Boa Vista

Boa Vista is the capital of Roraima, Brazil's northernmost state, set on the right bank of the Rio Branco in the far north of the Amazon basin. With a population of around 437,000 (2021), it is the only Brazilian state capital located entirely north of the equator. For a city this size it feels remarkably quiet and orderly: although it is more than a century old, the centre was laid out in a deliberate fan-shaped plan radiating from the Praça do Centro Cívico, giving it the wide avenues and traffic circles of a planned capital. Historical landmarks are few and far between, and the strong presence of evangelical churches lends the city a distinctly devout atmosphere.

Most foreign travellers experience Boa Vista in transit — it sits on the overland route between Manaus to the south and Venezuela to the north, and is also the Brazilian gateway toward Guyana to the east. That said, the riverfront and the surrounding savanna landscape (Roraima's lavrado, a tropical grassland unusual for Amazonia) give the city a character of its own.

The climate is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures typically in the low-to-mid 30s °C. Roraima's seasons are reversed relative to most of Brazil: the wet season runs roughly April–September and the drier months (October–March) are the best time to visit. The dry season is also when the Rio Branco drops to expose sandy river beaches across from the city.

By Plane

The city is served by Boa Vista International Airport (BVB), also known as Atlas Brasil Cantanhede International Airport, a short distance northwest of the centre. LATAM and Gol fly to major Brazilian airports, mostly routing via Manaus and/or Brasília. The locally based carrier Meta serves more regional destinations and also crosses the borders into Guyana and Suriname. A cab from the airport to the centre is about a 10-minute ride at a fixed fare of R$30.

By Car / Road

Boa Vista is connected to the rest of Brazil almost entirely by the BR-174 highway running south to Manaus (about 11 hours by road via Presidente Figueiredo), and northward toward the Venezuelan border. The BR-401 runs east toward Bonfim and the Guyana border.

By bus:

• Manaus — 3 daily departures with Eucatur via Presidente Figueiredo (about 11 hours, R$95). The journey includes an en-route passport check by the Federal Police.
• Bonfim / Guyana border — six daily buses. If you are crossing into Guyana, stay on the bus; it continues past Bonfim to the border itself.
• Venezuela — buses run deep into Venezuela; see Go Next for the Pacaraima border crossing.

Most central sights are within walking distance of the downtown hotels. Local buses pass through the terminal urbano in the centre and are the cheapest way to get around. Taxis marked lotação are shared cabs — a bit pricier than buses but faster, and they can deviate from their route for an extra fee. Regular metered cabs are also available, though drivers may insist on fixed prices for the run to the bus station or airport. As elsewhere in Brazil, agree on the fare or confirm the meter is running before setting off.

• Orla Taumanan — the landscaped riverfront promenade along the Rio Branco, just down from the centre. The city's main public gathering place and the natural starting point for sunset cruises and walks; lively on weekend evenings.

• Praça do Centro Cívico — the civic square at the hub of the city's fan-shaped plan, ringed by government buildings; useful for orienting yourself in the planned centre.

• Ruins of Fort São Joaquim (Forte São Joaquim) — 32 km from the city by river or 52 km by road via the BR-401, at the confluence of the Uraricoera and Branco rivers. Built in 1775, only the foundations and some walls survive today. A worthwhile excursion for those interested in the region's colonial frontier history.

• River beaches — when the Rio Branco is low (dry season), a string of sandy beaches appears on the far bank, a couple with shacks serving drinks and snacks. A boat ride across costs about R$2.50.

• Sunset cruises on the Rio Branco depart from Orla Taumanan at 17:00. Book ahead (tel. 9971 5454).

• Cross to the river beaches in the dry season for a swim and a drink at the riverside shacks — a cheap, very local way to spend an afternoon.

• Live music on the riverfront — on weekend evenings Orla Taumanan fills with stalls, plastic tables and a makeshift stage with live music.

• Forró and pagode nights — weekend dancing is part of local nightlife (see the Drink section).

• Day trip to Fort São Joaquim — combine the colonial ruins with the scenery of the river confluence.

The food is standard hearty Brazilian fare — rice, beans, grilled meats and river fish — with the occasional surprise. Set lunches (prato feito) are the best value.

• Cocktail Bar e Restaurante (budget) — corner of Rua Araújo Filho and Avenida Getúlio Vargas. Regular Brazilian dishes spiced up by the Indian owner; set lunch R$7. A rare spot for those wanting something beyond the local norm.
• Meu Cantinho (mid-range) — just up from Orla Taumanan, set at the founding spot of the city. Open for lunch until midnight; mains for two around R$35.
• Riverside shacks at Orla Taumanan (budget) — snacks and drinks on weekend evenings amid live music.

Cold beer is the social glue here, with weekend nights given over to forró and pagode. Tap water is best avoided; stick to bottled or filtered water.

• Orla Taumanan — riverfront stalls with plastic tables around a makeshift live-music stage; busiest on weekend evenings.
• Sullivan — about R$20 by taxi from the centre. Forró on weekend nights; entrance R$10, beer can R$3.
• SINPOL — right behind the bus station. Pagode once a week; free entrance, large beer R$4.
• Edi Lanches — corner of Av. Gen. Ataíde Teive and R. Cristóvão Coelho (bus stop nearby). Open daily, usually until 03:00 if there are enough customers; drinking with the locals, two pool tables at R$1 a game. Skol litre R$7, Brahma litre R$6, snacks and small dishes available. (updated Aug 2016)

Hotels are spread out between the centre and the bus station.

Budget

• Hotel Ideal — corner of Rua Araújo Filho and Rua Nossa Senhora Consolata, ☏ +55 95 3224-6342. Basic and clean. Single with air-con R$50, double R$70.

Mid-range

Upscale / heritage

Shopping is modest and practical rather than tourist-oriented. Note local hours: stores generally close early on Saturday and stay shut on Sunday, so plan purchases for weekdays. The central streets around the terminal urbano hold the everyday shops; for regional flavour, look for products of the lavrado and Amazon — locally sold cashews, regional fish, and indigenous crafts where available. Bargaining is not the norm in fixed-price stores.

• Pacaraima (Venezuela border) — one morning bus at 07:00 from Terminal Internacional for R$22, or a shared taxi (R$30–35 per person, leaving from Terminal Caimbé roughly 07:00–10:00). The crossing point into Venezuela.
• Bonfim / Lethem (Guyana border) — six daily buses east on the BR-401; the gateway to Guyana.
• Manaus — about 11 hours south by bus on the BR-174; the great Amazon metropolis and the main connection to the rest of Brazil.
• Presidente Figueiredo — en route toward Manaus; known for its waterfalls and caves, a popular nature stop.
• Fort São Joaquim — 52 km by road (or 32 km by river); colonial ruins at the meeting of the Uraricoera and Branco rivers.