Exmouth

Exmouth was established in 1967 to support the nearby Harold E. Holt Naval Communication Station, whose enormous radio towers still dominate the cape's skyline. The naval origin gives the town its grid layout and slightly utilitarian feel, but visitors come for what lies just offshore: Ningaloo Reef runs for hundreds of kilometres along this coast and, uniquely, comes within easy snorkelling distance of the shore, so you can swim straight off the beach onto living coral.

The reef's headline draw is the seasonal aggregation of whale sharks — the world's largest fish — which gather here from roughly March to August/September and can be swum with on licensed tours. The same waters host manta rays, humpback whales (winter migration), turtles, dugongs and abundant reef fish. Inland, Cape Range National Park offers deep gorges, arid ranges and the famous Turquoise Bay drift snorkel. The climate is hot and dry year-round; it can be very hot in summer, and the coast is occasionally affected by cyclones in the wet season (roughly Dec–Apr). The cooler, dry April–October window is the prime visiting season and coincides with the marine highlights.

By Plane

Learmonth Airport (LEA), about 35 km south of town, has regular flights to and from Perth.

By Car / Road

Exmouth is a long drive — roughly 1,250 km (around 13–15 hours) north of Perth via Highway 1, turning off onto the North West Coastal Highway and then the road out to the cape. Many travellers break the journey over two or more days, stopping at Geraldton, Carnarvon or Coral Bay. Integrity Coach Lines runs the Perth–north coastal route serving the region.

A vehicle is essentially necessary — the beaches, gorges and snorkelling spots of Cape Range National Park are spread along the cape, well outside the town. Hire cars are available and a 4WD is useful for some tracks. The town itself is small and walkable; tour operators provide transport to and from the reef for whale-shark, dive and snorkel trips.

• Ningaloo Reef — The World Heritage fringing reef; coral and fish are accessible directly from shore at many points.

• Cape Range National Park — Limestone ranges, deep gorges (Yardie Creek, Mandu Mandu) and a string of pristine beaches along the cape's west side.

• Turquoise Bay — A celebrated drift-snorkel beach where the current carries you gently over coral and fish.

• Vlamingh Head Lighthouse — A 1912 lighthouse on the cape with sweeping coastal views, good for sunset and whale watching.

• Harold E. Holt Naval Communication Station towers — The towering Cold War–era VLF antenna array that gave rise to the town.

• Swim with whale sharks — The signature experience, on licensed tours roughly March–September.

• Snorkel Ningaloo from the shore at Turquoise Bay, Lakeside, Oyster Stacks and other Cape Range beaches.

• Dive the reef and the famous Navy Pier (one of the world's best shore/jetty dives) and Muiron Islands.

• Swim with manta rays, seasonal humpback whales, and watch nesting/hatching turtles in summer.

• Cruise Yardie Creek Gorge or hike the gorges of Cape Range National Park.

Dining centres on fresh local seafood — prawns, fish and crab — at a handful of cafés, pubs and casual restaurants in town and at the Exmouth Marina.

The town pub and marina venues are the main spots for a drink, with sunset views over the water at the marina. Tap water is safe; carry plenty of water for any trip into Cape Range, where it is hot and facilities are limited.

• Budget: Backpacker hostels and caravan/camping parks operate in town, plus basic campgrounds within Cape Range National Park (book ahead).
• Mid-range: Motels and holiday-apartment complexes serve the town and marina.
• Upscale: Eco-resorts and safari-style tented camps operate along the Ningaloo coast (some near Coral Bay / Cape Range).

Exmouth's small town centre has a supermarket, general stores, dive shops and tour-booking outlets; provisions are best stocked up here before heading into the national park.

• Coral Bay — about 1.5 hours south; a tiny resort village on the southern end of Ningaloo Reef with shore snorkelling.
• Cape Range National Park — adjacent to town; gorges, beaches and Turquoise Bay.
• Carnarvon — about 4 hours south; fruit-growing town and gateway between Exmouth and Shark Bay.
• Shark Bay / Monkey Mia — further south; World Heritage bay famous for dolphins and stromatolites.