Susques

Susques is a high-altitude Andean settlement located at 3,896 meters above sea level in the dry Puna tablelands of western Jujuy Province, Argentina. Situated along a shallow ravine surrounded by wind-eroded sandstone hills, the town serves as the administrative seat of the Susques Department and the final major Argentine refueling and supply stop on Ruta Nacional 52 before the Paso de Jama border crossing into northern Chile. Its single-story adobe houses, unpaved streets, and thatched roofs reflect indigenous Atacameño and Kolla pastoral building styles developed for the high desert environment.

The town originated as a pre-Hispanic pastoral settlement and developed into a colonial parish during the late 16th century under Spanish administration. It preserves one of the oldest colonial-era churches in northwest Argentina, consecrated in 1598. Following South American border arbitrations in 1899, the area was administered as part of the National Territory of Los Andes until that territory was dissolved in 1943, when Susques was incorporated into Jujuy Province. Today, the local economy centers on llama and sheep pastoralism, traditional wool weaving, sodium borate extraction, and international highway services.

The climate is cold and arid (Köppen BWk), marked by intense solar radiation, low humidity, and sharp temperature swings between day and night. Daily temperature swings frequently exceed 20°C. Winters are dry and frigid, while summer months bring warmer afternoon temperatures alongside occasional convective rain showers. Travelers visiting Susques must account for the high elevation by ascending gradually and drinking ample water to mitigate altitude sickness (apunamiento).

By Air

No commercial air service operates in Susques. The nearest commercial airport is Gobernador Horacio Guzmán International Airport (IATA: JUJ), located 235 km east near San Salvador de Jujuy (3.5 to 4 hours by road). Aerolíneas Argentinas, Flybondi, and JetSmart run multiple daily direct flights to JUJ from Buenos Aires Aeroparque (AEP), Buenos Aires Ezeiza (EZE), and Córdoba (COR), with flight times of approximately 2 hours 15 minutes from Buenos Aires. Travelers arriving by air can rent a vehicle at the airport or take a taxi to the San Salvador de Jujuy bus terminal to board an onward bus. A secondary alternative is Martín Miguel de Güemes International Airport (IATA: SLA) in Salta, located 290 km southeast (4.5 hours by road).

By Bus

Regional bus operator Travil S.A.S. (Line 23) runs scheduled daily buses connecting the Terminal de Ómnibus de San Salvador de Jujuy (General Manuel Eduardo Arias) with Susques.

• Frequency & Schedule: Departures from San Salvador de Jujuy leave daily at 14:00, 15:00, 17:00, and 22:00. Return buses from Susques to Jujuy depart at 02:00, 04:00, and 13:00.
• Journey Time: Approximately 3 hours 30 minutes to 4 hours via Purmamarca.
• Fare: AR$ 22,000–26,000 (~$20–24 USD) one way. Tickets should be purchased in advance at the Travil ticket window at the Jujuy bus terminal.

Andes Bus also operates regional departures on select weekdays (typically Wednesday and Friday afternoons) between Jujuy and Susques.

Long-distance international buses running between Salta/Jujuy and San Pedro de Atacama in Chile (operated by Pullman Bus and Andesmar / Gemini) travel along RN 52 past Susques. Confirm ticket availability and whether the driver permits boarding or alighting at the Susques YPF service station prior to booking.

By Car

Susques sits directly on paved Ruta Nacional 52 (RN 52), an international highway linking Argentina and Chile.

• From San Salvador de Jujuy (205 km, 3 to 3.5 hours): Drive north on RN 9 through the Quebrada de Humahuaca to the junction at Purmamarca (65 km). Turn west onto RN 52, which ascends the switchbacks of the Cuesta de Lipán to the pass at Altos del Morado (4,170 m), crosses the flat expanse of Salinas Grandes, and continues west directly into Susques.
• From Salta (290 km, 4.5 hours): Take RN 9 north to San Salvador de Jujuy and continue west via Purmamarca on RN 52. Alternatively, drivers with high-clearance vehicles can take RN 51 through Campo Quijano and San Antonio de los Cobres, then head north on unpaved sections of RN 40 to reach Susques (310 km, 6 hours).
• From San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (280 km, 4 hours): Follow Chilean Route 27 eastward over the Andes to the Paso de Jama border post (4,200 m), where the road becomes RN 52 in Argentina and continues 155 km east to Susques.

A full-service YPF gas station operates on RN 52 at the entrance of Susques; fuel up here, as service stations are absent along the 155 km stretch westward to the Chilean border.

