Ubatuba

Ubatuba is a municipality strung along the northern coast of São Paulo state, right where it meets neighbouring Rio de Janeiro state. Predominantly cloaked in exuberant Atlantic rainforest (Mata Atlântica), it counts more than 80 non-contiguous beaches scattered across roughly 100 km of coastline — from world-class surf breaks to calm family coves, some so remote they sit completely deserted in the off-season. In 2020 the municipality was home to around 92,000 people, but its population swells dramatically in summer. This is, above all, a place where forest tumbles straight down to the sea.

Because Ubatuba sits almost exactly midway between São Paulo and Rio yet is genuinely far from both (about three hours' drive from the capital), it functions as a holiday destination rather than a weekend escape. During summer vacation (January–February) and major holidays, the town and the central beaches are packed and the Rio–Santos highway clogs with traffic. The rest of the year — especially weekdays — the place empties out: blissfully tranquil if you crave solitude, but quieter in the centre, with many shops, kiosks and restaurants shuttered, so plan your meals (and a car) accordingly.

On the climate, Paulistas affectionately call the town "Ubachuva" (chuva means rain), partly because its peak season — December to March — coincides with the hot, wet summer. Winter (June–August) brings far less rain but cooler air, with averages dipping below 20°C; sunshine is generous year-round. The compact, flat city centre (Centro and the Itaguá beachfront) holds most services, while the beaches and attractions spread north and south along the coast for tens of kilometres in each direction.

Tourist information: Ubatuba Tourist Information, ☏ +55 12 3833-9123 — also the place to arrange guides for harder trails.

By Plane

Ubatuba Airport / Gastão Madeira (UBT) sits near the city centre, but its short runway only handles helicopters, single-engine and small twin-engine aircraft — there are no scheduled commercial flights, though charters can be arranged from fields such as Campo de Marte in São Paulo.

For a scheduled flight, the São Paulo airports are the most convenient gateway, with further connections via Rio de Janeiro. From São Paulo–Guarulhos International (GRU), Expresso Rodoviário Litorânea runs a bus to Caraguatatuba, a neighbouring city about 43 km from Ubatuba. There are four daily departures from the airport — 07:00, 11:00, 16:30 and 20:00 — taking roughly 3 hours for about R$35 per person; from Caraguatatuba, continue by local bus or car.

By Car / Road

By car from São Paulo or São José dos Campos, take the Tamoios highway (SP-099) and then the Rio–Santos (BR-101), or the Osvaldo Cruz road (SP-099). The drive from São Paulo to central Ubatuba takes about 3 hours in good conditions — and considerably longer during holidays. A car is the single most useful thing to have here (see Get Around).

By bus, the Rodoviária de São José on Avenida Professor Thomáz Galhardo is the hub. Sample connections (verify current times locally):

• Rio de Janeiro — 11:00 and 23:59 (Rio→Ubatuba buses also run 08:30 and 23:00, ~R$100)
• Paraty — 09:50 and 17:00 (direct buses from Paraty around R$15)
• São Paulo — roughly hourly, 05:00 to 19:00; from the capital's Terminal Tietê many services route via São Sebastião (gateway to Ilhabela), R$70–80
• Taubaté/Guaratinguetá — 08:30 and 18:10
• São José dos Campos — three buses per day

With ~100 km of coast, a rented or private car is highly recommended if you intend to explore beaches away from the centre — many outlying areas have no nearby restaurant or even a supermarket, particularly in low season. Cars can be rented in town.

Public buses are run by Verdebus. Some lines reach the more remote beaches, but they are infrequent and may drop you at a nearby village rather than the beach itself — confirm routes and times before relying on them.

Cycling is popular with locals, and the flat city centre has a decent network of cycleways, making it easy and pleasant. Beyond the centre it's tougher: because the beaches aren't contiguous, getting between them means riding the shoulder of the Rio–Santos highway — done by locals but not especially safe — and the terrain is notably hilly.

