards, macaques, hornbills, and white-bellied sea eagles. Carry water, repellent, and sturdy shoes.

• Kayaking and SUP — Hire a kayak or stand-up paddleboard from any beach to explore quiet coves on your own. Calm mornings are best.

• Boat tours — Half- and full-day trips combining snorkeling, fishing, sunset, BBQ on board, and a bioluminescence stop. Book through your guesthouse or directly with operators in M'Pai Bay.

• Adventure travel co, M'Pai Bay. ☏ +855 96 427 5133, [email protected]. Travel agency offering guided treks, boat tours, snorkeling tours, kayak rentals and guided kayak tours.

• Sunset at the Lighthouse / Sunset Rock — Time a trek so you're high up for golden hour, but bring a headtorch for the descent.

The food scene splits cleanly: M'Pai Bay has the cheapest and most varied eating, with Khmer family kitchens, backpacker cafés, and a couple of surprisingly good European restaurants; Saracen Bay is dominated by hotel restaurants with broader menus at resort prices. Expect mains of US$3-6 in M'Pai Bay village and US$6-12 on Saracen Bay. Vegetarian options are easy to find on most menus; strict vegan, halal, or gluten-free diners should ask in advance and stick to simpler dishes (rice, stir-fries, grilled fish).

Don't miss Cambodian classics like fish amok (coconut-curry steamed fish), lok lak (peppered beef), grilled whole reef fish with kampot pepper sauce, and fresh tropical fruit shakes.

• Seapony Café, M'Pai Bay — Easy-going café with strong coffee, breakfasts, and fresh juices; popular morning hangout.
• Bong's, M'Pai Bay — Long-running bar-restaurant on the village beach, good for casual Khmer-Western mains and sundowners.
• Flambée, M'Pai Bay — French-run restaurant turning out steaks, pastas, and proper desserts; a step up in price and quality.
• Saracen Bay resort restaurants — Most beachfront resorts (e.g., Sara Resort, The One) serve a mix of Khmer, Thai, and Western dishes; quality and price vary, but service-with-a-sea-view is the draw.

Cambodia's local lagers — Angkor, Cambodia, and Anchor — are everywhere at around US$1-2 a can. Also try Sombai, an infused rice liqueur (mango-chilli, anise-coffee) that some bars stock by the shot. Fresh coconut, lime sodas, and fruit shakes are excellent and cheap.

• Bong's, M'Pai Bay — Casual beach bar with cold beers, cocktails, and a fire most nights.
• 2 Ducks, M'Pai Bay — Friendly local-feel bar, popular with divers post-dive.
• The Hornbill, M'Pai Bay — Easygoing spot for cocktails and conversation.
• Saracen Bay — Most large resorts run their own beach bars; sunset cocktails are the move, with Sunset Rock a short walk away if you want to BYO.

Water safety: Do not drink the tap water. Bottled water is sold everywhere; many guesthouses now offer refill stations to cut plastic — bring a reusable bottle.

Budget

• Koalama (Chill Inn) — 1 Beach St, M'Pai Bay (M'Pai Bay main beach). ☏ +855 86 86 05 22, [email protected]. Beach bar and guesthouse in the traditional fishing village on the north coast, with dorm beds and basic private rooms; funky soundtrack in the bar. Dorms typically from around US$8-12.
• Beach House — Main beach, M'Pai Bay. ☏ +855 69 330 286. A simple beachfront hotel with AC and hot-water rooms, plus a food and drinks menu downstairs. Doubles typically from around US$25-35.

Mid-range

• Thmor Da Resort — M'Pai Bay village, top of the hill. ☏ +855 88 613 5555, [email protected]. Bungalow-style resort with great views over M'Pai Bay; the restaurant is one of the best sunset spots on the island. Doubles typically from around US$50-80.
• Samloem Laguna Resort — Koh Rong Sanloem Village, 5 min walk from Preah Sihanouk pier. ☏ +855 10 820 795, [email protected]. Check-in 14:00, check-out 12:00. Eco-friendly hotel with private beach, horse riding, tennis, strong WiFi, 24-hr electricity. From US$30.

Shopping is not why you come to Koh Rong Sanloem. Minimarts in Saracen Bay and M'Pai Bay stock the basics — soap, sunscreen (limited), mosquito repellent, instant noodles, beer, soft drinks, and snacks — at noticeably higher prices than the mainland.

There is no ATM on the island, so bring enough cash (US dollars are accepted everywhere alongside Cambodian riel). Many resorts and dive shops accept credit cards and will do cash withdrawals against a card, usually for a 5-8% fee.

A few stalls in M'Pai Bay sell handmade jewellery, sarongs, and tie-dye clothing from travelling artisans; prices are fixed-ish, with mild bargaining acceptable for multiple items. Stock up on prescription medication, electronics, and reef-safe sunscreen before you board the ferry.

• Koh Rong (≈30 min by speedferry) — The bigger, livelier sister island; head to Long Set Beach for a day or to Koh Touch for nightlife.
• Sihanoukville (≈30-60 min by speedferry) — Cambodia's main coastal city and your re-entry point; transformed by Chinese investment and best treated as a transit hub.
• Kampot (≈3 hr by road from Sihanoukville) — Sleepy riverside town famous for its pepper plantations, colonial shophouses, and Bokor Hill Station day trips.
• Kep (≈3.5 hr by road from Sihanoukville) — Tiny seaside town renowned for its crab market and laid-back beach scene; an easy add-on to Kampot.
• Ream National Park (≈30 min by road from Sihanoukville) — Coastal park with mangroves, jungle walks, and boat tours to spot dolphins and birds.
• Phnom Penh (≈2.5-3 hr by expressway from Sihanoukville) — Cambodia's capital, with the Royal Palace, National Museum, and the sobering Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek memorials.