By Train

No train service operates to Susques. The historic Belgrano rail network in this sector is inactive for regular passenger transport. The nearest rail activity is the tourist-oriented Tren a las Nubes, which runs a short excursion loop from San Antonio de los Cobres (130 km south) to the Polvorilla Viaduct.

The layout of Susques consists of a grid of unpaved streets spanning roughly ten blocks. All central points of interest, including the historic church, town hall, grocery shops, comedores, and guesthouses, are reachable on foot in less than ten minutes.

For destinations outside the town center:

• Remises (Private Hire Cars): Local drivers operating pickup trucks and passenger cars can be hired for round-trip excursions to Barrancas (Abdón Castro Tolay), Salinas Grandes, or Termas de Tuzgle. Inquire at your accommodation or at the YPF service station. Fares range from AR$ 15,000 to AR$ 40,000 ($14–37 USD) depending on distance and waiting time.
• Private Vehicle / 4WD: While RN 52 is fully paved, side routes such as RN 40 south toward San Antonio de los Cobres and provincial gravel tracks require a high-clearance vehicle or 4WD, especially after summer rains.
• Rideshare Apps: Uber, Cabify, and other app-based transport services do not operate in Susques.

• Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Belén — Consecrated in 1598 and expanded during the 17th century, this colonial church is the oldest standing religious building in Jujuy Province and a designated National Historic Monument. The structure features thick adobe walls, an exterior bell tower, and a ceiling constructed from cardón cactus wood slats bound together with raw llama-leather thongs. The interior houses 18th-century religious paintings of regional birds and flora, wooden altarpieces, and a historic keyboard organ designed to be played from a kneeling position. Entry: Free (cash donations appreciated).

• Cañón de Susques (Quebrada del Taire) — A steep sandstone canyon cutting into the high plateau just southeast of the village. The canyon walls rise up to 50 meters high, showing distinct sedimentary strata carved by wind and seasonal runoff, with native tola shrubs and grazing herds of vicuñas along the rims. Entry: Free.

• Salinas Grandes — A 212-square-kilometer salt flat located 65 km east of Susques on RN 52 at an elevation of 3,450 meters. Travelers can view the white salt crust, rectangular evaporation pools (piletones), and salt-block sculptures. Entry: Free along the highway viewpoints; guided vehicle access to the inner salt pools with the local indigenous cooperative costs AR$ 8,000–12,000 ($7–11 USD) per vehicle.

• Barrancas Rock Art & Archaeological Interpretation Center (Abdón Castro Tolay) — Located 45 km northeast via RP 75, this Andean village lies at the base of sheer 50-meter cliffs containing pre-Hispanic rock paintings and petroglyphs created by ancient camelid herders. The local interpretation center provides exhibits on regional prehistory and guided tours to the cliff panels. Entry: AR$ 3,000 ($2.80 USD).

• Volcán Tuzgle and Termas de Tuzgle — Located 45 km south of Susques along RN 40. Volcán Tuzgle is a prominent 5,486-meter dormant stratovolcano. Near its eastern base, natural thermal sulfur springs flow into outdoor thermal streams and rustic soaking pools amidst highland peat bogs (vegas). Entry: Free.

• Paso de Jama High-Altitude Corridor — The 155 km paved route west along RN 52 toward the Chilean border climbs across the Atacama Plateau past 4,200 meters, traversing volcanic landscapes, frozen high-altitude wetlands, and roadside habitats frequented by wild vicuñas, rheas (suri), and Andean mountain birds. Entry: Free.

• Trek the Susques Canyons — Walk the trails leading from the village into the Quebrada de Susques and surrounding dry gorges to examine volcanic tuff formations, caves, and native desert flora.

• Climb Volcán Tuzgle — Experienced, acclimatized mountaineers can undertake a non-technical high-altitude ascent of Volcán Tuzgle (5,486 m). The climb starts from high-clearance vehicle tracks near the base and takes 6 to 8 hours round-trip; hire a local guide in Susques or San Antonio de los Cobres.

• Soak in the Tuzgle Thermal Springs — Bathe in the mineral-rich thermal waters located at the foot of the Tuzgle volcano, where temperatures reach up to 40°C (104°F) in natural runoff pools.

• Photograph Wildlife at Laguna de Guayatayoc — Located 80 km east off RN 52, this shallow saline lake attracts large flocks of Andean, James's, and Chilean flamingos during spring and summer feeding seasons.

• Purchase Local Hand-Spun Wool Textiles — Visit local family weaving workshops in Susques to watch artisans spin and weave llama and sheep wool into ponchos, blankets (picotes), socks, and gloves using hand looms and natural plant dyes.