Ride-hailing and taxis operate in the centre but thin out toward distant beaches; don't count on easily catching a return ride from far-flung spots after dark.

Nature & conservation

• Prumirim Waterfall (Cachoeira do Prumirim) — Rio–Santos (BR-101), about 19 km north of the centre near the Prumirim bridge (watch for "Cachoeira do Prumirim" signs). A sequence of falls set in lush rainforest, reached by a short trail; swimming is possible but take care, especially with children.
• Serra do Mar State Park, Núcleo Picinguaba — about 40 km east of downtown on BR-101; this coastal unit of the Serra do Mar protected area runs contiguous with the Serra da Bocaina National Park across the Rio state line.
• Projeto Tamar — Praia do Itaguá. The local outpost of Brazil's flagship sea-turtle conservation project, where you can see the turtles up close.
• Ubatuba Aquarium (Aquário de Ubatuba) — a family-friendly aquarium in the centre showcasing regional marine life.

Museums

• Caiçara Museum (Museu Caiçara) — exhibits the crafts and daily life of the traditional caiçara coast-dwelling fishing communities.
• Automobile Museum (Museu do Automóvel) — Rua Tapajós 65, Itaguá, ☏ +55 12 3832-1265. Note: reported temporarily closed (as of 2023) — check before visiting.

Beaches (a selection of the 80-plus):

• Grande — ~4 km south of centre; the most popular in town, over 2 km of wide sand with strong, surf-worthy waves, a young crowd and plenty of kiosks.

• Itamambuca — access via a side street at Km 34 of BR-101, ~15 km north; a famous surf beach that hosts international competitions, with preserved natural surroundings where the Itamambuca river meets the sea.

• Itaguá — the central beach; not great for bathing but lovely for a morning walk or cycle and an evening snack or drink.

• Lázaro — ~15 km south; gorgeous surroundings and calm waters, a favourite with families.

• Toninhas — ~8 km south; an "urban" beach that doesn't feel urban, fringed by trees, with a short trail over to Praia Grande.

• Vermelha do Norte — ~7 km north; striking thick red sand, strong surf waves and a small children's water park.

• Félix — ~15 km north; preserved natural setting popular with surfers (slightly quieter than Itamambuca).

• Prumirim — ~18 km north; a beautiful beach with views of Prumirim island (popular with divers, reachable by boat) where the Prumirim river enters the sea.

• Ubatumirim — ~28 km north; a long, broad, flat beach ideal for walking and jogging, easily reached by car and offering camping facilities.

• Deserted coves — Brava, Almada and Cedro are reached on foot via forest tracks and reward the effort with seclusion; Enseada, Maranduba, Perequê, Saco da Ribeira, Sununga and Vermelha round out the choices.

• Surfing — the headline activity. Hit Itamambuca, Félix and Vermelha do Norte among many breaks; Itamambuca in particular draws international contests.

• Scuba diving and boat trips — dive or snorkel around the Anchieta, Vitória and Prumirim islands; schooner rides to Ilha Anchieta (a state park) leave from the Saco da Ribeira marina area.

• Trekking and hiking — dozens of forest trails thread the Atlantic rainforest to hidden beaches, waterfalls and even indigenous villages.

• Climb Corcovado — not Rio's statue-topped peak, but Ubatuba's own Corcovado, reached by a trail from Praia Dura for a fine (Christ-free) panorama. The path is poorly signposted and hard to follow, so arrange a guide through the tourist information centre.

• Birdwatching — the rainforest backdrop makes Ubatuba a strong spot for it, often combined with trail walks.

Ubatuba's table leans hard on the sea and the caiçara tradition. Local specialities include locally-harvested mussels, peixe azul marinho (blue marine fish), and pirão de banana verde, a dish of manioc flour and green bananas. Note that many places close out of season — in low season, stick near the centre to be sure of a meal.

Budget

• Restaurante Casa do Marmitex — R. Dr. Esteves da Silva, 322; honest, filling daily plates.
• Tempero Manero — Rua Dona Maria Alves, 548.
• Ponto Da Esfiha — R. Cunhambebe, 423; for esfihas and quick bites.
• Bar & Restaurante Mar Azul — Av. Gov. Abreu Sodré, 197.
• Restaurante e Pizzaria Maresia — Av. Gov. Abreu Sodré, 633.

Mid-range

• Perequim Restaurante e Pizzaria — Rua Guarani 385, ☏ +55 12 3832-1354; pasta and pizza with more than 60 beers and 100 wines on the list.
• Rei do Peixe — Rua Guarani 480, Itaguá, ☏ +55 12 3832-3272; seafood specialist, with large portions designed to share between two.

Splurge

• Picanha na Tábua — Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 562; for grilled picanha served on the board.

Seafood and pizza dominate, so pescatarians are well served; strict vegetarian, vegan, halal and gluten-free options are limited, so ask ahead at smaller kitchens.

The caipirinha is the natural drink of choice, and the Itaguá beachfront is the place to nurse one as the evening crowd gathers. A few spots worth knowing:

• Anchieta Café — Av. Tamoios, 64, ☏ +55 12 3833-4232; relaxed café-bar in the centre.
• Areia Summer House — Rodovia Rio Santos, km 101, Praia Vermelha do Norte, ☏ +55 12 3836-2261; beachside drinks with a summery feel.
• Coyote Bar — R. Coronel Domiciano 74, Centro, ☏ +55 12 3832-4856; open Thursday–Saturday from 18:00.
• Friends Lounge and Club — a reliable spot for a well-made caipirinha.
• 180° (180 Graus) — Félix Guisard 11, Prainha, ☏ +55 12 3832-6991; a nightclub set in an old Matarazzo family mansion, with three dance floors, six bars, a pizza restaurant and a snack bar, hosting Brazilian and international DJs for a mostly twenty-something crowd. Entry up to about R$30 depending on the event.

Water safety: municipal tap water in Brazil is treated, but most travellers stick to filtered or bottled water to be safe, especially in beachside and rural lodgings.

Budget

Mid-range

• Hotel Coquille — Rua Guarapirá, 405, Praia Grande (about 250 m from the beach), ☏ +55 12 3835-1611, [email protected]. Check-in 14:00, check-out 12:00; a long-running hotel set on a quiet dead-end street near Praia Grande.

Upscale / heritage

For souvenirs and beachwear, browse the tourist-oriented shops along Rua Guarani and the northern stretch of R. Leovegildo Dias de Oliveira, fronting Itaguá beach — a lively zone of shops, restaurants, bars and seafront kiosks that buzzes on high-season and holiday evenings.

For everyday goods and services, the city's "real" commercial spine is Avenida Thomás Galhardo, an area undergoing revitalisation to broaden its appeal to locals and visitors alike. Look out for caiçara handicrafts as a regional keepsake. Prices in shops are generally fixed; light haggling is more at home in markets and with informal beach vendors.

• Paraty (RJ) — ~70 km / ~1.5 hr north; a beautifully preserved colonial port town of cobbled streets, with direct buses from Ubatuba (~R$15).
• Ilha Anchieta (Anchieta Island) — a short schooner ride from Saco da Ribeira; a state park of beaches, trails and a historic former prison.
• Caraguatatuba — ~43 km south; the larger neighbouring coastal city and a regional transport link (and GRU airport-bus terminus).
• São Sebastião & Ilhabela — ~90 km south plus a ferry; the gateway and the lush island of Ilhabela, famed for beaches and waterfalls.
• São Paulo — ~230 km / ~3 hr; Brazil's vast cultural and gastronomic capital, and the main air gateway.
• Rio de Janeiro — ~300 km up the coast; the Marvellous City, with direct overnight and daytime buses.