Dining in Susques centers on hearty Andean dishes made to combat the high altitude and freezing evening temperatures. Llama meat, corn, quinoa, and potatoes are primary staples.

• Comedor Amancay (Avenida San Martín) — A traditional village eatery serving generous portions of regional cuisine. Specialties include milanesa de llama (breaded llama cutlet), cazuela de llama (slow-simmered llama stew with Andean potatoes), locro, and freshly baked beef empanadas. Price tier: Budget (AR$ 7,000–12,000 / $6.50–11 USD).
• Restaurante Hotel Pastos Chicos (Ruta Nacional 52, Km 140) — The most established dining room in town, situated inside the main hotel along the highway. Offers an extensive menu including lomo de llama al disco (pan-seared llama tenderloin with vegetables), roasted goat (cabrito), quinoa soups, pasta dishes, and northwestern Argentine wines. Price tier: Mid-range (AR$ 15,000–26,000 / $14–24 USD).
• Comedor El Milagro (Avenida Jujuy) — A modest, family-operated dining room popular with truck drivers and regional travelers. Serves a changing daily set menu (menú del día) featuring beef milanesas, chicken stew, tamales, and noodle broth. Price tier: Budget (AR$ 6,000–10,000 / $5.50–9 USD).
• Comedor Moro Resto (Central Susques) — An unpretentious local spot known for grilled llama steaks, homemade french fries, Andean corn stews, and hot soups. Price tier: Budget (AR$ 7,000–13,000 / $6.50–12 USD).
• Comedor La Vicuñita (Calle San Martín) — Simple home-style kitchen serving traditional humitas en chala (steamed corn cakes in husk), knife-cut beef empanadas, and hot herbal infusions including coca tea. Price tier: Budget (AR$ 6,000–11,000 / $5.50–10 USD).

Accommodations in Susques are functional and oriented toward transit travelers and high-altitude adventurers. Advanced reservations are recommended during July winter holidays and long holiday weekends.

• Budget:
  • Hospedaje El Carmen (Calle San Martín) — Basic family-run guesthouse near the main church offering simple private rooms with shared or private bathrooms, heavy blankets, and hot water showers. Nightly rates: AR$ 20,000–32,000 ($18–30 USD).
  • Hostería La Vicuñita (Calle San Martín) — Small town inn with clean private bedrooms, en-suite bathrooms, electric heating, and basic breakfast. Nightly rates: AR$ 26,000–40,000 ($24–37 USD).
• Mid-range:
  • Hotel Pastos Chicos (RN 52, Km 140) — The primary full-service hotel in Susques, constructed with local stone and adobe. Features heated rooms with private bathrooms, 24-hour hot water, Wi-Fi, an on-site restaurant, covered parking, and breakfast buffet. Nightly rates: AR$ 90,000–135,000 ($82–125 USD).
  • Hostal Don Quiterio (Abdón Castro Tolay / Barrancas, 45 km northeast of Susques) — Cozy rural guesthouse featuring traditional stone architecture, private rooms with heating, home-cooked regional meals, and direct access to local rock art sites. Nightly rates: AR$ 45,000–65,000 ($41–60 USD).
• Upscale:
  • No luxury hotels exist in Susques. Travelers seeking high-end accommodations can stay at Pristine Salinas Grandes Luxury Camp (located on the salt flats 65 km east along RN 52), which offers heated luxury geodesic dome suites with gourmet dining and guided salt-flat excursions from $600–1,000 USD per night. Alternatively, upscale boutique hotels are located in Purmamarca (135 km east), such as Hotel El Manantial del Silencio (rates AR$ 240,000–450,000 / $220–410 USD per night).

• Salinas Grandes (65 km east via RN 52, 45 minutes) — A vast 212 km² expanse of white salt flats at 3,450 meters elevation, featuring turquoise mining pools and artisanal salt craft stalls.
• Purmamarca (135 km east via RN 52, 2 hours) — A scenic Andean village situated at the base of the Seven Colors Hill (Cerro de los Siete Colores), offering artisan markets, boutique hotels, and regional restaurants.
• San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (280 km west via RN 52 and Chilean Route 27, 4 hours) — A premier desert travel hub across the high-altitude Paso de Jama border pass, providing access to geysers, salt lakes, and the Moon Valley.
• Barrancas / Abdón Castro Tolay (45 km northeast via RP 75, 1 hour) — An authentic Puna community situated beneath towering sandstone cliffs containing prehistoric petroglyphs and an archaeological museum.
• San Antonio de los Cobres (130 km south via RN 40, 3.5 hours) — A high-altitude mining town in Salta Province and the base of the famous Tren a las Nubes railway viaduct at La Polvorilla.